You can check the compression on a cold engine, the readings will just be somewhat lower as compared to the readings on a hot engine. But this does not matter in your case - you just need to see if you have very low or zero readings on some cylinders. Otherwise, the compression test should be done with the throttle in the wide open position. You can remove the intake tube and, in some way, jam the throttle butterfly fully open.

Spotting any bent valve with an endoscope may not be really possible. One way would be to remove the intake manifold, position the valves (one by one) fully closed, shine light into the intake and look for any light patches inside the cylinder with the endoscope. This would only give you the status of the intake valves. There is no point in trying to use an endoscope, the compression test will tell you straight away.

 

will do the compression test soon .

I noticed when I turned the crankshaft clockwise it was heavier to turn it could it be because the exhaust camshaft over tightened so there's more load on the entire engine?

 

No, I don't think the exhaust cam caps could cause that. Bent valves can usually be observed from the top, as the valve cap will not be as high as the others when the cam is rotated.

 

hi RJ . both right and left side flat cam lube are the same

ist still possible that I have bent valves? I know the compression test will show if there's bent or no but just curious since both side are the same.
I don't have compression gauge will get one soon .

also the right side plastic secondary tensioner looks brand new! no cracks no wear the left side was bare metal so should i change it or keep it?

 

The over-tighten, if not significant but say 20-30%, would not cause the camshaft to bind. However, incorrect orientation of the caps (front/back) as well as incorrect sequence (numbering) can cause serious binding of the camshaft, even camshaft breaking. Perhaps you should double-check this. The caps on the intake cam are numbered 0 to 4 from the front of the engine; the exhaust cam caps are numbered from 5 to 9, also from the front of the engine. The ">" sign should point forwards on all caps.

 

here's the cam caps numbers from the left . 47-50-44-42-41 all following > this sign . I would say I'm sure it's correct but since first time to do this job mistakes can happen.

 

I will take clear picture for caps later I think it's better.

 

From left? The numbers you provided are not what the caps usually have. On the exhaust cam caps, they should be 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 from front to back.

 

checked them the exhaust cam caps number are
5-6-7-8-9 from front to back .

 

Have we been back to basics
check the crankshaft timing as I did with Xjack & MS help me look for timing alignment on the flywheel
then set the flats on the cams
reading back to the beginning you changed the tensioner while under pressure from the valves
so I would think to get the timing set up so as to be on the compression stroke (both valves closed)
then there is no load (pressure) on the cam and just check everything is timed and aligned properly.
then you know it cant be mechanical
then do a compression test and go from there
whenever you replace a part (tensioner in this case ) do all, as you do with plugs, or oil and filter, it just takes that maybe factor out.
ok keep going bit by bit and watch the back

 

For easy reference, I attach a picture of a cam cap (No. 8) and the cap positioning drawing.

 

thanks for the pic. the bank b that I worked on it all caps are in correct position

 

compression test results

bank B from front to rear. 180 psi -185psi - 185psi -190 psi

bank A from front to rear 185 psi- 185psi -190psi 190 psi

thanks God I think I have good compression numbers.

what you think guys ? next step put everything back together or there's more things to check before putting back the fuel pump relay and ignition coils?

thanks.

 

Those are excellent #'s

 

update. i installed everything back together spark plugs torqued at 28nm, ignition coils and air intake air filter and fuel relay i started the car and now the engine sound very good I didn't rev up the engine the engine became smoother after the temperature raised up to the quarter on the gauge turned off the car after about 3 minutes .

I believe i did the job as it should but I lost the 2 bolts of the air intake

thanks a lot for you guys.

 

Are you speaking of the 2 on the throttle body neck? Cheapest and easiest place would probably be the scrap yard, they may even give them to you.

 

yup that one , I'm using zip ties for now .

i did sand 2 of my ignition coils i was going to change it anyway with good used denso or new set from eBay which is for 90$ and comes with 100000 warranty but the engine now works fine and no much of vibration I think it's normal to have little vibration at cold start with old cars .

 

Have you checked your motor mounts?...could be the cause of the vibration.

 

maybe, I will check it next month. i noticed oil leakage from left side of the engine . the cam cover is leaking from the upper side I'm sure the the cam cover gasket have something wrong

 

If its a purple color, its almost assuredly the motor mount...they are fluid filled.