Think the pictures show there's been a lot of work (and busted knuckles) getting it all cleaned up. I had a really lucky drop on the new gearbox, think I've mentioned it in another post, but I got this for £400 + Tax (£480), it has only done 35k miles. Basically, the car stood a lot of the time, until a lorry backed into it and wrote it off, bad luck for the owner, heaven sent for me! I managed to get 'loads' of spares off this written off car, though the engine is still there, and ran mint... until I took the gearbox anyway.

Some more pictures:



I even got the rubber mats and cleaned them up, front & back pictures but shows the 'before & after':




Can't see it in the picture but there's a new Jurid coupling on the new gearbox too. Hope the last 2 posts meet with approval, I just like things clean and easy to work on.

Will update with more pictures once I do the Oil Cooler Pipe MODS mentioned earlier, and when the beast is back in the car.

Paul

 

Are rubber mats a UK thing? I'd love some rubber mats in my car, easier to clean, and I'd feel less bad about tracking mud onto them, even if the rubber doesn't look as pretty. Don't think I've seen any in the junker XJ's or any others I've sat in.

 

Same here, they are meant as a functional device then made less functionally out of carpet. I remember on the CorvetteForum, people would buy Lloyd's Mats then buy mat protectors. They're floor mats! They're carpet protectors...

 

After doing the correct way by fitting a new pipe and removing the engine and co, I'll go easy way next time... And just scrap the car.

 

You do have to ask that question, ....is it really worth the effort? ...or is it just cheaper and easier to get another?

 

That is beautiful work, Paul, and surely worth the time, money and broken knuckes!

And start all over again, with new problems coming up?
Don't think so.

Our cars are slowly getting old / classic, certainly in relative harsh climates as the UK.
Once you have gone through the work of re-welding the body, and doing the suspension, an engine out for some necessary repairs is a no-brainer, even if it is a hell of a lot of work.

 

I agree, but not everyone keeps there's like we do. I'm getting ready to put flex discs on mine just because they are probably due.

 

That's the thing. If my car hadn't started today, I would have decided to take it apart... But my prayer to Sir William Lyons seemed to help...

Time to change my religion!

 

Your work looks amazing Paul,a very clean engine/gearbox indeed.
Good Luck.
A.J.P.

 

Many thanks for the nice comments. I can accept some might ask "is it worth it" to do the work on the car that I've spent hours doing, but to me it is. We see every day people telling us about their work, a neat trick, an easy way to do an often difficult job, and how proud they are of their car and their achievements. I believe that this Forum owes its continued existence to those who care and value their cars, surely not all we read here is just to get something fixed... thanks... goodbye? I hope the Forum is about much more than that?

So then, if we value our cars so much, why wouldn't we take the time to make it, and keep it, as good as possible? From my own perspective I get a lot of satisfaction from knowing I stripped something down that was broken, cleaned it, fixed it, and now it's back in and running like a nose, and looking as best as it can... am I wrong? These aren't the more 'common' cars you find running around, they have a heritage, a reputation for being a 'cut above' most other brands.

Only my own perspective and thoughts of course, I don't wish to open a can of worms about what's right and what's a waste of time, but keeping a car you're proud of clean and well maintained has to be the goal of a true enthusiast?

 

I agree totaly Paul,I get a lot of satifaction from looking after something so beautiful,every part of the car should treated with pride,all the little things I do I just love it.
Keep up the good work mate
Take Care
Andy

 

Thanks Andy, I believe it makes a difference when you can share your efforts with fellow enthusiasts, I wish I could thank all the people in one go who have helped me understand my car better, and those who give their time and experience to help others. So many times I've been pulled out of a mess, and I dare say I wouldn't have achieved the finished engine etc without that help and advice. What is it they say "never was so much owed, by so many, to so few" lol.

 

The engine's back in the car and all 'plumbed in'. With a fully charged battery, and turning over for the 1st time, the engine seemed to fire but wouldn't start, after many tries I feared something was wrong with connections. Torque Pro threw up a P1336 CKP Sensor fault, so I started looking around the forum for answers.

