Thanks Daniel,
It reads 11,9V now after quite a bit of key turning and testing and so on.
My Westfield is happy with 10V, but it doesn't have electric anything.
Will do as you suggest and get it tested. I can still open the trunk with the key right?
Better test that before I pull the battery.

Also: apologies above, I meant to ask Sean B, HighwayStar, Avos, Steveinfrance and any other European members, if they can recommend a battery. Nothing against our colleagues on far-flung shores. I'm often jealous of the wealth of automotive HW available to you guys, but unfortunately it's a bit of a long trip :-)

Lincoln

 

I always used Varta for the no quibble guarantee. Bosch are also the same battery and come out of Varta's factory. They seem to be easy to get near me.

Type 017 Varta Black Dynamic Car Battery 12V 90Ah (Short Code: F6) (Varta DIN: 590 122 072) - Car Batteries - Varta Car Batteries

 

Thanks Sean. I'll pick one of those up and see what happens.

Cheers.

Lincoln

 

Update: battery is on order, should come in 1-2 days. Easier to get it delivered than lug a 20kg battery up the road.
Also one more thing, I noticed the light on my PLX Kiwi flashes every so slightly, so maybe there is just not enough juice getting through to the OBD port to drive the diagnostics device.

We shall see in a few days, for now thanks to everyone who helped!!

Cheers

Lincoln
(now riding the bus to work, like some eco-warrior)

 

After the horse has bolted
Énorme stock de batterie pour voitures | Batteries pas cher
are very competitive - free delivery but pretty much the same price as the one you ordered.

 

Merci beaucoup Steve, it will at least give me a chance to practice my French.
:-)

 

This one has made its way into the trunk of my Daimler two months ago. I was a little bit worried as it replaced a 110Ah battery. But it does its job very well. No starting problems any more in those uncomfortably cold mornings we had recently.

So I second Sean's suggestion.

 

Thanks Ralf, Sean, I went for a Silver Dynamic 100AH as it was not much more and I figured more AH won't be worse.

And I installed it today, measured prior to install, putting out a pre-charged Varta approved 12.5V, great.
Then installed and...... no change whatsoever, still get the gearbox fault, engine failsafe mode, and incorrect part fitted.

So, let's begin again.
Above symptoms, and weird flickering on the OBD reader light.
I think it could still be a voltage issue.
How do I test sufficient voltage to TCM, to linear switch, etc?

What is the interrogation sequence on start-up? How can I get the bugger to start?

And can anyone confirm the position of the interia switch on a 98?

Thanks,

Lincoln, who is gonna rent a car for the rest of the week, as I don't see this going anywhere all that soon....

 

the inertia switch is in the off position when clicked down, it pops up if the cars had a bump.
12.5V is as it should be, no voltage issue with a new battery. Good.

You've checked both black heavy duty cables and connections under the bonnet, one attached to the brake servo housing with a brass nut, and the other that run to, and link to the two fuse boxes under the bonnet, (by unbolting and cleaning the ring connectors, post and nuts for good connection)

You've also confirmed a good engine to chassis earth, it's located under the car between the body and gearbox bell housing and back of the engine block?

You've confirmed volts at starter/solenoid with ignition on?

You've confirmed ignition relay is good?

The ABS module can throw incorrect part if not seated/connected correctly, but I think that's a remote possibility, try refitting after checking connector, WD40?

Maybe try the JTIS resetting of the selector linear switch.

 

I found the locations and reset procedure of the inertia cut-off switch on the internet:
-Pull the carpet back in the right hand footwell, reach behind the footwell side plate on the right and you will find a black, cylindrical device with a rubber top. Press down on the rubber top with your finger and the device is then reset.
-The inertia fuel switch is located in the right hand lower A post on the 1998-2003 and inside the left hand A post on the 2003-2009 XJ.

Try to check the brake switch, I don't know how easy to remove it. I still think that something in the J gate zone is wrong.

 

Guys,

I have checked that the relays for ignition and starter solenoid are ok.
Removed all 5 relays from the TCM/ECM compartment and tested in the horn socket --> all go beep
Replaced

I measure no 12V switching voltage on the starter solenoid when ignition is set to ON, or Start. the 12 V load is present.

So, the way I see it, the car does not give an OK to start signal.
I've spared myself measuring 12V at the starter, as I don't fit under the car and if the starter solenoid relay does not switch, why would there be 12V down there?

OK, back to the interia switch, I finally found it. Its basically in the furtherest outside corner of the passenger footwell and not integral to the BPM. pressed and pressed, no reset was necessary, so no change there.

No, whilst looking at the gear selector lever, I decided to measure the voltage on the pins going to the dual linear switch.
The white and slate pin has 12V (12.2/12.3V for those watching my battery ;-) )
If i plug it in and measure the voltage on the red and slate it seems to correlate to "P or N", so 0 in reverse or drive, about 9.7V in park or N.
The red and blue wire seems to have 11.3V in Park and reverse, and 0 in Drive or Neutral. Which I thought was weird.

