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I recently acquired a non running 2000 Vanden Plas. Prior owner thought it was a X308 but what does that mean? VIN check shows 4.0L V8 SC. So is this an X308?
I think the X308 refers to HP. The problem is that it is not getting fuel. I did verify that the solonoid switches are working and voltage is going to the pumps. When the ignition switch is turned on I don't hear anything. My MG and Healy on both I can hear the fuel pumps come on. Being SC it has two pumps so I would think one should spool up. Should i be able to hear the pump on this car?
The X308 is the later version of the X300 going from a inline 6 jaguar engine to a V8 Jaguar engine under Ford ownership
They operate pretty much the same but are some differences
On the initial rotation of the ignition key the fuel pump will run for 3 seconds only and then shut off by design
if you place your finger on the # 1 fuel pump relay you should feel it click 2 times On - Off
Not until the EMS ( ECU ) sees engine rotation by the CKPS will the relay click back to on with the 3rd click for the duration of your drive , this by safety / crash design
There is a inertia / crash switch that will keep the fuel pump from running and can trip for no reason
There is a specific fuel injector relay that must close to get fuel into the cylinders
With your X308 SC engine only the # 1 fuel pump will come on and not until 4000 RPM will the # 2 pump come on
Since it has been non - running for a while there are some steps for a successful start
Age of the fuel in the tank ?
With the SC engine you will have the MB transmission
Fuel age unknown, probably should pump it out and start over. Car has been inoperable for at least 5 years.
I'll find the fuel injector relay and check it out.
I probably can't hear the fuel pump turn on with the engine cranking.
Ideally you want to establish fuel pump running first with the fuel lines intact as this would mix the old fuel and the slug in the bottom fuel lines bypassing through the fuel pressure regulator back into the tank
We sure he shouldn't drain fuel first, add fresh fuel & injector cleaner, then see to fuel pump function?
As someone who's recently dealt with Old Fuel In Jag Tank syndrome, I don't think Trumpet (or anyone) really wants what may be in that tank to circulate through the fuel rail and to the injectors.
1) Drain tank.
2) Pour in 2 gallons of new fuel & carb/injector cleaner, bounce car on suspension buncha times, drain again.
3) Add maybe 5 gallons of fuel + cleaner, (non-ethanol fuel, if available), jumper fuel pump relays & let run 4 - 5 minutes. Do each separately, figure out if one isn't running.
4) Even if pump 1 isn't running, you can move car on jumpered pump 2. Move it to wherever it's getting its tank dropped & fuel pumps replaced. Yes, both.
WARNING! Drive as little as possible on jumpered fuel pump, you have none of the designed fuel system safety elements in place. If someone smashes head-on into your car, it'll keep pumping fuel into the tangled pile of wrecked cars. Not great.
The above steps will allow what used to be gasoline in your fuel rail to mix with fresh gas in the tank before heading back to injectors.
Believe me, when someone tells you a Jag "hasn't run in, oh...about X years.." it's ALWAYS longer than 'X'. I recently worked on one that had sat unstarted for "a coupla years..." Turned out to be unstarted for over two decades.
There's stale gas...then there's whatever gas distills itself into given enough time. Which absolutely gums up injectors.
Being in California all the pump gas has ethanol up to 15% and causes problems with rubber hoses and seals. I have some 100LL avgas I use for my for my motorcycles and that should work. Lots of great info guys and fantastic pictures. For a newbie like me thats what I need. I did get a 2400 page maintainance manual on a CD that is OK for someone that is familiar with the car, but I am just learning where everything is. I spent hours trying to find the engine and transmission relays as one of those relays controls the injectors. I finally found it in with the ECM. The drawings in the manual I have are focused in a small area so there is little reference as to the location. There are no actual pictures. The relays involved all test good and there is voltage at the switch, but i dont know if the switch actually activates or not. All that stuff is controlled by the ECM it seems. I will follow up with the suggestions and jumper the pump and then drain the system and add the 100LL fuel. No alcohol in avgas!
Now about that fuel filter-- Where is it?. The manual I have shows it in the trunk next to the fuel filler pipe, but it is not there. I want to clean it out and do I need to buy a diffierent kind with O rings?
I poured some fuel down the airvalve and the engine fired up and would run to some degree as long as I kept adding fuel. That was encouraging. With the info I now have I should be able to get this thing running. I like the jumper idea across the relays as that is really simple to do and I can determine if the fuel pump is working.
I'll post a follow up and I sure appreciate all the great pictures and ideas.
Point me to the fuel filter please.
I thought 100LL was 100 Octane Low Lead fuel? If you have cats on the car they will be ruined with any amount of leaded fuel?
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Important point as the aircraft engines need leaded fuel for no predetonation knocking effecting TBO
Going to 87 automotive gas that is unleaded for the aircraft requires retarding the ignition timing to be in modification compliance and a corresponding loss in power
In flight school I rejected and walked away from a aircraft that failed the 50 point drop single magneto check that the 87 automotive gas mod was done
So much for my idea of using 100LL. I didn't think about the lead and the catalytic. I have 20 gallons of 100 LL in four 5 gallon containers. I bought it about 6 months ago before the price hike. I paid $4.65 as I recall.
I have the left rear trunk liner removed, so I am looking at the left rear tire well. I see the gas filler pipe, latch mechanism for the door. there is a small pipe that comes off the filler pipe.and goes to the top of the gas tank and there is a black overflow drain tube. The CD player is back there also, but I just don't see anything that looks like a filter. How big is it? Any pictures available? I would like to clean the filter before shorting across the fuel pump relay and circulating the old gas. Gauge shows about 1/4 full. I downloaded the electrical guide and that will be usefull, thank you for that link.
GEEEEZZZZ Parker never really considered that but makes sense to have fuel transit under the car. You can see I am not into car repair. I like airplanes and motorcycles. This is a new experience for me. Thanks for your patience and help.
OK now I have checked all the fuses in the LH and RH heel board boxes and the relay in the LH box checks out good. The RH relay is missing. Is that to be expected?
I jumpered across the 3 and 5 slots on the #1 relay in the trunk, but nothing happened. I did the same for the #2 relay with same negative results. I did it with the ignition on and off.
I was hoping to hear a fuel pump but it was not to happen. What am I missing?
The big fuse block nuts are very tight. Here is what I did. Your colored diagram shows the #5 FP relay lug to go directly to the pump. I jumpered #5 directly to the positive battery lead. Nothing happened. The 20 amp fuses for each pump are good, so that should turn on the pump. I did it for both pumps. Silence. Are both fuel pumps shot? I measured the resistance across the fuel pump windings and got 2 megs which is way too high for a motor winding. It seems like the motor winding in both pumps is open or the wires to the pumps are broken. I think I will have to pull the gas tank to further evaluate the pumps. Bummer.
Hang On...
