i always had an itch to own a Jag and yesterday i found a 1998 Jaguar XJ8 L with the 4.0 V8 and it was for selling for $1900 the interior and exterior looks great with 123,000miles on it with all service records. LOVE the sound of the engine and it ran nice with no leaks.

But im in for what's to come because i bought it knowing the transmission is in limp mode.

So here is the story, An old lady owned the car up to 75000 miles and when she passed away he got the car and drove it up to 123,000 and said it was a very nice ride, One day he said it would do a little slip in-between shifting once in awhile.
Then one day in traffic he went to press on the gas and he said thats when it went into limp mode, he said there was a lack of power and very slow take off, he drove it just far enough to get off the freeway and get towed to his mechanic.

Of course the first thing the mechanic told him was he needed another transmission, and wanted $1500 to fix it... (thats when i thought to myself a rebuild should cost way more?)

So i decided to get the car being it had all the records and low miles on the engine....

Im picking up the car tuesday and not planning to drive it home, i am going to tow it and start my inspections before i do a rebuild on the transmission.

ive been doing research and notice that it could be something as a slow transmission leak if thats the case im going to fix all leaks (i heard it can leak from the pin connector coming out of the gear box due to the o-rings, or maybe the gasket) change out the transmission filter with a new one and put fresh fluid in there. clean the transmission connecting pins (another thing i heard if they are tin to change them out with brass/gold connectors? to make better contact?)
Then i am going to do the hard restart to reset everything before starting the car and take it on its first drive to see if that resolves the problem.

If not my second attempt will be to switch out the TCM but i dont think that will be the problem as the failure tends to be the Drum, IM HOPING ITS NOT. but if it is then it's off to rebuilding the whole thing.

knowing a reinforced drum in there and new clutches etc will make for a more comfortable feeling on those long road trips.
well if anyone would like to give me some insight on if im crazy for what i did feel free! and wish me luck on my trials! because im dying to feel how it is to drive a properly working Jag!!

Am i doing the right thing by taking these steps? or just wasting time being the A-Drum is the one that is usually the issue????

The oil i will be using is castrol Import Multi ATF, it says works with LT71141 just like esso.

 

If a serious enough transmission code is set, the trans will default to 5th gear and display "gearbox fault" I have had the A-drum failure on my car about 20k or more ago and now I have another gearbox fault but for whatever reason cannot retrieve the codes since OBD II doesnt require communication with trans and its a separate module. I have decided to just swap in the 01 5hp24 I have laying around.

I have fixed the leaking o-rings on the main trans wiring connector on the bmw 722.6 transmission aka the NAG1 trans in a Dodge. I did it on a 04 e320 that I serviced for my customers until they eclipsed the 220k mark. Now they have a 2012 e350, so I dont get to service it until the free dealer stuff runs out. IIRC, the 722.6 trans only comes in the XJR models though. My recent problems wont toss a gearbox fault unless I get heavy on the throttle and then it feels like someone is shifting the car from N to D until I pass 30 MPH. Since I cant retrieve the code I think I am just going to do a trans swap. BTW, if you are capable of pulling the trans yourself, you probably have enough know how to do the A-drum. The only "special" tool I used was a press for assembling one of the drums, but I have seen people make their own presses. I am rocking the mobil 1 multi vehicle fluid ever since I did the A drum and look at me now with more trans problems at 182k. I got this car 2 years ago with 130k or so and it has been very reliable until my ex drove it with a busted radiator and blew the HGs, causing me to buy a 01 parts car and swap engines. I have banged out about 4k just myself in the past few months and love the ride, the power, and the looks I get everywhere I go in it. The only sad part is the number of antenna masts I have installed. Thank goodness for the CD changer aux input hack. Its a shame I'm going to have to sell it. Anyway, the best of luck to you and keep us posted on what you do!
-Rob

P.S. IIRC, you should do a search but I think the A drum failure is accompanied by a p1722 or p0722 code. For some reason I had no problems retrieving this code the first time around using my mt2500. Now I am in the dark. Someone in the area wanna come scan my TCM for memory codes?

 

I would expect to see the drum code, but your symptoms sure match mine when the A drum went.

 

Ok thanks guys, what i will do for sure is go out and get myself a code reader first to see what pops up and prop the car up on jack stands and check the fluid level, ill be sure to post pics as soon as i pick up the car on tuesday! going to be exciting! here are a couple of pics i took when i first looked at it.

 

I think you got a bargain with that car; it looks to be in good condition.
The aftermarket wheels suit the car, and will be easier to clean than originals.
If you are handy with a spanner should be able to fix trans. You may find it is not broken, just electrical prob. could even be old battery.

 

He just had new radiator hoses installed and coolant tank along with new alternator and battery

 

He got the problem a few months after aving a mechanic instal the new alternator, thats why im hoping a top off and hard restart might cure it, but knowing the A-drum is in there and those go bad i will only know if thats the case if find metal in the trans pan. (been on this computer for 6hrs researching issues downloading PDf's) lol i feel like a zombie haha

 

Pete...they are not aftermarket wheels, they are standard 16" factory fitted 'Starburst' wheels.
You can also get this version in polished style.

 

Hello,
before you get carried away, you need to get the codes read out.
An ordinary OBD11 code reader will not dicipher trans codes.
You need one with Jaguar enhancement capabilities or preferably take it to either a dealer or independant who has factory diagnostics or Auto-Logic.