And if I remove the plug, so no connection to the dual linear switch, the blue and red has 11.3V on it. More weird.
So, I'm going to trace where that comes from and also remove the dual linear switch to figure out if it is working as it should.
The little clicker switch which makes it beep if its out of park, works.

Also on an unrelated note, I just realized I have CATS. Yay!
But also that my suspension mount bushing is not in great nick. that might explain the poor damping over bumps.

So thanks for the tips, and Sean, the open actions from your list will get completed as soon as the snow thaws, we had about 10 inches in the last 2 days.

Cheers

Lincoln

 

Don't know what voltages you should read, but attached is the electrical diagram for your car, where you can see what it should do (these are all on the jtis bytheway).

Have you already checked for codes, it may help as well to find where something is wrong.

Might also be a communication problem on the can-bus, which can be caused by cabling issue (less likely), inertia switch (well you checked that one), or a faulty unit (possibly the gear selector lever unit, most likely I guess for now).

Attach a file isn't working...
You can find the electrical diagram in folder DATA\jwj1998en for your car, its a large pdf file.

 

Thanks Andre,

I've been using the one one Captain Jaguars site
http://www.captainjaguarscathouse.co...ec%20Guide.pdf

The issue I think is that there is that voltage on the pin to the dual linear switch, which should be an output from the switch.
So I'm going to figure out why the BPM should put that voltage out.

Lincoln

 

Which pin is this on the PDF?

You might now want to consider a diagnose with an IDS (/wds, the dealer tool), that will give you more info on what units can be reached and possibly codes you can't see now (I'll take it you don't get any codes now?). It can also show what is working in the sequence to starting.

 

Hmm. Right Mare's breakfast your car's wiring.
It looks as if you need to ground the RU wire (from the BPM) AND the RS wire (from the ECM).
As you say these are inputs but work by having a voltage on them which is grounded when the relevant switch closes.
It is possible the voltage may not be 100% supply - I'm a bit surprised it isn't +5V.
The other thing the finger might be pointing at is the key transponder module - here's a link to test the exciter ring
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...er-ring-53165/

 

Andre,

its pin CC8-4 out of the Dual Linear Switch to FC15-7 on the BPM. (see page 37 fig 3.2).
This is clearly supposed to be an output of the DLS and an input to the BPM, voltage on this wire when removed from the DLS doesn't make sense.
And I measure 7.3V constanly on the Gearshift Interlock Solenoid CC12-1 driven by FC15-48 on the BPM. (see page 48 fig 5.3)
Don't know what its like in Switzerland, but here there are often Stone Martens and Weasels and such, which chew wires, I see a common thread with FC15 on the BPM, maybe there is some shorting there putting weird voltages on cables. I wil remove glovebox and trace the RU wire out of the Dual Linear switch and try find its mysterious 11V source.

Also, just reviewing the charts here in the office, if I just short the starter relay, then the starter should start, right? All the BPM and Cranking Module interlocks are prior to this. I won't get fuel to start but at least it should turn over.

I will try this as soon as I get back to the car.

I don't get any codes as I cannot connect to the OBD. my flickering light was 2 bent pins on the OBD reader, corrected that and get full lighted up PLX Kiwi, but cannot connect to the ECU. Will trace this signal in the electrical guide too.
For reference the ADAC man's OBD reader also didn't read anything.
As to IDS/ WDS, even getting the car to the dealer is a PITA as it doesn't start.

THanks

Lincoln

 

Read my post ! Look at your diagram with the red arrow - the other side of the switch goes to ground not +12V.
Shorting the starter relay will make the starter turn the engine over but it won't start. of course.

 

Thanks Steve,
I'm afraid I am tremendously old school when it comes to car electronics. For me 12V is on, any other voltage is off :-)
But one point I will make is that the RU and RS pins behave differently, so one has voltage on it when the harness is removed and one doesn't. May not be relevant maybe that's the way its supposed to be.
The RS puts out a voltage when in P or N, and 0V when in D or R. I figured that was "normal".

I will try check the exciter ring, from reading the posts it seems that others had starting issues in the past which deteriorated. Mine always started like a champ, then one day nothing. But its another thing to check. Should also be checkable at the input to BPM FC15-39 or output from transponder FC22-16.

Lincoln

 

My guess is that one opens and the other closes as a safety thing.
There is a TSB on the mediafire site about replacing the linear switch on the 2000 MY cars but it doesn't seem to apply to yours.
Just to confuse things more if you scroll down to 'Transmission' on the wiring pdf you'll see there's another set of outputs from the switch to the TCM.
These DO seem to switch to the 12v supply you found there.

BTW - can you hear the fuel pumps when you turn the key?

 

Just go to the page Control Module Pin Out Information for figure 03.2, there you will see how they behave (and they are indeed behaving opposite).


Then it could be more a network issue then something else, so maybe there is something wrong with the CAN bus. The instrument cluster will show all the faults you mentioned it can't communicate to the main modules.

You can check the resistance between the cables (between the modules), though I can't remember by hart the value (either 60 or 120 ohm between the + and - cable), but am sure someone else knows.

It may also be 1 module in line causing an issue on the CAN bus, i.e. like the gear selector (sits between the engine ECU and the Instrument cluster as you can see on the drawings).