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Any damage is already done, so take out the plugs and do a compression check- make sure to squirt oil in the cylinders first. Any "0" reading=bent valves.
Not the end of the world, but alot more work.
Not the end of the world, but alot more work.
Ok so here is the good news. We didn't skip any teeth. I went home at lunch today and she fired right up. No engine codes, but the RPM was high, @ 1200 RPM at idle. There was also a strong gas smell when idling.
Did I mention I replaced the coolant sensor? The temperature gage was not registering anything so I think the after market sensor I got isn't working, which would account for the rich mixture and the higher RPM.
Calling the dealer to get the part. I'll update you all later.
I really mean this when I say THANK YOU. Since there is very little information on this car except here, it is great know I can come here and get ideas and opinions and that I'm not the only one with problems.
Did I mention I replaced the coolant sensor? The temperature gage was not registering anything so I think the after market sensor I got isn't working, which would account for the rich mixture and the higher RPM.
Calling the dealer to get the part. I'll update you all later.
I really mean this when I say THANK YOU. Since there is very little information on this car except here, it is great know I can come here and get ideas and opinions and that I'm not the only one with problems.
Quote:
Thanks Jondyak - I'll look at that tonight as well. I did while I had it torn down replace all the seals on the valve covers including the spark plug dounuts. But who knows one or two may have been pinched.Originally Posted by jondyak
Take a look at the spark plug wells. They leak oil and cause the same issue with spark jumping to the oil
Thanks All.
Went to the dealer this afternoon and picked up a new temperature sending unit. Put it in, topped off the coolant and fired her up.
She purs like she did when we bought her 4 years ago.
Onto the next problem.
ABS/Traction problem - Could be dirty wheel sensor.
Loud rumble from the rear. I'm thinking hubs or bearings.
Went to the dealer this afternoon and picked up a new temperature sending unit. Put it in, topped off the coolant and fired her up.
She purs like she did when we bought her 4 years ago.
Onto the next problem.
ABS/Traction problem - Could be dirty wheel sensor.
Loud rumble from the rear. I'm thinking hubs or bearings.
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steveinfrance
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Well, I'm more than happy to be wrong.
The rattle may be a lower shock bush. There's a whole thread on it but you make the diagnosis by holding the bush while someone bounces the car - you can feel the clunk.
The idle will be all over the place for a while. You're supposed to do a 'drive cycle' so the car learns the mixture etc. but I get the general impression from other members that it will sort itself out anyway.
The rattle may be a lower shock bush. There's a whole thread on it but you make the diagnosis by holding the bush while someone bounces the car - you can feel the clunk.
The idle will be all over the place for a while. You're supposed to do a 'drive cycle' so the car learns the mixture etc. but I get the general impression from other members that it will sort itself out anyway.
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plums
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So what brand was the bum aftermarket coolant temperature sensor?
Quote:
The rattle may be a lower shock bush. There's a whole thread on it but you make the diagnosis by holding the bush while someone bounces the car - you can feel the clunk.
The idle will be all over the place for a while. You're supposed to do a 'drive cycle' so the car learns the mixture etc. but I get the general impression from other members that it will sort itself out anyway.
Thanks Steve, MEEEE TOOOO.Originally Posted by steveinfrance
Well, I'm more than happy to be wrong.The rattle may be a lower shock bush. There's a whole thread on it but you make the diagnosis by holding the bush while someone bounces the car - you can feel the clunk.
The idle will be all over the place for a while. You're supposed to do a 'drive cycle' so the car learns the mixture etc. but I get the general impression from other members that it will sort itself out anyway.
The rattle is really more a rumble like bad tires, but it isn't tire related. My buddy and I are going to put it up on jack stands tomorrow and spin the rear wheels. I'm really thinking bears, but fear it may be the differencial.

I have already checked the shocks there are fine.
The idle has already settled down, the car is running like a dream. It's starting fine and accelerates like it did when we first got it.
Quote:
It was a BDW 5053Originally Posted by plums
So what brand was the bum aftermarket coolant temperature sensor?
I can't find the website I found the cross reference on but for the cost it just wasn't worth it. Dealer prince was $45 buck, even though it is a $15 part.
Hey guys, So yesterday I put the rear end up on Jack stands, ran the engine about 1200 rpm. Listened to the differential and ther rear hubs.
There is a loud gear whiring noise from the differential. The sad part is there are no parts available to rebuild the differential that I can find.
So I've been searching the net and found one on eBay but it has more milage than my current one.
Before I jump the gun here and spend money I don't need to, how much play is there when you jack up the rear end and start turning one wheel, before the other wheel starts to move?
There is a loud gear whiring noise from the differential. The sad part is there are no parts available to rebuild the differential that I can find.
So I've been searching the net and found one on eBay but it has more milage than my current one.
Before I jump the gun here and spend money I don't need to, how much play is there when you jack up the rear end and start turning one wheel, before the other wheel starts to move?
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There is a vent on the top of the diff that sometimes gets clogged and makes the diff noisy (oil gets foamy?) clean it out and see if it helps. It takes a little ingenuity to remove the cap and clean it but its not hard.
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plums
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If the vent is clogged, there should be signs of gear lube seepage out the seals somewhere at the pinion or side seals.
Don't forget to check and top up the gear lube. It is usually not a case of just clearing the vent ... the lube has already exited.
Don't forget to check and top up the gear lube. It is usually not a case of just clearing the vent ... the lube has already exited.
Thanks guys. I got the bearings ordered yesterday. I'll get under the car this week and check out the differential oil level and vent.
Just curious though, why would the plugged vent cause the oil to get foamy? A plugged vent would cause pressure increasing inside the case so I can understand the oil being forced out around the seals. The foaming comment has me stumped though.
Just curious though, why would the plugged vent cause the oil to get foamy? A plugged vent would cause pressure increasing inside the case so I can understand the oil being forced out around the seals. The foaming comment has me stumped though.