I mentioned the zip tie method for the secondaries as an analog of marking the match points.

My actual claim is that the whole job is possible as long as all the match points are marked or fixed. That was before seeing the pictures and without knowing whether the front cover was coming off. Having seen the pictures, I can say that I would have no hesitation in attempting it that way ... although the tools would be handy

 

Evenly unload the cams, but leave the firewall end cap partially attached. This is because the cam will initially bind on the front cap due to angle and surface tension of the oil. Then, pull up at the nose end gear to release. Then finish removing the last cap. A little 'ting' with your smallest assembly hammer will help break the surface tension.

Because of the cam lobe arrangement, for each cam there is exactly one position where there is no load on any of the lobes. Using this position is very helpful and reduces risk of fracturing the cam.

 

Please answer: Is this position easy to find? Are you able to feel it, as you rotate the cam?

Sorry Roger, I know it's your thread, but I can use all the knowledge I can get on this subject.

 

you're not the only one, I've got a few bottles of scotch if you want to come out and help !

 

You know, that's not out of the question. I lived in Ehrenberg (on the river) for a while (developing a truck stop on AZ side), and I have some friends that are begging me to come over. Problem is, ....my wife is currently in the process of getting her Master's, and she has only Sunday free. Of course I can go without her anywhere, but if she is in the hospital in the morning, in school in the afternoon/evening,....who will feed five horses and five dogs while I am in AZ? I WOULD love to dive into this project with you though!

 

I'll take the scotch- And on a side note, let me know if you want/need to speak by telephone. (PM me your number and I am happy to phone)

Evenly loosen the cam bolts and you will be fine. There are a few tricks to removing the valves which include a magnet and some patience- putting them back in is also a little tricky. (the keepers, mostly) Take the exhaust headers off after removing the heads (If you want to remove them at all) to remove the head- just unbolt the downpipes, and after removing the head bolts (IN THE CORRECT SEQUENCE so as not to warp the head) they come off easily. When you reinstall the heads, you will want an extra set of hands (or- better yet, use lengths of threaded stud that fit the head bolt holes to line it up, as it will slip around otherwise and scratch/damage the gasket. one last bit of advice- make sure SURE you have sprayed compressed air into the head bolt holes in the block because if there is oil or coolant in there it will stop the bolts and they will not torque correctly or worse, you will snap the head off.
Danielsand, you are close enough I would offer to come up and work with you on the project when the time comes, provided my schedule allows.

 

My Cat has almost 84K now on the clock, and it runs perfect. I don't see (I hope) the need to pull the heads off any time soon. But I appreciate your offer, and will hold you to it if/when the time comes. I just want to learn at this point. I LOVE learning.

And I am close. 30 min west of Palm Springs windmills, right where 60 and I-10 split, five miles north on the mountain.

 

Nice! 1.5 hours by my recollection. I'll look forward to it.

Back to Roger- how far have you gotten?

 

Just an aside, while looking for a new XJ for my daughter, I ran across (on Crqaigslist)the very XJ8 that I r&r'd the head on (after bending a few valves by not replacing both tensioners) and it looks like it is still ticking on happily with an extra 27K miles on the clock.

The seller will also make a tidy profit if he gets what he is asking....

 

OK, I'm back to which Pr*ck decided to put 3/4" longer than needed bolts in the hood attachment, and on the drivers side put a cheap plastic hose in the way of the bolts !!
So with a lock nut on 4 bolts, and the longer than needed bolts it took over 1hr to get the hood unscrewed. When it goes back on I'm using Socket head cap screws, the wrench will clear the hose and the bolts will be the "right" length.
My buddy is on his way over to help me lift the hood off so I can get to the timing chain
cover. So in the down time I am using my parts washer to clean a bunch of parts, and make a list of upgraded bolts.
Also another Jaguar engineer decided to use torx screws on some bolts(cheap I might add) and so they will be replaced with SHCS (socket head cap screws)

 

Send the link pls!

 

Isn't that funny? Many a time I took the stuff apart (Porsche, MBZ, Jag) and thought to myself,....."what sick MFIC came up with that!!?" Just like they all sat down and had a meeting with only one subject on the agenda,....."How do we discourage and frustrate ANY DIY on our product?"
It must be,...otherwise I would think that most engineers in these factories are total hacks, and never had to do anything by themselves. And they are NOT the only ones! You should see the aircraft engines!! These people should flip burgers for living, not "engineer" the machinery.

 

Hi all,
I got the hood off and all the pullies on the front except the crank.
First off when the camshaft line up on the left bank the right bank is off a little, and vis-versa, can I assume that when they were done they were not done correctly?
Should both banks line up flat on the flats, (1 bank is off or maybe both are off, when the flats are aligned which cylinder is at TDC?

 

1. Here is the link to the Xj8 I owned- 2000 Jaguar XJ8L $4000 - $4000 (Orange County)

2. Both sides should be FLAT on the cams when the flex plate is in the correct position.

They can be off and the car will run- possible your chain is stretched, or lower tensionor is bad?

 

..and I don't think any cylinder is at TDC, Its like 40 degrees off or something.. the arrow on the flex plate is THE way to make sure the engine is in the correct position to have the cam flats lined up.

 

Thanks Dave, your a gem. can you give me info on the flex plate location arrow

 

no the timing was done incorrectly. the sprockets are not splined and if you put the slack on the wrong side of the tensioner, when you start the engine the slack goes to the correct side. And then will be off a couple degrees. This is the real issue with timing correctly. I always release the tensioner, "BEFORE" I tighten the sprocket bolts on the exhuast cams

 

Yes Brutal is right. I did the timing belt job on my daughter's Acura and it was hell. I tried and tried to get the timing right, but I finally gave up and had it towed to an indy shop. I
changed my secondary tensioners on the Jag with the zip-tie method and had no problem
since I never loosened the sprocket on the cam. I guess it was the slack side that I could
not get right. I guess I'll never be a Honda/Acura mechanic. Oh well.

 

Just spent 2hrs downloading and installing JTIS manuals, what a great resource.
Thanks Jim Lombardi and Plums.
I now feel a lot better about this trip into the unknown.
I've always just paid someone to wrench on my cat but now in AZ and with a real garage and tools and extra cars I really want to learn how to really do my own work.
My friend took one look and said I have huge b**ls to even try this, he showed up in his 1948 Dodge he just finished rebuilding, and I thought he was brave to rebuild an entire car.

 

Yes, if you know it exists. I just bump with the starter to get there .. cover off of course.

The lobes will be at 9,12,3 o'clock while 6 o'clock has nothing.

BTW, look for the Jaguar engine repair course manual which has been posted here multiple times. It is *far* more detailed than JTIS.