P1336 fault could be the Crank Sensor as my reader said, but now I see it could also be the Cam Sensor, how do I find out which is at fault? Sticking with what my code reader was saying (CKP Sensor) I traced the wires from the sensor back to where they disappear somewhere behind the A/C Compressor. I believe I can feel the connector on the end of the wires, but I'm not totally sure as I can't actually see it.. ( I wish I had known about this fault before putting the engine back in, that would have been sooo much easier!). Is it possible I could have damaged the position sensor in some way when fitting the new gearbox as it's perilously close to where the CKP Sensor is? Or is there something I should have done when fitting a new gearbox?

Do I have to remove the compressor to get at this connector, so I can remove the CKP Sensor and check it? HOW do I check it even after I've got it out?

Maybe there's different ways the problem has appeared, or it could be coincidental and I just need a new sensor, that's not so bad if I can find out how to get at it and check if it needs a new one? All this is assuming the fault is the Crank Sensor and not a Cam Sensor

My last question is for the Forum Moderator(s). As I continue to improve my car to one that will last, this thread is getting very long. Should I start a new thread or keep this one going for continuity?

Oh.. the joys of owning a Jaguar....

 

Paul,

Very interesting to follow your progress. It's logical to keep this thread going rather than start a new one.

Graham

 

I mus ask for forgiveness for the long post, but yet again I need expert advice, I've checked the Forum only to find that my symptoms seem to be somewhat vague. As you know from below, I removed my engine and gearbox in order to replace the gearbox, change the oil cooler pipes, and also some cleaning/tidying up, you've seen the pictures below.

Throughout the work I did, the ‘internal’ workings of the engine remained untouched. I did make one mistake, I fitted the gearbox without lining up the ‘Orange Dot’ on the flywheel, and the ‘Blue Dot’ on the Torque Converter. Following the relevant , I quickly unbolted the gearbox again and refitted it correctly, this was all done with the engine and gearbox still out of the car and in my garage. With everything back in the car and connected up, all that remained was to recharge/regas the A/C, but I could see no reason why I couldn't try to start the engine?

I tried and tried, the engine seemed to fire at first but wouldn't run, so I did a DTC check. According to my device I had a CKP error, “P1336 – Crankshaft Position Sensor - too much Air Gap, debris, or connection failure”. I couldn’t understand this, the sensor had not been touched?

The next day I used my device to clear all faults registered in the ECU, tried starting again, checked for errors and got “No DTC’s found”, I also tested using Torque Pro and got “no errors”, but the car wouldn’t start. Then it suddenly began to spin over really fast, and I had a horrible suspicion of Bore Wash again, caused by all the tries to start it, plus the smell of fresh fuel. So I took out the spark plugs on the left bank only (on my car the passenger side) and put a small amount of oil in the bores, reconnected everything and, eventually, I got the engine started….. but all wasn’t good!

It was as though it wasn’t firing on all cylinders, it’s difficult to tell when revving and the throttle response seemed good, but it wasn’t as smooth when revving or on idle as I know my engine to be. There is a ‘light rattle’ noise from the intake manifold at the front near the thermostat tower, and a much louder noise from somewhere else lower down near the A/C Compressor, I assumed the louder noise lower down was because I haven’t recharged/re-gassed the A/C? But the rattle from the intake manifold and the unevenness of running was 'not my engine', so I checked again for DTC’s. This time I got a different CKP error “P0335 – Crankshaft position sensor - A Circuit”. Now, although the engine starts each time I try, starting is difficult and it takes many more cranks to start than ever before. Both CKP Sensor errors seem intermittent at best, but the bad running and difficult starting is every time! Something else strange is that when the engine is running, the exhaust note sounds fine?

I have a few questions if I may?
1) How can I check every cylinder is firing ok, I don’t know how to do this (I used to pull a spark plug lead off to see if it made a difference, but you can’t do that with these engines?)

2) Could the slight rattle noise in the inlet manifold be caused by one of the cylinders, maybe one that isn’t firing?

3) Could the A/C Compressor make a noise if not recharged? Could I drive the car to a garage to get it recharged, or will that damage the Compressor?


