Car's in for paint as I type, when it's through I plan on tackling the following tasks (well not me but a trusted associate lol).

T-Stat aluminum housing kit : I've read on this forum how a 8mm crow's foot will make it much easier. What other tips & preventive maintenance can I have done while that's being serviced, which hoses are easy access during that etc. Pretty sure this will remedy my every 5-6 week low coolant issue.

ABS Module Solder : I've had my guy looking @ the YT videos & I don't anticipate any problems. He's sure he can do it without disconnecting the brake lines.

Sensen Front & Rear shocks : Bought both pairs along w/ mounts for the front, any tips on making this easier is appreciated.

Rear Differential oil changed : I have 2 quarts of Redline 75w90 gl-5 gear oil which I ran in my last X308 & anticipate no problems.


I'm curious if these can all be completed in one day or should I plan for a weekend of it.

Thanks

 

Mainly the only thing I can talk about would be the shocks. And that's not much different than you would find already, and likely have. The fronts are cake. Even more so with new mounts. It's very simply a "jack the car up, unscrew the top and bottom, and pull the old out. Put the new one, and done.

The rear however, I would also suggest looking into all new mounts and pads and such for back there, because you don't want to have to do that more than once. You have to drop the rear subframe (or at the least, bend quite a bit) to get the clearance and get to the shock mount to replace the shock. I've gotten it down to about a 3-4 hour job on stands and with hand tools and stuff, but it's one of those jobs that you would just like to do once and not do again. And on that note, make sure you buy quality parts, to minimize the likelihood of a repeat.

There's not much I can suggest to make it "easier" in the rear, but just be methodical and follow the DIY's that are on here, and go step by step and it goes fine. It's just tedious to have to remove so much just to get to the upper mount.

 

I've found the mounts, what are the pads you speak of.

Thanks

 

The shocks should come with the shock mount bushings (little foam donuts) that look similar to the upper shock bushings in the front. There's also a big foam donut that sits between the top of the spring, and the spring seat, in the back. I forget what it's called, but that's worth doing while in there, they tend to deteriorate about as quick as the shock mounts, and you're already there. Spring isolator or something. Part 5 here https://www.jaguarclassicparts.com/u...-fittings-rear

 

Yeah it's Spring Coil Isolator, just found them cheers !

 

T-Stat aluminum housing kit :
Just replace the plastic cross over pipe, and the short hose in front of the tower if not done recently.
I carefully broke down the old plastic tower using a big grip, and a rag into the hole to prevent stuff falling into the system.
After that, you can reach the rear 2 bolts easily.
I was one of the people who had to lift the intake manifold a tat, no way one bolt was coming out without it.
Just a 10 min extra job, not worth cutting bolts and have a mess.
I installed the new tower with Allen head bolts, the rear ones 5 mm shorter then what came out, easy peasy installation with an angled Allen key.
Oh yeah, I painted the tower black before install, looks sooo much better.

Sensen Front & Rear shocks :
Fronts are as said, not difficult, just remove the upper shocks before re-installation of the shocks.
You will change them anyway, and it gives way more wiggle room.
An be careful not to lower the suspension too much while removing the shocks, keep an eye on the steering bar.

For the rear, drop the A frame is my advice.
It is a bit more work, but allows you to remove the shocks without compressors, a big advantage as there is very little room.
And check you have a 7mm Allen key, I presume you have it already while doing the bearings.

There is a PDF file from blackonyx on the exact procedures, perfect guide.
Shout if you can't find them.

 

Thanks ! Yes I have that guide bookmarked as well.

 

King Charles, do you by coincidence have the Sensen part numbers available?

I have a friend here who bought them wrongly, as he has active suspension, and I want to cross check the usability on one of the normal X308's here.

 

Replace the rubber lower spring seats. They are easy to tear when removing the springs.

 

Manufacturer Part Number:
3213-0156, 1213-0274

Here's the item's link it also has cross reference #'s listed as well.

Sensen Front & Rear Shocks Struts for 98-03 Jaguar XJR, NEW, Lifetime Warranty | eBay

 

It is a bear of a job, but you don't have to drop the rear subframe or bend it. I did it here: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...8/#post1384521 using a screw driven spring compressor.

Agree with the advice about doing everything there with quality parts while you are in there. The thread with the post in the previous paragraph has lots of info about the rears.

-Mike

 

Very true, I wasn't thinking about the spring compressor route (mainly because I don't have one so I've always gone the other way)

 

I do not agree there .
It is actually very doable if you take your time, and of course if you you don't encounter seized bolts.

And from having seen it, been at it, and considering the different working methods, I still recommend to drop the A frame.
It is just 10 bolts more (of which 2 are a bit tight spaced).
Then you don't have to deal with a loaded spring, and on the left side, don't have the risk on damaging the fuel lines with the tensioner.

I took a part of the afternoon to jack up the car, and to remove the A frame, and put everything in penetration oil.
Then the next day changed the shocks.
First (right side) one took me 3 hours plus, mainly as I needed to go out to buy a 7mm Allen key, but the left side I did within 2 hours (still including coffee time).
Bolting the rest up was breach.

 

If doing the "drop the A frame" method how do you unload the springs (without a compressor)? Load hub carrier with jack, unbolt the lower shock eyelet, carefully lower? That was the one thing I didn't see when looking through the guide pdf for doing rear shocks.

 

Yes, hydraulic jack under the carrier then lower.

 

These are the last things on my "Jag To-Do List" of note it was 12 items when first purchased. It will all be done in the coming days I'm pleased lol.

 

Ok front shocks & mounts,T-Stat done.

Someone should sale whole shock kits including everything : shocks,mounts,bushings,boots/bellows etc.

Kind of a hassle having to track down these miscellaneous bushings.