New noise
 

Distinct moaning from the rear when I make a turn or sharp curve @ speed, seems more pronounced if I give it gas in the curve/turn.

Not a real abrasive sound it's really a moaning sound, I will try & video it tonight. Any usual suspects back there to address ?!

Tires are new & rear diff. oil was changed 700 miles ago

The game is afoot lol.

Well that was a swift turn of events trying to record the noises lol ! I'd just filled my car up from a different than norm station(same brand & grade of fuel). I'd let the fuel get way lower than normal I usually fill up @ quarter of a tank & it was near the red mark on the gauge this time.

First start from filling I got a rough idle that cleared only to render "Restricted Performance". I pulled over cleared errors w/ the torque app & it's been smooth sailing since. I gather my low fuel situation stirred up some debris from the bottom of the tank couple that w/ suspect fuel from a new fuel source. Here's the codes I pulled after the "RP" event P0300,P1316,P1111. Thinking it may be time to do plugs/coils ?!

Well I did capture the moaning noise on turns during all that. The steering wheel is also making a reeling/whining noise that's new, so I suspect they are all steering related. I will check the power steering fluid a bit later tonight.

1st video is the noise on turning & curves. The moan/drone @ about 2 seconds to 5. Of course I had to battle a sneeze/sniffle right when it begins lol.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1XR5...ew?usp=sharing


2nd video's the steering wheel's reeling noise w/ me sitting still moving the wheel.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1qyz...ew?usp=sharing

Any clues from the wise & venerable clan here ?!

Update :

Just checked power steering fluid it was low & very muddy/cruddy looking. I turkey baster'ed out as I could & added new Lucas. The sitting still steering squeal from vid #2 appears gone. But alas as I solve one problem , another surfaces lol. I close the hood & the driver's side refuses to catch, I inspect to find what appears to be a shattered receptacle/catch cup ?

https://s9.postimg.org/tijumcu4v/IMG..._025909004.jpg

Let's hope on the next drive that the groan/moan on turn's a forgotten memory. But either way that PS fluid was so heavy w/ debris it looked as if it had graphite suspended in it, so it will be flushed & replaced. My serpentine belt tensioner & pulley have also been acting up prior to this & due to be replaced soon, so maybe it's all relative. Was semi-dreading whilst reading all the wheel bearing etc. threads w/ similar symptoms, so hoping mine's all power steering affiliated.

It is a bitch when these things get old.

I can feel your pain from here. Lucas makes a power steering oil enhancer that does a nice job of lubing the seals. Quieted my Jag's and on the Range Rover.

WD 40 or Amzoil's equivalent will quiet the clock spring.

Try greasing the zerk fittings on each side of the differential to quiet the noise from the rear on turns; maybe renew the diff oil; bearings?

KC, have you checked your propshaft bearing strap? Your bearing may be ok, but it may be the rubber grommet that holds it in place. Check how mine was torn when I did my bearing. https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...g-info-188400/ ...didn't you just do your flex disc's? If not, check them also...again in that link for what mine looked like.

Have you checked this TSB for the steering... https://www.dropbox.com/s/njtwx7lm09...tling.pdf?dl=0

The power steering fluid refresh has solved my turning noises for now lol.

The steering spring noise has returned, mine is just like this member's scenario linked below, so I will follow suite.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-noise-157575/

Mine :
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1qyz...6Hg841uPU/view

Edit :

Any threads on opening up the air bags to lube it's holding springs, thanks.

If I remember right, there's two bolts that hold it in place, look on the back of the wheel as you point it at 3 and 9 oclock to expose each one. Disconnect the battery and let it sit a few minutes first!

I know there's a TSB on this because I've read it. It may not be on site, but possibly on the Jagrepair.com site.

Lots of threads on removing the steering wheel: try searching with keywords (maybe on Google too, seems to work better for finding stuff on this forum): steering wheel removal X308, multifunction switch (where my writeup is, I think); X308 airbag . . . .

I tried searching for Airbag removal and Divorce came up....:icon_banana: :icon_tongue: :icon_flamethrow:

Sound about right lol.

Been there . . . four times, but who'se counting?

Dang....I learned after the 1st time :icon_slap:

Alimony x 2 is no fun either, my wallet needed an airbag mechanism to keep attorneys from crashing into it lol. "but who'se counting?" the answer is, lawyers lol !

But back on the subject @ hand I read my noise is likely the springs(not clock spring) that hold the air bag are dry & making noise when the steering wheel turns. But from the great pics below I don't see what to lube ?!

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-noise-157575/

https://clockspring.shutterfly.com/pictures/8


https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...93d4b6dcb0.png

Have you tried moving it as you disassembled it to determine the cause? I had a piece of paper (unknownly) fall into my column behind the wheel on my Corvette. It drove me nuts and job I did not want to do. After I pulled the wheel off, it fell out, I checked the rotation and the noise was gone. It was one of those, grrrrrr moments, but a simple resolution. Otherwise I may had torn down the column completely since I had just installed new signal/cruise switches.

Well the moaning is back & it's always brought about after I drive a certain road, haunted lol ?!

Turning @ a very slow speed no noise, any speed it's howling.

Here is another video.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1QJA...ew?usp=sharing

Fluid's topped off, so not sure what it is as of yet.

The 4 pozi screws, remove them and you can access the springs, they're sat under the horn push alloy bars.

Thanks, now onto the howling rear end on turns, I'm going to go with rear wheel bearings.

See the kits on E-Bay but about how long of a job is this .

Recommend not going cheap on the bearing and get the real brand deal and torque properly

Looking @ these.


https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...7ca0b85b90.jpg

TIMKEN, that'll do nicely! Fitted to Jags for over 60 years - I'd call that OEM ;)

I checked the wheel bearings for play, there was none. If the bearings are testing good what else could this rear moaning be ?! Fluid's new,shocks & bushings new,tires new ?! It seems to surface after driving highway speed then making turns.