4) What is the difference between “P1336 Crankshaft Position Sensor” and “P0335 Crankshaft Position Sensor - A Circuit”?

5) I’ve read on the Forum that CKP Sensor could also mean Camshaft Sensor, do I have those, if so where are they? Maybe I damaged one of those lifting the engine out?

I realise that a new Crankshaft Position Sensor makes sense, and might be a cause for a cylinder misfire, but why the P1336 & P0335 different faults, and in particular, is the reference to "A Circuit" significant?

After my many hundreds of hours work I am left a tad deflated with the present result. Can anyone offer any kind of advice? As always, any advice is appreciated.

Paul

 

Lets take a step back and review the possible causes....

P1336 Jaguar Crankshaft Position Sensor
Possible causes
– Faulty Crankshaft Position Sensor
– Crankshaft Position Sensor harness is open or shorted
– Crankshaft Position Sensor circuit poor electrical connection
– Signal plate may be damage
– Starter motor may be faulty
– Starting system circuit
– Dead or weak battery
Tech description
Sometimes and in some models, low battery voltage or a weak starter can can trigger a Crankshaft Position Sensor code. Before replacing any parts, recharge or replaced battery.
What about the obd code?
– The crankshaft position sensor (POS) signal is not detected by the ECM during the first few seconds of engine cranking
– The proper pulse signal from the crankshaft position sens
Symptoms
– Engine Light ON (or Service Engine Soon Warning Light)
– Lack/Loss of Power
– Engine Stall
– Engine difficult to start
P1336 Jaguar Description
The Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKP) also known as the crank position sensor is an electronic device used in an engine to record the rate at which the crankshaft is spinning. This information is used by the Engine Control Module (ECM) to control ignition and fuel injection. The sensor system consists of a rotating part, typically a disc, as well as a static part, the actual sensor.

When the engine is running, the high and low parts of the teeth cause the gap with the sensor to change. The changing gap causes the magnetic field near the sensor to change. The change in the magnetic field cause the voltage from the sensor to change.

....and...

P0335 JAGUAR - Crankshaft Position Sensor Circuit 'A' Fault
Possible causes
Faulty crankshaft position sensor
Crankshaft position sensor harness is open or shorted
Crankshaft position sensor circuit poor electrical connection
Signal plate may be damage
Starter motor may be faulty
Starting system circuit
Dead or weak battery
What does this mean?
Tech notes
Sometimes and in some models, low battery voltage or a weak starter can trigger a Crankshaft Position Sensor code. Before replacing any parts, recharge or replaced battery.
What does this mean?
When is the code detected?
The crankshaft position sensor (POS) signal is not detected by the Electronic Control Module (ECM) during the first few seconds of engine cranking
Possible symptoms
Engine Light ON (or Service Engine Soon Warning Light)
Possible lack/loss of Power
Engine may stall while driving
P0335 JAGUAR Description
The Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKP) also known as the crank position sensor is an electronic device used in an engine to record the rate at which the crankshaft is spinning. This information is used by the Electronic Control Module(ECM) to control ignition and fuel injection. The sensor system consists of a rotating part, typically a disc, as well as a static part, the actual sensor.
When the engine is running, the high and low parts of the teeth cause the gap with the sensor to change. The changing gap causes the magnetic field near the sensor to change. The change in the magnetic field cause the voltage from the sensor to change.


A weak battery seems the simplest check initially... and as you state, could you have damaged any wiring or a union? Have you checked the cleanliness of your connections at the starter? The most significant is the sensor itself. I myself cannot see any reason not to spend roughly $30 for assurance for a good part. It could be a combination of any, if not all to be taken into consideration.

 

WOW Highhorse, what a fantastic reply, full of information ...many thanks

The battery is less than 6 months old (I think it's a 100 or 120amp?) and was fully charged, so no problem there. With engine out I cleaned all the bay out, and made sure all earths were sound, but I didn't disturb them. I also made sure the connections all the way from the connector position near the brake servo (RHD) to the starter, alternator etc. were good and clean... any connection(s) that would need to be disconnected when removing the engine/gearbox were re-connected clean and tight.

