Yes. That is one of the first things tried.

I'll check that out. Thanks for the suggestion!

 

Hmmm... well it certainly isn't defaulting from crank to cam position. You may have just saved me $65 and more frustration.

 

Where you getting injector pulses with the noid lamp? If so the CPS must be OK.
Are you getting +12 at the coils? I know you are at the relay.

 

I get a single pulse when cranking (noid light comes on, then off).

I am getting 0V at the coils.

 

The exciter ring ohms out at 33.4-33.4 fluctuating (cheapo GE multimeter) and when unplugged I get a no crank condition. Plugged in again and it's still cranking strongly with no signs of firing. Back where I began.

Stupid car,

 

Check your PM

 

Well! Did you find the problem?

 

Not yet - been without power since the weekend (at home until last night and at work still) so other things have taken priority.

We bought a large standby generator to get the shop up and running again. The diesel bill is not wallet-friendly.

 

About to try changing the crank position sensor but not really having 100% faith this will solve the issue.

Still finding all circuits test normal and no spark. How would you test the ignition module on the cowl? Are these known to go bad?

 

Crank position sensor tested out at ∞Ω - bingo! That will solve it, right?

NOPE. Same problem, but new development it's got a raw fuel smell at the tailpipes.

Pulled all the plugs again. NOW they're all wet... so not only didn't it start but the formerly dry plugs now show signs and symptoms of cylinder wash.

Possibly original plugs, they might as well get changed anyhow - something I was going to put off until ready to do the obviously needed valve cover gasket replacement, which was going to be done with the preventive secondary timing chain tensioner replacement... This car is becoming a money pit and lawn ornament.

 

Crank position sensor tested out at ∞Ω - bingo! That will solve it, right?

If you wave a screwdriver close to the end of it it should register...it's a simple Hall effect switch.

This car is becoming a money pit and lawn ornament.

It would be if it was in a bay at the main dealer's. If you plan on keeping it, it's worth fixing, if not then get it running and flog it

No spark sounds like a security intervention, have you pressed the inertia switch behind the gas pedal? Any engine codes?

 

No codes, inertia switch has been checked. Security system, from everything I've read up on, would not begin with a cold start followed by an engine stall. It would start with not restarting after being shut off. Exciter ring (as mentioned in the thread) has been checked and is OK. If security didn't recognize the key the engine wouldn't spin at all (according to Jaguar themselves).

If you know otherwise please share! I'm at a loss here...

 

If you are in the process of changing the crank position sensor do that and see what takes place. I take it that the water was not part of the problem.

 

Changing the crank position sensor did not get the engine to fire. However it did trigger the injectors to pulse and now I have a cylinder wash condition. Original ECU is back in the car. I have no way of testing the ignition module at home, and have to work in between storms it seems. It has been since we spoke until today that I could finally get back to working on the car.

 

Ok! I know Sandy created a real problem for you and I do understand my condo in OC Md was hit by the storm as well. We are all pulling for you and waiting to hear that you got it started.

 

Thanks Gus... though I just read https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...o-spark-43197/ and was not encouraged!

I'm getting power out of the relay for the ignition coils so the ignition module - I'd think - is telling the coils it's OK to light up... Just ordered a set of new plugs from WorldPac and will be oiling the cylinders this week/weekend hoping for some results. $400 each for the two ignition modules is almost as much as the car cost me to begin with so if it comes to those the car is for sale to break even with the new parts.

 

Fingers are crossed!

 

Gus,
I don't understand this - correct me if I'm wrong but surely the injector pulse (eventually) comes from the CPS telling the ECM where the crank is.
The OP was getting one 'noid flash per turn' (presumably per two turns) with the old CPS which means, to me, it was working properly so why has he suddenly started getting wet plugs?

 

No that's not correct. Never said "per turn."

I got one single flash from the injectors at key on and initial turn to start. None while cranking after that first. NOW I have injector pulse while cranking. NOW - not previously - I have injectors sending fuel when I crank. Previously I only had power to the injectors (ruling out a lack of power to the injectors as a no-start cause)

 

Be sure to do a compression test after pouring oil in the cyliders- I put too little in at first and still had a no start. "More" oil did the trick for me.