One neat features that came on XJ8 in most market, but not on US specs cars, is the headlamp levelling feature,
THe system use an actuator on both low beams and a switch to move the lowbeams up or down to compensate for weight in the car
Picture of the switch:
JAGUAR XJ8 HEADLIGHT ADJUSTER AND BOOT Switch

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/JAGUAR-XJ8-HEA...item4aa7fb1e87

and of the actuator:
Jaguar XJ6 XJ8 XJR X300 X308 - HEADLIGHT LEVEL MOTOR

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/JAGUAR-XJ8-HEA...item4aa7fb1e87

The wiring is already there for the switch but not for the actuators.
I did this upgrade on my 01 XJR and it's pretty simple.
If interested, let me know and I will post instructions

 

Luc, thanks for your post.....and of course we're interested!!!

Perhaps you could do a write up c/w pics for the site for the benefit of any members that wanted to add this feature to their car??

 

Sure we're interested. Did you have to run wires or install connectors? How much is plug and play?

Was this the motor link?
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Jaguar-XJ6-XJ8...#ht_2820wt_838

 

Luc how did you get the wires to the actuators...this is on my project list

 

The actuators have 3 wires, + ignition switched, ground and signal from the switch.
To get the signal wire here is what you need to do:

1/ Jack up car on the left side until the front left wheel barely touch the ground

2/ remove black plasic fender/wheel liner

3/ once that done you will see a big electrical connector at the bottom of the A post, just forward of the door hinges

4/ disconnect/open the connector

5/ once disconnected locate cavity #27 (they are all marked) and on the cabin side the wire color is Green/White

6/ Now you need to find a male pin to fit in the female pin of cavity 27, I got mine from radioshack

7/ using a marker, mark on the outside of the connector ( the 1/2 part on the fender side) the empty cavity for # 27 and reconnect connector

8/ crimp 5' of 16 gauge wire to the new male pin and, using a small screwdriver push the pin/wire in the empty cavity that you just marked until it is fully seated.

9/ run this new wire, following the harness and using zip ties, and make it exit as the same location than the harness ( on the inner fender next to the ABS module.)

10/ Instead of + ingition swiched, it was easier to find a "Live" + in the fuse box by the ABS module. For ground I used 1 of the 2 ground studs that are also next to the ABS module

11/ After that you need to build a small harness ( 3wires) to go to both actuators

Some notes:

Get the switch ( max $25 with shipping) from Ebay UK
For the 2 actuators get them from Ebay also ( max $30 for both with shipping) but make sure to ask for the connector/piggy tails for them ( EuroJag is a good place)

Both front headlamp assembly ( not just the lights ) need to be removed.

The black pastic mounting plate is different for headlamps that use actuators but the "regular" one can be modified ( as I did) to work.
Once you have the actuators, it's pretty self explanatory what need to be done, just a matter of reshaping one of the mounting holes for the lights