Low Coolant Light :

Just took mine out & actually got on it kind of hard(my 1st time doing so) meaning aggressive starts from stop in the 0-55ish MPH zone. When I came to a stop "Low Coolant" red light came then, back to slow 35ish the light went off & flickered back on twice before I parked. All in all 15 minutes of driving. No raging fans, temp. spikes & the coolant level was normal.

Edit : May be of note this is the first drive in 3 days.

I'm sure there's no air in the system as I had the radiator flushed & filled last week & I returned & had it checked for air after my heater failed to work the next day(which I've troubleshot to the heater's pump just waiting on part to arrive).

I did a thorough search closest I could find was in another forum section.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-108362/page2/

Edit :
Just took her back out in a normal fashion no lights nor whistles. I think this is my baby's way of telling me to treat her like a lady lol after all it is April's Fools ! Still going to keep eyes peeled so any input is appreciated.

 

There is a little coolant level device inside the expansion tank, sometimes they stick. You can get your finger in there and manipulate it to free it up a bit. Obviously when the coolant is cold!!!

 

The low coolant light can come on with coolant level as little as a half inch or so below the cap of the reservoir... top it off till it runs over.

 

Yes I was thinking w/ the force from faster take-offs & stops creating waves/splashing in there maybe setting it off. I'll top it off & keep an eye out.

 

King. Mine does the same when I run it hard. Just add a touch of distilled water up to the base.

 

If you clean all the plumbing squeaky clean, you WILL notice some leakage/seepage at the thermostat tower, or at the clamps. Coolant IS evaporating somewhere (not "leaking" to be easily observed, but evaporating ever slightly, and not enough to notice the smell). Dye in the system might reveal the spot, or look for some build up of salts and solids. This model is VERY sensitive on even a slight drop in the coolant level, and there is a problematic sensor too, to consider. So after you add destiled water (or 50/50) wait for the message to come back. When it does, open the cap and see how much is missing (it WILL be missing!!). Where is it?
Find the weak point in the plumbing, and fix it. Whatever you do,......DON"T IGNORE THE PROBLEM!
You don't want to overheat an X308, ....trust me.

 

All over it guys, I gather since it was older lady owned that it hasn't seen much of spirited driving. I'm going to continue addressing the problematic "hot spots", then slowly get it acclimated to my style of driving lol.

 

Have experienced same in the past, especially hen driving harder. I did eventually find a leak at a hose connector level (by the thermostat) by spotting dried up residue. Replaced hose. Got other hose replaced while intake manifold was off. I eventually got another leak from thermostat cap - the seal was shot (some grease monkey at a garage had over tighten the top). I have been "low coolant" message free for sometime now, but as stated here coolant will slowly but surely find its way out somewhere else - and it IS happening as insignificant it may be at this time. Just need to keep an eye. I always have 50/50 in the trunk with me. Always! Last, but not least, I have had to back flush my heater core twice now. I do so without completely flushing the coolant. It did take a few 'top offs' to no longer get the message.

Cheers

 

Still getting acquainted with the engine lay out, right now I only know the obvious lol but I'll try & find some detailed images & track the leak down before I put it in the shop & get charged for someone else tracking it down.

Update : 1:40 AM

So I took her back out maybe 10 minutes in @ a leisurely(35mph) pace & I get the low coolant light off & on. Get home let her sit for several minutes & go to add 50/50 I twist the cap very lightly and when I break seal I hear massive bubbling/gurgling of fluid rushing(I let the gurgling finish never completely removing the cap or adding 50/50). I know a normal amount of gurgle will happen as the seal is breached but this sounded like massive air rushing. I'd like to think the respected shop that flushed her 2 weeks ago knew enough to check it as I asked to do so TWICE. I then took her back out stop & go in sub-urban areas, then the freeway with no light or anything. I will keep some 50/50 with me just in case.

On a side note when I popped the hood a piece of the engine's top cover was vacuum stuck to the hoods foam , so I had to put that back. But I what I need to know what is it lol ? It has a cover which I opened to find nothing lol I'll attach pics below.

Yes my neighbors love me tinkering @ the wee hours of the morning lol.

Mine


Where it is in stock pic.

 

Long, long time ago, in the land far away,........ people that build this car, put a tool kit in that spot. These tool kits can still be found on Ebay. That was the time when people who drove cars like this, didn't mind to tweak and fix on the go. I am without Jaguar for a moment, but I kept my oil checking rag, and a tire gauge there. Tool kit I carried was in the trunk, and it was better than what was provided with the car at the time.

 

Well I called the shop shortly after my discovery(left a message @ 2am) & expressed my frustration with the lack of covering the basics. Was not a pretty sight me @ 1am w/ a Mini Maglight in my mouth in PJ's & a wifebeater under the hood tinkering lol).

 

Replace all coolant hoses every 5 years. Add the Welsh Enterprises thermostat housing. have a few extra of the hard coolant lines around. Replace the serpentine belt, replace
the idler pulley. Just NEVER let the engine overheat even once. The level sensor on the
tank is finicky, but if you are having to add coolant regularly, there is a problem.


Spirited driving isn't the issue. I took my XJ8 to Darlington Drag strip. 0 to 92 mph
in 1/4 mile. No cooling issues after 8 passes. Spend the $$ on maintenance and the
car will reward you.

 

It was air & the need to top-off twice after a flush now, zero issues.

 

Jeeez...there are some idiots about and more than a few of them are collected in service departments!

These are a simple, well designed cooling systems that all to often are handled by klutzes.

The correct way to fill these systems is with the cap of both the thermo tower
and the expansion tank and then fill the system at the thermo tower....burping the top rad. hose occassionally and allowing the coolant to settle.

Once you have coolant at the top of the tower replace the cap and tighten to 10nm.
Finish filling the expansion tank to bae of filler neck, replace cap but do not tighten.
Warm up engine until reaches normal operating temp. and shut off.

NEVER check coolant level hot!
Let it cool down, fill to BASE OF FILLER NECK and tighten cap.
FYI...the expansion tank pressure cap should be replace every three years
as a service item.

The cooling sytem on these cars is of the 'Self Bleeding' variety and does not have air locks in it.
As hoses age, keep an eye on them, replace all those crappy spring clamps with proper stainless worm drive clamps.
Replace your thermostat every three four years.

Check all the major hoses, including the two heater hoses that travel under inlet manifold.
The small collection of hoses that connect the auxilliary heater pump with heater valve and throttle body.
It's all too easy to snap off the radiator end of the expansion tank bleed hose....ask me how I know ;o))
DON'T use crap coolant!

 

Yes all's been well every since.

 

Just on a routine check, now the coolant tank cap is stuck & I can't get it off lol wow these cars are touchy.

 

lol that cap is locked grips,jar opener etc. guess I'll just check the radiator.