Looks like fun to take that pulley off. Anyone done it with a 3 jaw puller vs the special puller?

Also it looks like I have to grind the snout on the SC. Anyone done it without taking the blower off the car?

 

Adam, some have ground a notch in the original until it splits. Maybe ask the S type guys how they do it? I doubt you'll be able to accurately get the snout ground in-situe, but hey there's a challenge.

Out of interest what lb pulley is it? Also what are the outer/inner diameters?

Good luck.

 

Not having one of those I didn't pay a lot of attention when I found a pictoral on filing the housing on the engine. If I remember correctly, the guy did a pretty neat job of it. Try a search.

 

I remember reading somewhere that the factory pulley is pressed on with a 20,000 lb press. I would think it would be easiest to remove the pulley when it is attached to the engine, but grinding the snout down for the smaller pulley I would think would only be easily done out of the car

 

are the dimensions a secret??

 

Just a suggestion ... if you know the diameter of the shaft in real life, you can then work out an approximation of the diameter of the pulley from the photo.

Maybe Adam is just busy playing with his new toys

 

I've various stainless nose pulleys, just wanted to know what version Adam bought, and what it's stated boost level, i.e. 1.5/3lb etc, I don't usually work on approximations. I also know the diameter of the snout shaft!

 

well food for thought here I have done an old supercoupe trick I learned back when I loved my ole supercoupe T-bird. I notched the supercharger tensioner making its tension 30% higher and got rid of that crap jag belt and installed a slightly smaller gates green stripe belt. So still utilizing the stock upper and lower pulleys. I had a nice playful race with my buddies 00 and he has the 3 pound upper pulley but using new jag belt and stock tensioner and such. We both were completely stock and this was before I removed any weight. So cars were pretty dam even weight wise we went to the dump and weighed in I was 30 pounds heavier due to my tool bag in the rear. I had a stock exhaust and no tune he had a catback an K&N I was using a stock jag filter. Now we raced 3 times from a stop and 2 times from 50 an 70. Needless to say ea time was the same my car destroyed his from a stop all the way to 70, I had him by 1.5 to 2 carlengths and from 50 to 110 I had him by 2 to 3 and from 70 to 120 I had by the same. Now I will say without a doubt after changing belts and modding my tensioner my car felt noticably faster quicker off the line and ZERO slip. An this was with me using a new jag belt just changing to my favorite gates green stripe and modding my tensioner was a huge difference. Now with a catback and tune and the weight removal its no contest my car rips like a raped ape. Even to the point I have been reconsidering the TS just because right now the car has great traction and pulls like a freight train boost gauge shows a solid 14 psi all the way to redline, and like I said this is with stock pulleys.

Next will be my new stainless coated mannys, 2.5 in downpipes an high flow cats and we will see how this does as well.

 

Sounds both logical and plausible.

What's the part number for that Gates Green Stripe?

 

That's interesting, how do you go about notching the tensioner? and +1 on the gate's belt part#
Cheers!

 

A 3 psi pulley (though have never heard someone confirming this with measurments), should be about 2.65".

When I went below 2.75" I would always change to a smaller belt, iirc I used the gates K080510 (K080514 is stock size for the 4.0 cars).

 

OK- I am missing something. Is the claim that there were lower losses in the new belt and tensioner arrangemement, or was some other effect happenning>

 

If you look at some of the hardcore domestic sites for cars using blowers, the posters there go to great lengths to prevent belt slippage. 8 groove pulleys, 12 groove pulleys, cogged pulleys, 50mm belts, 60mm belts.

 

So far I haven't experienced any belt slip (but have always used new belts), and would doubt that one would be susceptible to this with a stock blower/pulley setup under normal conditions. Although I use different type of pulleys, I have stressed small uppers ones with more power than a stock Eaton. Though for the pulley Adam has (being it 2.6"or 2.65) I would go for the K080510.

 

no secret, I've jut been tied up. I'll measure it up today and post. Do you guys want the measurements in standard or metric?

 

I think it claims 3lbs of boost extra.

I'm going to install a boost gauge before I slap it on to get a base line. Keep in mind that I'm running a 2004 4.2 motor with the 2004 blower (bigger bearings with Teflon coated rotors) and a 4.2 lower pulley which is bigger than the on e from a 4.0

I'll let you in on a little secret too. I got a guy in Illinois who claims he can tune the car for me. Anyone has more details as who makes the ECU for the 1998 and if it is flashable through OBDII or if the EPROM needs to be removed?

 

@Adam,
As you have a larger engine, the base boost will be lower, but as you are running the larger lower pulley fromt he 4.2 the base boost will be the same again (so about 11.6). The 2.6 should yield about 2.8 psi, planning any before and after tune?

You should wonder if this guy can tune your car if he doesn't even know what ECU you have... Have you followed xjr-220 thread on a killer tune?

 

I will look up the part number for the gates Im using its a good bit smaller I know that, but I love the tension on it and how solid it feels. I have been thinking of having my stock eaton rotors coated an the inside of the case by this company just to see how it does The High Speed Lab, Roots-type Supercharger Rebuild Services for All Eaton Superchargers

 

Hi again,

What is the part number for the gates belt, and how did you modify the existing tensioner?

 

adam

mind to tell me where you got this pulley?