If you put off until tomorrow what you can do today, you could have a visit with Captain Morgan in the meanwhile

What changed your mind about grinding the valve tips?

 

Time for grog, matey.

 

I had to buy shims so I said screw it include 3 valves, what's another $65.00

 

That's just hardship pay for several weeks of water and cranberry.

 

only 1 day, assembly day. luckily friends came over with wine so assembly stopped for refreshments..

 

Looking forward to hearing it's running an happy! Keep us posted.

 

All I have to do is install the induction system and check all the hoses, water & vacuum.
I am going to use diesel oil for the first 500 miles to clean up all the crap in the engine, then fill with good oil and restore treatment.
Biggest surprise so far was that the heads went on very easily and thank god I bagged all the screws.
I did replace some screws with stainless socket head cap screws to clean it up. pictures to follow when I have finished all the assembly.

 

So it SHOULD be a go for tomorrow?

I lost a ton of time today fixing valve clearances and placing 64 keepers on the valves... I shouldn't be too far behind you- maybe Monday, the hard part's over.

 

How much can you grind? I assume they are case hardened so there will be a limit?

 

As far as I am concerned nothing. Roger77 first proposed grinding the shims, then the valve tips, and in the end went for new shims. I guess he had second thoughts.

 

I thought it through and checked the materials, valves are a stainless material which does not take a deep hardening, so $65.00 or risk rebuilding due to a worn valve..

 

Update:
Got everything put together. started to turn it over without fuel pump fuses.
Sounded OK a little rattling from chains as the tensioners pumped up.
Put in fuses and started her up. Lots of white plumes of steam on right exhaust and a little surging.
I shut her off and checked the throttle body, it was open too far so I adjusted the cable (the square locator had turned too far and was holding throttle open)
I pulled the plugs on the passenger side and the rear most plug gap was closed and there is a gouge on the electrode prong. This cylinder looks damp but not wet, coolant level looks like it dropped but that could be from air in the system.
So I think I am going to have to pull the head off and investigate.
Please guys any ideas, I am really getting frustrated

 

Instead of pulling the head, you can first try:

-- compression test
-- leakdown test
-- coolant pressure tester

also turn over engine by hand looking for interference. put a new plug in first so that you can see if you get a new mark on the electrode or the electrode closes again.

What exact sparkplug number are you using?

How did you time the engine?

What was your head bolt torquing sequence and procedure?

Did you measure the head and block deck for straightness and what measurements did you get?

What finish is on the cylinder head and block mating surfaces?

 

When I put mine all back together, it sounded like sh*t for about 10 seconds or so and then smoothed out... Was there any coolant in the cylinders when you put it back together? It might just be burning it off.

Thats really odd... As mentioned above, try putting another plug in.

 

It's entirely possible that coolant spilled into the exhaust while dismantling the engine. This takes a while to burn off.
The spark plug I cannot account for but am hoping that youu just banged it while puttin things together. Nothing you did should have cause anything to be hitting the plug.
A leakdown test and/or a borescope will tell you more.
Fingers are crossed for you.

 

Thanks Ross, everyone is suggesting a bore scope, and as soon as I get back from my trip I will look into it (literally)
I will be pissed if I dropped a valve or find a bolt, screw etc.

 

Update
I ran a compression check ,
Drivers side front to back 105,105,120,105
Pass side front to back 120, 120,130, 0
So off with the head. it only took 4 hours this time.
This is what happened.
The retainers popped off an intake valve, that bent the valve and the retainers stayed in the cup and got crushed, the piston is dented but the cylinder bore looks like there is no damage.
I'm off to the dealer in the morning for a new valve and retainers.
A very close friend said he always hits the valve tip with a soft hammer to make sure the retainers are set in place. (a bit late for that advice)
I'm happy with 120 psi on some cylinders but a bit worried about the 105's on the drivers side.
I need this advice:
Do I use new head gaskets?
Do I need to worry about the dings in the piston?
what might be causing the low compression ?
Interesting that it was pretty even on both sides,
Maybe I did a better job of valve lapping on 1 side (I did the passenger side last)
I'm so tired that photos will follow tomorrow, I'm drinking a glass of wine thinking, I was lucky on my first rebuild, and how did I F*** up on 1 valve when I had already done 31 others.
Oh well if it was easy everyone would be doing it....

 

I wouldn't be particularly worried about the ding in the piston so long as it is still holding.

If it has sharp edges, round off the edges to avoid them being hot spots causing pre-ignition.

A wet compression test might have told you whether it was rings. But, the head is already off.

I would be very tempted to use new head gaskets. It sucks, but so does a blown gasket.

In the V6 section of the engine manual is a very interesting difference in the torquing procedure. It is the same, except that the first torque by force operation is done, then the bolts are backed off 360 degress, then torque by force again, then the two 90 degree operations. I like it. As you know, I like to let things "settle" between each stage. Your engine though.

 

Thanks for the advice plums,
I guessed new head gaskets were needed as they have been "crushed" once.
Good advice on hot spots I would have never thought of that.
What is a wet compression test?

 

Wet- oil in the combustion chamber. Also you are supposed to have the throttle wide open when doing the check. I'll bet you are fine and the cylinders were dry giving you a low reading (especially giving the car sat for a week)