At that mileage, it could be one of a number of things.
it could well be the 'A' drum failure.
It could be something simple like low oil level.
These boxes are not normally prone to leaking, the oil eveaporates over time.
It was only the very early boxes that had a problem with the pin connector.
It's also a known fact that the internal solenoids gum up.
Quite obviously this box has never been touched ....as most are not because of the 'sealed for life' mantra trotted out by manufacturers.
Therefore it is in line for a fluid drain and filter replacement.
But....if the box has gone into 'limp mode' then it just about gaurentees a rebuild.

Frankly, for what little it costs, I would be going the oil change and filter route first....you may be lucky but like i said, at that distance an untouched ZF 5HP24 box is just about reached it's danger zone.
Always go for the simple fixes first before you go sir crazy with massive dollar signs....you may be pleasantly surprised ;o]

The oil you have decided to use is what I have used for the past seven years....here it is called Castrol Transmax-Z and is excellent ;o))
If you just do a drop and drain, you will only remove around 4 litres out of the full 10 litres, the majority of which is retained by the torque converter.
So, either you do 3 full drop and drains or have the box hydraulically flushed ]

 

I think there are only a few JAG specific P codes for the transmission.
They are mostly OBD readable as I understand it.
http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Auto...tem%201998.pdf

 

It is *possible* that when they replaced the radiator enough fluid leaked out and was not replaced (new radiator has no fluid) to cause this- Cross your fingers.

Even if you have to replace the A-drum it's not so bad. There is a guy in NOHO that will sell you the reinforced one or just a new regular one. Make sure to replace the o-ring(s) as well in the process.

 

When I was shopping for a scanner, I bought the top of the line one, that will read all codes (has a list of all major manufacturers, and "asks" you which car you are trying to read before it scans). It pays back in many ways to get something like that.

But for your problem,......I would get a battery checked/charged/replaced ....whatever it needs first, and let it throw fresh codes (if it will!) before I start anything. If the codes come back, I would proceed to service the tranny (as many suggested), erase the codes, and do it all over again. If the codes persist, I would pull the tranny, take it appart, and fix whatever it needs. Most mechanics WILL not spend this much time in diagniostics (they can't charge for it), and will take the easy way out, by replacing the tranny.

Your mechanic quoted you 1500 to "fix" the tranny? Something tells me that he is not honest with you. Tranny can not be rebuild/replaced for 1500 parts AND labor. He knows he will make a handsome profit in these 1500, so the question is how? Might be just a service, plus some diagnostic time that he is trying to sell you as a "rebuild/replacement". Go slow, be methodical, and you might get "pleasantly surprised" (as the previous poster said).

These cars are VERY sensitive to battey voltage drop, and/or oil level/fluid contamination. Most owners don't know squat about the cars they are driving, and once the dreaded codes appear, they sell the car for cheap because they are scared. In any case,.....you can find a rebuilt tranny in CA (with all the upgrades and warranty) for 1500. One afternoon of wrenching, and you can replace it yourself (if you need to). You would still have a great car for peanuts, even if you end up replacing the tranny,.....but I don't think you'll have to.

After it's fixed, please come back and let us know the outcome.

 

I called a couple of shops today to see how much they would charge for a rebuild, and they are asking $3500 to $4000?!?!?!?!?!?!? at this price i would rather take on the challenge myself lol. is this around the right price???

 

It's at the high end of what others have reported, but that may be a function of where you are located.

 

Do it yourself. Removing and replacing the tranny is going to probably be 1kish alone.

Transmission shops (and I do not blame them) usually replace most of the non-hard parts inside so the odds of it coming back are slim. Thus the high $$. I replaced the A-drum myself and it cost me a grand total of $300.

 

Totally have to agree with you on that ill have my brother do the valve body cleaning being he works for GM cars ad has the stuff at his work to clean it right when i have the pan out and do the fluid service, then hard reset and see where the car stands,then if i still get gearbox failure

then i will just take it to a mechanic that has the right tool a few miles from here to see what codes are popping up so i can have a better idea of what i need to fix,

i looked on line and a full clutch kit with seals & o-rings plus the upgraded A-Drum is like $500

Now as for driving the car in limp mode is it safe to drive as long as i am easy on the pedal so i can take it to the mechanic that is about 30 miles, mostly freeway, and of course i would do this after fluid service ONLY if there are not metal chunks in pan. Or would you guys suggest towing it to the shop??
the mechanic said it would be fine to drive it to his shop in limp mode.

(Im hoping he did not just say that so i could end up being stuck at his shop)
haha
thanks again guys for being so helpful!!

 

Can this, and will this apply to a 1995 XJS? I too have bought a Jag that keeps dropping into the Limp Mode after a bit. The mechanic said it is two sensors in the transmission that get touchy with cold weather (Been running in the 20 - 30's here) and I am not sure if it is something I can limp through (No pun intended) until Spring time to get swapped out?

I have had British before, but it's been a few years and has been OLDER than this Ford knock off.. My 77 was a real Brit.

 

Welcome to the Jag forums. When you have time, please visit the new member area and introduce yourself.
New Member Area - Intro a MUST - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum

Your XJS has an entirely different transmission. You will find more assistance on the XJS forum
XJS - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum

 

98JagXJ8L, I think it is worth a look under the gear selector panel. Once I had this limp mode (but its an XJR), and it was caused by that one of the selector arm's needle jumped out of the switch (at the lower end of the arm in front of the cable).

 

Awesome ill be sure to look at that too, how would I be able to tell? Where to I put the gear selector to see if it's needle jumped?

Also is it safe to drive the car on limp mode?