Dang KC, this is turning into a dilemma, have you checked this... https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...2/#post1567209

Indeed my quest to be noise free is arduous lol. I may just get new rear hubs in the name of upgrade & noise remedy.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Jaguar-Vand...8AAOSw~bFWM63P


Anyone know the time frame needed to replace the hubs, not the bearings then entire unit.

Hi King Charles,

In my experience you may not be able to detect play in the rear wheel bearings even though they are failing and making noise. Your recording definitely sounds like it could be a rear wheel bearing or possibly a differential output bearing. Is either side of the diff leaking at the output shaft seal?

The parts shown in that eBay auction are just the hubs, part 1 in the diagram below, with no bearings, seals or hub carrier (and they're very expensive too). Here's the exploded diagram for the entire assembly:

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...bdf16c7cbf.png


If you could find complete assemblies, you could probably swap the new for old in about an hour and a half per side. It would go faster except installing the components for the handbrake is fiddly as on all drum type brakes.

Replacing the bearings doesn't require any special equipment or tools and can be done properly in just a few hours per side. I have photos of the job in my albums at the link in my signature, but I think the large images are still down at Jag-Lovers so only the thumbnails and descriptions are currently visible.

The one caveat is that the rear axle nuts are one-time-use only and must be replaced, and you will need a torque wrench capable of measuring up to 250 ft. lbs. to torque them to factory spec.

Cheers,

Don

No leaks visible & I think I'm going to just do the rear bearings & see if that remedies it.

Maybe all you need is grease in those zerk fittings on both sides of the differential . . .

That was my 1st thought as well, the local "suspension" shop here put it on the rack & said they couldn't see how to grease the zerks lol ?!

Then they are really dirty: once they find them under the dirt, mud and grime, it is pretty easy to grease them. Had an old Chevy Nova that the first owner never greased the front end, practically took a chisel to clean the fittings to fit the gun . . .

Had it diagnosed via scope today.

My noise = rear driver's side wheel bearing, the shop said they lack the tools to do it. Something about a calibrator to ensure the bearing's depth is correctly pressed. Not sure I've ever heard that before but whatever lol.

Hi King Charles,

The shop may be confused by the end-float specification (0.076mm) and the process given in the Workshop Manual for measuring and adjusting it with shims. In the real world, quality bearings are manufactured with such tight tolerances that most of us just swap the bearings and don't worry about end float.

If I can do rear wheel bearings in my home shop, they can do them too. A hydraulic press makes it easier to separate the ABS reluctor/sensor rotor from the end of the hub and to press the hub out of the carrier, but it can usually be done without a press.

The large images at Jag-Lovers are still down, but you can see my thumbnails and descriptions here:

Rear Wheel Bearings Part 1 of 4
Rear Wheel Bearings Part 2 of 4
Rear Wheel Bearings Part 3 of 4
Rear Wheel Bearings Part 4 of 4

Probably the single most important instruction is that the axle nuts must not be reused. They have a helical insert locking device that deforms when tightened to the final torque of 304-336 Nm (224-248 ft. lbs.), and aparently the insert cannot be relied upon to lock the nut on a second use. At least two members of the Jag-Lovers forum reported that their axle nuts came loose while driving after reusing the old nuts!

Cheers,

Don

Yes I just chalked it up to them being unfamiliar w/ Jags, I have it going to another shop whose well versed w/ my model next week for the bearing job. I also have the one use axle nut/ JZN100035 on hand as well.

Thanks !

Rear wheel bearings replaced, it cured my "knock" but the howling/moaning on turns is still there. I really wish someone sold a refurbished rear sub-fame. I'd buy one easily, over having to go through the whole set-up piece by piece.

New shocks & mounts
New tires
Differential fluid changed
Replaced bearings

The saga continues.

Hi King Charles,

I think you have to suspect the differential output shaft bearings. Oil leaking from one side is a clue that the bearing is failing. If you don't have any leaks, you can either get the car on a lift, or securely chock the front wheels and put the rear end up on jack stands. Start the engine and carefully put the transmission in Drive. While standing or laying beside the car, probe the sides of the diff with a mechanic's stethoscope, taking care not to touch any rotating parts with the stethoscope or yourself. By this method you can often hear a grinding diff output bearing.

Please keep us informed.

Cheers,

Don

It's really sporadic & only on turns & curves. I mean some days it doesn't even surface at all.

When I had the rear diff. fluid changed, no leaks were detected. I see the used output shafts on E-Bay both cost less than the bearing lol. How intricate is it to replace the whole shaft unit instead of the bearing.

Thanks !

Edit :

This howling started about a month after I had the rear differential oil changed. So I'm going to have it back up on a rack & the rear differential inspected thoroughly for leaks/seepage. I'm not sure the breather was properly cleaned off during that either so I will have that done.

This may be a silly question...but are you sure the correct fluid was put in? To check if it was topped up, just remove the plug and put your pinky in and you should be able to touch it.

Redline 75w90 was used for sure as I bought it, that's what I ran in my previous X308s w/ no issues.

I'll have the rear differential inspected hopefully tomorrow that being, check for leaks,breather clearence & fluid level.

I'm not dead sure, but I'm pretty positive its supposed to be synthetic 75-140.

Never had issues running Redline 75w90 w/ my previous 308s, but changing the oil again is a cheap option compared to throwing more parts at it for sure.

According to the Workshop Manual, the diff oil should be Shell Spirax Super TS 90 so 75w90 should be fine. I have almost completely cured moaning in a few differentials by adding Moly Slip 2001G. You can give it a try.