SuperSport is giving you good information, maybe he can help you with that issue, As you can see by my pics in my profile, I went away from using the stock radio Amplifier to a aftermarket Amp, so my info on the stock is limited, it does sound like it's not functioning right, I wonder if it's all hooked up correctly.

 

The hooked up correctly part is what is confusing, how can a harness (which appears to be untampered with) be hooked up wrong?!

Unless someone made a very original-looking aftermarket harness... I can trace the wire colors from sub to the amp, so they are indeed plugged in to the amp.

There is no way to shut off the sub from the radio right? Some hidden button feature maybe? (this car has tons of those )

Green, you changed the amp? What did you to get it all hooked up right? What amp did you use? Could I just swap with your amp-upgrade and expect this to fix itself?

 

I don't know the exact process to find the problem. I know for me, I would start tracing it backwards. You will need a wiring diagram to do that. I literally start testing the speaker wire going back towards the radio. I use straight pins and insert them into the wiring insulation anywhere I cannot get an easy connection for testing (be careful to NOT let them touch each other, insert them a couple inches apart). Since everything is inside the vehicle, I'm not too worried about moisture getting into the pin holes. Normally, I would put silicone back on the small holes.

Recently my radio sound went dead and I could not figure it out. I tore apart the AMP, the Radio Head Unit, testing all the wires, circuits, and checking for burned traces on all the circuit boards. I could not find anything. It was so frustrating, I spent many days searching. I even bought a replacement head unit, but STILL NO SOUND! (PS: I still have the replacement unit if anyone is interested, it's quite clean!)

It turned out being the power to my Antenna was not connected. This alone caused my whole radio to not work! Strange, especially, since the radio was grounded and powered properly. Anyways, a new antenna (the mast was broken, thus being disconnected) and all is working again.

I don't think it's the same issue for you though, because I didn't get ANY sound, not just the SUB, even the CD sound was gone. But, it's just an example that it might not be the obvious answer...

Another thing.. In my search, I found many posts about the AMP getting wet and causing it to go out. I thought this was my issue too. The trunk leaks right above the amp near the fuel inlet. During the winter, you might notice moisture in the trunk. Jaguar fixes this leak with some white putty pressed on the seams inside the trunk. Mine started to leak again, and I pressed the putty back on and the leak stopped. Kind of a ghetto fix, but I guess re-welding and painting does not make a lot of sense either.

 

Thanks, but first, never weld next to a fuel line! Your story is a bit daunting I must say! Wiring that is in like-new condition rarely fails, more likely something is unplugged somewhere or the amp or head is not working correctly - unless there is a fuse for this somewhere?? Are there any other components somewhere (pre-amp maybe?)

There are signs of previous moisture entering, the amp was covered in residue from the back of the insulation/liner, but it was apparently fixed prior to my ownership as trips in heavy rain maintain a dry trunk. I assume the amp is for all the speakers though? If so, why would only the sub not work?

Anyone have a wiring diagram or at least a photo of their harness so I can compare wire-colors to?

 

When I tore my AMP apart, there were different amp circuits for each output. I'm thinking it's likely something more simple than that also, but I did read about the AMPS dying due to moisture. Although it was likely the complete AMP, and not just one channel that died (speculation).

In my signature, you will find My Jaguar Files Collection. In there is a wiring diagram for the 2001. I don't know if they are exactly the same, but you can look at it and see.

 

VD, Supersport does have good points, moisture can be a reason, but he is also correct in saying that such problems would kill the ENTIRE Amp, not just a channel. Your situation is getting more and more curious, I'm thinking there is not a Dealer near you or some other type of Audio dealer and everything is left up to you, If this is not true then take it to a professional, cause it sounds like Electrical issues. My after market Amp hook up was easy and typical Audio hookup, no tricks or clever stunts, just went with Radio Diagram and hooked up audio, power and ground wires to Amp and then Speaker Wires, no tricks and it was not Hard, but if you are not use to doing stuff like that then it can look scary and confussing, but it's not. What auto car stores are near you? Electronic stortes, small auto stores like for Oil change, tune ups, anything?

 

I have plenty of radio shops, but dealers are not close to me (+ don't want to pay them for a subwoofer fix)

 

SuperSport, just reviewed the wire diagram in your files and it appears that the only subwoofer connection is directly to the amp - the only way the head-unit could effect it is if the amp was sent a signal to turn down the subwoofer even when set to +7 (max).

Since the sub is a 2-channel unit and all the wiring looks fine, it is more likely something in the head-unit not-"enabling" or misinforming the amp to not power the sub.

To be sure, would someone with a factory sub/amp (ICE Premium package) please photograph their harness connected to the amp so that I can verify the wire colors of mine?

 

Long shot but there is a switch under the back of the head unit to change the configuration from STD to PRM
STD (standard) do not have the AMP and PRM (premium) does.
Check to see in which position the switch is

 

I will take photos a bit later today.Huh? Where is this switch located? ON the head unit itself? Also, is my head unit the same as vdpnyc's, since they are different years, etc...? I've got one out that I can take photos of to show the switch location. Mines from a 1999 XJR.

EDIT: Here is the Head Unit I bought but ended up not needing.

 

Jaguar changed head units in 2000 ( with the introduction of navigation and Alpine)
The switch is on the bottom of the radio ( need to be removed for access) on the left side ( same than volume control0 and is clearly marked

 

Thanks luc, good information, and a strong possibility of what's going on for him.

PS: Since luc has verified we have different units, it's possible this photo will be of no help at all.

Photo is looking down on AMP in the trunk.

 

If the switch was in the wrong (non-premium/amp'ed) position, would I still have the subwoofer-level control existing in the menus?

Can someone without the premium/amp+sub setup please confirm if they do or do not have an option for subwoofer level after the bass/treble/balance/etc. controls?

My head unit is the newer version with the +plus-shaped button layout on the left (different from the one in SuperSport's picture)

The center console wood has some fractures in it, so to disassemble the console to pull out the radio risks ruining the wood/veneer unless someone can suggest a way that won't require any flexing of the wood inlay.

 

Now that I know we have different interiors, I don't know if it's the same for you, but on mine, if I place the shifter in drive, I don't have to flex the wood. Maybe BARELY when it first clears the shift plate, but not enough to damage the wood.

PS: Remember to set the E-Brake and block the wheels. I almost forgot that once while removing the radio and parked on a hill, so it could have been disastrous.

 

With meter set to Ohms, unplug and measure across the two pairs of speaker terminals... each should read somewhere between 4 and 8 ohms.

Run the stereo and measure AC volts across each pair of sub woofer wire spade lug connectors - you should see a varying voltage, dependant upon the volume setting and bass content of the music.

Ths sub is removed by taking out the back seat bottom and back then parcel shelf. It bolts in from the top of the shelf. it is a dual voice coil 6x9 sub and there's not many out there to replace it but for the original. I ended up repairing mine, since I couldn't get a better replacement and the OEM was rather pricey.

 

My stock sub in my 2003 X-Type was a 6.5 subwoofer in it's own box mounted under rear deck shelf. You can't see the stock sub from my pictures from the back, but see piece of the shelf rack.

 

But we're in the XJ section talking about an XJ8 and the instructions posted in #35 are the correct procedure.

 

Thank you for your instructions. They will be helpful for future as I've been wanting to remove the shelf. Same way as was my 66 mustang, so I should be good doing this one.

 

Well, no problem, I will keep my comments and replys from you and your issues. Againno problem sorry for the disturbance and opinion.

 

No need to get insulted, as none was intended. I was just trying to aviod confusing the original poster with information unrealated to his problem.