It seems getting a new Crank Sensor is sensible, but looking at the cost you gave I wish I lived in the USA, here's a few prices straight off the net for one supplied in the UK:



The latter being around $123, I haven't seen any after-market sensors that may be cheaper.

The only thought that came to me yesterday was my CKP was close to where I painted the engine/gearbox with VHT paint form an aerosol, maybe some of that could have contaminated the sensor, it ran perfectly well before I removed the engine? Or, just get a new one to be sure?

The test I did was during cranking, and with the engine running. Sometimes the error appeared, then it disappeared following another crank and start, very intermittent.
The engine light went out as soon as the engine started each time, so not sure if that is any indication? The only lights on the dash after the usual System Check, were 'Drivers Door Open' & 'Bonnet Open'?
I have not driven the car since installing engine/gearbox so I don't know if it would stall, or any power loss. I will drive it soon as I get the A/C re gassed.
I'm praying I haven't damaged the Signal Plate, not sure if/how that can be checked, mating the engine and box went without any difficulties?

I also suspect there may be some debris that has got on to the CKP connector behind the A/C Compressor, but this is so difficult to get at. I can only try and remove the current sensor and check condition and connections. At c.£90 I will check mine first!

Thanks so much for the valuable information Highhorse, my only question now, what actually is the "A Circuit"?

Paul

 

Could you order the part from the US or is there an import charge that would negate the savings? I tend to see the price from that part number around $77 or 54 Pounds (sorry, no pound symbol on my keyboard). Of course this is all mute if you find info in the following pdf to fix your issue.
This whole pdf is valuable for review for what your working on... http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Trai...ual-9-5-01.pdf ...but for the CKPS, that's on page 4.5 (chapter 4, page .5) and 4.7. The "A" fault is not a "A Circuit", its the Crank Positioning Sensor Circuit "A" fault, very different. I believe the "A" fault is the "A" bank, I would like someone like motorcarman to clarify this.
As for the battery, it may be fine, but what about your primary leads, is there any corrosion that would prevent voltage from properly being asserted?

 

Highhorse, many thanks again for this useful info, I wish I could afford to bring one of you guys over here and fix this for me!

I do recall the earth lead to the engine/gearbox being a little corroded, but I assumed it OK as it hasn't been changed and worked fine b4? I am at work right at this time so I will look later today, for the low cost involved it must be worth putting on a new one.

I think disconnecting the battery and doing some ohms resistance tests on all the primary leads wouldn't go amiss either. I guess we're looking at all earth terminals, main leads to starter, alternator, etc?

I did manage to get my hand onto the connector for the CKP Sensor while having a quick look around yesterday evening. I believe I can disconnect the sensor with a little fiddling about, as said, I want to get the old one out and check it first, I'm sure it must be some contamination of some sort from the work changing the gearbox.

I will read deeper into the pdf you sent me, it will make this afternoon pass quicker lol. I will post back soon...

 

Finally the car runs great again

I went for a new Crankshaft Position Sensor, but taking on the advice of some others that suggested a Camshaft Position Sensor can throw up same/similar codes, I got one of those too. I had difficulty getting the Camshaft one out, really tight, and caked in carbon deposits, but eventually managed to change it.

All done and time to turn the key. First turn, even before the engine had got one full revolution and it was purring, the smile was enough but some interesting points. The car has never run as smooth and quiet, so I'm wondering if either of the sensors has been going for some time? Secondly, the new gearbox is so much better, and well worth the effort in changing it out. The main thing...no more transmission oil leaks to be seen, so the braided hose MOD worked too.

1 disappointment, the rumble at 50 mph is still there, though different in as such it seems 'less violent' than it was, it happens exactly at 50 and reduces moving towards 60 and onward, although still present it smooths out significantly at 70. The only items from engine to rear wheels that isn't new is the prop-shaft and rear differential, any ideas? I know nilanium has had some experience with similar?

All-in-all a job well worth doing, but once again would not have been possible with my knowledge alone, so thanks to all those who took time to post/comment below. Right ... time to start the bodywork before the summer runs out!