That's right Jim, when I turn on the headlights, only the license plate and side lights come on in the back; not the single filament in the brake bulb. Plus the bulb failure warning light.

 

Well guess what?

I shouldn't be so hasty (and it does suck to work outside in the rain and the dark on this stuff...just inconvenient), 1 totally broken wire and 2 soon-to-be broken wires!

I'll solder them up nice and let you know how it works.

 

So I soldered those three wires together, I got the right running light to work for about 30 seconds, then tried reseating the left harness, and now both are out again. I'm betting a 12 volt potential for the right running light, and I measured again 8.5 volts to the left, and no wires visibly broken.

It seems strange that I'm getting exactly the same voltage reading, 8.5 volts, as last time.

I cleaned out the locking mechanism and noticed that the motor would not open it when it was depressed too much. I could not however, figure out how to split the plastic box with the motor.

 

Did you solder a piece of wire into the loom ? or did you just solder the 2 parts of the broken wire back together ?


If you just soldered the 2 broken ends together, you have just added a rigid part to an already weakened wire.

 

Yes it was a bit of a dumb move... I rearranged the wires further along the trunk. On a visual check and a medium thorough handling check almost all the way from the gas tank to the trunk opening mechanism, wires look good. I'll check more today if it isn't raining, but please chime in if you think there's something worthwhile to check beyond fuses and trunk wires.

 

Really want to check this but it's just pitch black with flooding everywhere where I am in California right now...

Another comment that I will make is that the stereo and driver's side door/window buttons get quite warm after driving for a while. I'll check for a ground there.

 

I would be cleaning/ checking all the grounding points.
It should not take too long and it costs nothing but time. Then you can at least rule them out of the equation if it does not resolve the issue(s).


I would then be checking for continuity in the wires. Again, only cost is time.
I would also invest in a power probe, don't have to be an expensive one, just capable of powering up a component. They also make fuse checking quick and easy.


If the above don't work, then it can get a bit more involved/ expensive...
checking switches, relays, ECU`s etc...
But the above approach has served me well over the years.


Read up on the principles of automotive electrics, once understood things may become a little clearer.

 

OK I just wanted to update because now I'll have time to work on it this week:

I have fixed 3 wires, and without bulbs both running lights show ~~11 volts. Then when I plug the lights in, they don't come on. But the terminal is showing voltage....does that say anything?

 

Not much. Most electrical circuits switched by solid state devices (which these are) will show voltage with no load on the output. Test everything with the load (the bulbs) attached.

 

That's sort of like me: I appear to have a good potential, but in reality...???

 

Have you ever resolved this issue ? I had accidentally cut into the wrong wires in my 2003 super v8 , and they touched while the battery was still connected and it blew a bulb. Now i hate myself for forgetting to disconnect the battery. I replaced the bulb but now I have no running lights . I checked all the fuses and the relays all are good. So my next step is to have my SCLM repaired because I have no idea what else it could be at this point.

 

97xj6lucy ,

Hang on with the SLCM replacement . Note the pics are for the X308 , correct ? Identify which bulbs are out like the running lights or stop lights . Just click 2 times on the pics for expanded view .

Editing

Thanks , Parker

 

It's the running lights , the brake lights work fine .

 

With the running lights it would be the BCM ( Blue wires in my pic ) but there are other things to look at before replacing that like the stalk switch wire breaking at the solder . Pic later from someone else if I ban find it .

 

Thank you for all your assistance, I'll try looking at the wires on the light switch , but to be honest the reason I think that its not something that simple is because this happened when I let to exposed wires touch while the battery was connected , and I also noticed in your diagram that the purple wires run to the sclm , so is it possible that it could be that or the body control module ? Or are you completely ruling out the security module ? The reason I ask is because I already have it removed and prepaid for the repair , they also do a free bench test , so if nothing is wrong I'll get a refund .

 

Regardless as to whether something happened to the SCLM the blue colored running lights will still work independently of the purple wire stop lights . So before swapping the BCM check the ( I think it was the stalk ) and check the specific bulb ground as the bulb ground tie in points in the lamp assembly go bad . Do both left and right sides have the same failure ? The touching wires were after the BCM around the lamp assembly ?

See stalk switch pics with broken wires in this tread page 2 :

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...orking-193530/

 

I will have to check the light switch tomorow because it' dark outside. As far as the wires I let touch , they were a solid yellow wire and a solid blue wire that were twisted as a pair , and they were sliced open in the rear of the cabin under the rear passenger seats . So my guess would be that it is before BPM. And yes all the running lights all the way around have the same failure. None in the rear and none in the front . I had thought that it was only one light . So i replaced the bulb and then as we were testing them the other bulb may have went out. Maybe we wore out the switch testing it , but if that was the case then I still have a problem with my drivers side rear rear running light not working.

 

See the above link in the edited post . Catching the game .

Solid yellow wire and a solid blue wire that were twisted as a pair Ill have to look

Twisted wires under the rear seat are probably a wheel speed sensor .

 

Thank you again for your help !This has to be the greatest community of enthusiasts ever .I don't know where I would be without this site . I'm going over your suggested thread now.

 

I have inspected all the soldering points on the light switch . Everything looks just fine. So at this point have we at least narrowed it down to the BCM or the SCLM ? Or is it possible that when I let the live wires connect that I had damaged the light switch ? Thanks again for all help in advance!