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Originally Posted by King Charles
(Post 1849432)
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I checked the wheel bearings for play, there was none. If the bearings are testing good what else could this rear moaning be ?! Fluid's new,shocks & bushings new,tires new ?! It seems to surface after driving highway speed then making turns.
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Dang KC, this is turning into a dilemma, have you checked this... https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...2/#post1567209
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Originally Posted by Highhorse
(Post 1885702)
Dang KC, this is turning into a dilemma, have you checked this... https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...2/#post1567209
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Jaguar-Vand...8AAOSw~bFWM63P Anyone know the time frame needed to replace the hubs, not the bearings then entire unit. |
Originally Posted by King Charles
(Post 1885494)
I checked the wheel bearings for play, there was none. If the bearings are testing good what else could this rear moaning be ?! [snip]
It seems to surface after driving highway speed then making turns. In my experience you may not be able to detect play in the rear wheel bearings even though they are failing and making noise. Your recording definitely sounds like it could be a rear wheel bearing or possibly a differential output bearing. Is either side of the diff leaking at the output shaft seal?
Originally Posted by King Charles
(Post 1886064)
I may just get new rear hubs in the name of upgrade & noise remedy.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Jaguar-Vand...8AAOSw~bFWM63P Anyone know the time frame needed to replace the hubs, not the bearings then entire unit. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...bdf16c7cbf.png If you could find complete assemblies, you could probably swap the new for old in about an hour and a half per side. It would go faster except installing the components for the handbrake is fiddly as on all drum type brakes. Replacing the bearings doesn't require any special equipment or tools and can be done properly in just a few hours per side. I have photos of the job in my albums at the link in my signature, but I think the large images are still down at Jag-Lovers so only the thumbnails and descriptions are currently visible. The one caveat is that the rear axle nuts are one-time-use only and must be replaced, and you will need a torque wrench capable of measuring up to 250 ft. lbs. to torque them to factory spec. Cheers, Don |
Originally Posted by Don B
(Post 1886583)
Hi King Charles,
In my experience you may not be able to detect play in the rear wheel bearings even though they are failing and making noise. Your recording definitely sounds like it could be a rear wheel bearing or possibly a differential output bearing. Is either side of the diff leaking at the output shaft seal? The parts shown in that eBay auction are just the hubs, part 1 in the diagram below, with no bearings, seals or hub carrier (and they're very expensive too). Here's the exploded diagram for the entire assembly: https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...bdf16c7cbf.png If you could find complete assemblies, you could probably swap the new for old in about an hour and a half per side. It would go faster except installing the components for the handbrake is fiddly as on all drum type brakes. Replacing the bearings doesn't require any special equipment or tools and can be done properly in just a few hours per side. I have photos of the job in my albums at the link in my signature, but I think the large images are still down at Jag-Lovers so only the thumbnails and descriptions are currently visible. The one caveat is that the rear axle nuts are one-time-use only and must be replaced, and you will need a torque wrench capable of measuring up to 250 ft. lbs. to torque them to factory spec. Cheers, Don |
Maybe all you need is grease in those zerk fittings on both sides of the differential . . .
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Originally Posted by Jhartz
(Post 1886919)
Maybe all you need is grease in those zerk fittings on both sides of the differential . . .
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Then they are really dirty: once they find them under the dirt, mud and grime, it is pretty easy to grease them. Had an old Chevy Nova that the first owner never greased the front end, practically took a chisel to clean the fittings to fit the gun . . .
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Had it diagnosed via scope today.
My noise = rear driver's side wheel bearing, the shop said they lack the tools to do it. Something about a calibrator to ensure the bearing's depth is correctly pressed. Not sure I've ever heard that before but whatever lol. |
Originally Posted by King Charles
(Post 1889450)
Had it diagnosed via scope today.
