3.9L DOHC V8 as used in Lincoln LS. Also some Thunderbirds. But the Lincoln reference is easier because there was only one V8 used in the Lincoln LS.

 

Now, let's make one thing quite clear.....
It is a common missconception that this engine is a Ford unit....on the contrary, it is a purely JAGUAR design from the castings up!
All AJ27 engines have four wire plugs to the coils.
The earlier AJ26 had two wire coils.
This engine was also used by Ford in their Lincoln Town Cars.
That is why you will find JAGUAR parts under Ford numbers and no other reason.

 

Finally the parts are on their way. Bank had the UK blocked so my transaction would not go through.

 

I don't believe they ever used it in the Town Car -- that was the modular V8.

I understand why they used the SType running gear in the TBird -- and they would have be OK with that -- but building the LS was a mistake. For whatever reason MB was able to get away with using old stuff in the Chryslers and not have it hurt the brand.

 

All,

Just want to take a second to thank everybody that has weighed in on this problem. I think I would still be scratching my head if it wasn't for all the input.

Now for the good news. I have the engine just about to the point of taking the timing cover off.

I have all of the front interference off and the valve covers off. The right side upper tensioner was broken. As soon as the valve cover came off I found pieces of it laying under the cam.

Still have a lot of work to do and will take some pics and post them when the job is done. But so far it is looking very promising.

 

No. It was the Lincoln LS and the Ford Thunderbird. Due to rounding of the actual displacement, they are referred to as 3.9L whereas Jaguar chooses to refer to it as a 4.0L.

 

Well I finally got everything lined up today. It took a while to fasion the blocks and the crank alignment pin.

The right bank exhaust cam jumped a tooth so that took a while to get aligned back and the cams locked into posion. I wound up taking the right bank exhaust gear off so I could align the cam flats then lock the cams in place.

I need some help / advice on getting the damper off of the crank. I have tried putting an impact wrench on the bolt but it just will not budge. Is there some trick?

 

There are a couple of ways- one involving a strap wrench and the other a long ratchet with a breaker bar and turning the starter momentarily with the spark plugs out OR jamming a flat crowbar into the flex plate . I opted for the latter- that bugger is on TIGHT.

 

BTW, were the old tensioners the new style and still jumped a tooth?

How come the damper has to come off if you hae already done the job, or is it you only have the cames lined up so far?

The bolt has threadlock on it. It is not Loctite, but the permanent Loctite says on the label that it requires heat to soften the seal *and* torque to undo it. You might be facing the same thing. So you might want to go to a store or their site and read the instructions on exactly how much heat. You don't want to damage the rubber bonding on the damper. You might need a heavier impact, or your compressor is not up to driving the impact that you already have.

Once you do have the bolt out, the damper needs a slight "pop" to loosen the locking collet that is between the crankshaft snout and the pulley.

Look for posts by Motorcarman who details this. Also look for hints about the type of puller.

So a good combination of search words would be: bolt crankshaft pulley puller collet

You can also filter by user name so that only their posts will be included.

 

@ plums - he's doing all tensioners and guides.

@ pingj - I'd recommend removing the fan assembly, it's a 5 minute job, just undo the bolts at the top, snip the zip ties on the fan's loom, and release the fan loom clip, then lift it out of the way - you've probably done that already....

A small blow torch will assist on the crank bolt - heat until it starts smoking - this is a fair guide that heat has penetrated enough. To be on the sure side, a new bolt is in order. The collet plums mentioned is in fact a cone shim that locks the pulley onto the crank, rarely binds - once the bolt is out a simple tap on the pulley is enough for it to fall off. I've removed them by using a long breaker bar and relied on the crank locking peg, but this has a potential to bend/distort the plate/hole, much safer to use a pulley strap to lock up the pulley. Either way it takes serious grunt to budge the bolt, good luck!

 

See above

 

I hadn't thought about using a blow torch.
At this point if I can't get the pully off, I have the option of just doing the upper tensioners and closing her back up.
If I apply heat I'm risking damaging the seal on the timing cover.


I would suggest as an alternative a heat gun, these can provide a surpising amount of heat and far less risk of damge.
To remove the pulley you will need a substantial quality pulley or the factory unit.
Don't wory about the crank seal in the tining cover as this will be replaced any way.
as for wear in the lower primary tensioners, this is pretty rare unless very high mileage....the same goes for the slipper blades which a lot of people forget about.
Make sure that the crank shaft os well locked into position before apply massive amounts of leverage.
Removal of the fans unit as suggested gives enough room for a rattle gun set at 100psi and keep at it while still applying heat with the heat gun.
Then and only then if this fails you resort to brute force ;o))
There is no half arsed way of doing this job.

 

this is just a little off subject, ...

 

these tools make the job easy

pulley locker

pulley puller

 

Leaving a few threads engaged on the bolt is a good idea while doing this so the damper doesn't smash into anything when it releases.

Not a lot of people do it, but the first thing to try on any pulley removal is the old tap with a hammer. If pulling pressure is applied to the opposite side to where the tapping is taking place, then as the pulley rocks past center it can move just a tiny bit. Repeated taps will let it loosen more. The key is that the pulling pressure on the opposite side causes the pulley to rock past center to relieve the binding. If the pulley can move the tiniest little bit, then it will walk off the shaft.

 

You would be better off starting your own thread on your particular topic or finding a more closely related thread.

 

Hi all,

Sorry for being gone so long. Work got in the way and while we were putting the engine back together last weekend we decided to replace the water pump since the bearing didn't feel good. That took 4 days to come in.

So yesterday I finshed putting the car back together. I broke the coolant temperature sensor while putting it back together. At 8:30 last night I one locally.

So with fingers crossed I turned the key and the cat fired up. Ran a little rough at first then settled down. I still had engine codes, so I connected the scanner. Had multiple miss fires still but didn't know if they were from prior to the work.

So I shut the car down, cleared the codes and tried to restart. Car cranks but no start.

Any ideas would be great.

 

I hate to tell you this but there's a thread (on the XK8/XKR forum I think) about pulling the injector fuse and cranking the engine to pressurise the tensioners or they can let the chain skip - I think it was Plums going on about it.
Did you do that - if not it is possible your timing has gone off.
Sorry, I only just found this thread or I'd have warned you.

 

No I didn't see that. I sure hope that isn't the problem. The car started right up though it was only after shutting it down to clear the codes that there was a problem.

 

It happened to someone else, exactly the same and he'd skipped a tooth.
I don't want to upset you so let's wait for some 'second opinions'.
Maybe wise not to turn it over until you get more feedback.