My noise = rear driver's side wheel bearing, the shop said they lack the tools to do it. Something about a calibrator to ensure the bearing's depth is correctly pressed. Not sure I've ever heard that before but whatever lol. The shop may be confused by the end-float specification (0.076mm) and the process given in the Workshop Manual for measuring and adjusting it with shims. In the real world, quality bearings are manufactured with such tight tolerances that most of us just swap the bearings and don't worry about end float. If I can do rear wheel bearings in my home shop, they can do them too. A hydraulic press makes it easier to separate the ABS reluctor/sensor rotor from the end of the hub and to press the hub out of the carrier, but it can usually be done without a press. The large images at Jag-Lovers are still down, but you can see my thumbnails and descriptions here: Rear Wheel Bearings Part 1 of 4 Rear Wheel Bearings Part 2 of 4 Rear Wheel Bearings Part 3 of 4 Rear Wheel Bearings Part 4 of 4 Probably the single most important instruction is that the axle nuts must not be reused. They have a helical insert locking device that deforms when tightened to the final torque of 304-336 Nm (224-248 ft. lbs.), and aparently the insert cannot be relied upon to lock the nut on a second use. At least two members of the Jag-Lovers forum reported that their axle nuts came loose while driving after reusing the old nuts! Cheers, Don |
Originally Posted by Don B
(Post 1889565)
Hi King Charles,
The shop may be confused by the end-float specification (0.076mm) and the process given in the Workshop Manual for measuring and adjusting it with shims. In the real world, quality bearings are manufactured with such tight tolerances that most of us just swap the bearings and don't worry about end float. If I can do rear wheel bearings in my home shop, they can do them too. A hydraulic press makes it easier to separate the ABS reluctor/sensor rotor from the end of the hub and to press the hub out of the carrier, but it can usually be done without a press. The large images at Jag-Lovers are still down, but you can see my thumbnails and descriptions here: Rear Wheel Bearings Part 1 of 4 Rear Wheel Bearings Part 2 of 4 Rear Wheel Bearings Part 3 of 4 Rear Wheel Bearings Part 4 of 4 Probably the single most important instruction is that the axle nuts must not be reused. They have a helical insert locking device that deforms when tightened to the final torque of 304-336 Nm (224-248 ft. lbs.), and aparently the insert cannot be relied upon to lock the nut on a second use. At least two members of the Jag-Lovers forum reported that their axle nuts came loose while driving after reusing the old nuts! Cheers, Don Thanks ! |
Rear wheel bearings replaced, it cured my "knock" but the howling/moaning on turns is still there. I really wish someone sold a refurbished rear sub-fame. I'd buy one easily, over having to go through the whole set-up piece by piece.
New shocks & mounts New tires Differential fluid changed Replaced bearings The saga continues. |
Originally Posted by King Charles
(Post 1893404)
Rear wheel bearings replaced, it cured my "knock" but the howling/moaning on turns is still there.
I think you have to suspect the differential output shaft bearings. Oil leaking from one side is a clue that the bearing is failing. If you don't have any leaks, you can either get the car on a lift, or securely chock the front wheels and put the rear end up on jack stands. Start the engine and carefully put the transmission in Drive. While standing or laying beside the car, probe the sides of the diff with a mechanic's stethoscope, taking care not to touch any rotating parts with the stethoscope or yourself. By this method you can often hear a grinding diff output bearing. Please keep us informed. Cheers, Don |
Originally Posted by Don B
(Post 1893545)
Hi King Charles,
I think you have to suspect the differential output shaft bearings. Oil leaking from one side is a clue that the bearing is failing. If you don't have any leaks, you can either get the car on a lift, or securely chock the front wheels and put the rear end up on jack stands. Start the engine and carefully put the transmission in Drive. While standing or laying beside the car, probe the sides of the diff with a mechanic's stethoscope, taking care not to touch any rotating parts with the stethoscope or yourself. By this method you can often hear a grinding diff output bearing. Please keep us informed. Cheers, Don When I had the rear diff. fluid changed, no leaks were detected. I see the used output shafts on E-Bay both cost less than the bearing lol. How intricate is it to replace the whole shaft unit instead of the bearing. Thanks ! Edit : This howling started about a month after I had the rear differential oil changed. So I'm going to have it back up on a rack & the rear differential inspected thoroughly for leaks/seepage. I'm not sure the breather was properly cleaned off during that either so I will have that done. |
This may be a silly question...but are you sure the correct fluid was put in? To check if it was topped up, just remove the plug and put your pinky in and you should be able to touch it.
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Originally Posted by Highhorse
(Post 1893591)
This may be a silly question...but are you sure the correct fluid was put in? To check if it was topped up, just remove the plug and put your pinky in and you should be able to touch it.
I'll have the rear differential inspected hopefully tomorrow that being, check for leaks,breather clearence & fluid level. |
I'm not dead sure, but I'm pretty positive its supposed to be synthetic 75-140.
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Originally Posted by Highhorse
(Post 1893605)
I'm not dead sure, but I'm pretty positive its supposed to be synthetic 75-140.
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Originally Posted by King Charles
(Post 1893608)
Never had issues running Redline 75w90 w/ my previous 308s, but changing the oil again is a cheap option compared to throwing more parts at it for sure.
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