So let me see if I have this straight. On the AJ V8 Jaguar uses a system of numbering that was at one point A bank and B bank. "A" bank being on the right from the drivers seat.

Coils are labeled A thru H from where I'm not sure. I assumed right front and in sync with the cylinders. F would be B3?

Up to 2002.5 They also show a numbering system that refers to Bank 1 and Bank 2 with cylinders numbered 1-4 on each side.

In 2002.5 They changed the system to number the cylinders 1 thru 8 with 1-3-5-7 on bank 1 and 2-4-6-8 on bank 2.

My XKR is a 2000. So when the code reader gives me a PO306 which says "#6 Misfire" and a PO356 which says "Coil F Pri/Sec Circ" are we talking about location B3, Bank 2 Position 3 or just plain #6 cylinder and where is Coil F then?

 

Looking at a chart provided by Sparkenzap I now see his chart shows PO306 as a failure at "B2 (6)" (not sure what the 6 means) and PO356 is Coil at B2 That appatrently means Cylinder #4. I'll swap out the coil on #4 or B2 and see if problem changes location. I need another Guinness!

 

Excalibur:
You are being cursed by the ghosts of Coventry! I suggest you cease immediately writing disparaging words about the marque!

Cylinder numbering is confusing, with the major confusion being an effort to adapt to some CE standard, as I understand it. And, yes, I confused you with my post with the picture. The P306 code refers to B2 which is the second cylinder from the front on the left hand side. Sorry about the confusion.

 

You are so right! Anyone know of an Anglican Priest I can get absolution from?

Having now identified the cylinder as B2, I swapped the coil pack for B1. Fault returned showing code PO355 vs PO356, but no misfire code. Me thinks I had a bad coil at B2.

Al

 

Yes, Ford did some good things for jaguar. You can also buy Lincoln MKZ parts that are 100% identical to Jag parts at a fraction of the cost.

One bad thing was the plastic thermostat housing, the most idiotic thing next to the plastic timing chain gear which I think may have been before Ford.

 

Have found Gus and Sparkenzap to be particularly helpful here. One thing that has become obvious is that we need an accurate reference for Cylinder/ Coil location and an accurate OBD Fault chart for the specific vehicle. I'll reference JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource in the future.

Of course, now I have to replace a coil pack and hope it is indeed the problem.

 

Thank you so much for that description. It was hard to see but I found the two wires and they were very gunked up. are the wires completely smooth or is there something in the middle of the wire. It looks like there is a bit of rise in the center of each and I went through a lot of the can getting it clean. If it is just a wire then I have more work to do. Thanks for your help on this.

2002 Jaguar super 8 103k

 

had the same problem a few times. somehow the car was getting an overheat signal and cut back.felt all the hoses. warm but not hot. temp gauge was pegged. started back up and everything was fine. go figure

 

Seems this thread is old and out of mainstream...but I've been getting the codes again, same as posted by folks above.
I've found two things that seem to cause the faults to show up less often- not counting cleaning the MAS.
First off, I drive almost exclusively in town (ouch on the gas mileage- 16mpg)...but: I made an interesting discovery, kind of by accident. On the switch for E/S for the transmission shift patterns, I had Sport selected. As I found I liked that driving mode better, I thought 'try it out'....my mileage INCREASED to 18mpg. Go figure. Then I discovered that the time between Restricted Performance notice would come on increased by hundreds of miles....as in upwards of 600 miles, whereas before it would come back on within 150 miles.
Also, changing from gas mixed with ethanol to Pure gas has brought the car to where I do not see the RP notice come on, nor any Check Engine.
OK, you say... so I changed back each of these separately from each other...and then combined. Right back to the old Restricted Performance within 100 miles.
So, I drive in Sport, burning Pure gas (as long as I can afford to), and enjoy the ride.

 

Brought ethanol and octane up a few posts ago and was pretty much told neither will cause a RP situation. There are a many stations in Wisconsin that don't have ethanol in upper grades so I look for that. It's just bad for so many other reasons.

Just changed a B2 coil pack two days ago and while driving tonight got a RP light. When I got home, ran codes and all it had was a P1000 which is nothing more trhan "Erased Codes". No RP light on restart.

 

I wanted to thank you for your help with this. I have cleaned those hidden wires with MAF cleaner and now the car is a beast again. The gas mileage is up and I have full acceleration again at all stages.
Next up I am going to see if I can get the ASC/Trac back working.
Thanks for all of your help!





2002 Super 8 102k

 

That did the trick! Thanks I have a fast car again!!! It was just the gunked up wires in the MAF.



2002 Super 8 102k.

 

Based on the posts cleaned mine this morning the forgot I left my cell on the car and went for a test drive. Found phone later but someone had run over it (which explains why it stopped ringing after a few tries) Total cost to clean the sensor about $200, but should save that with the increase in mileage right? If you ever get that feeling "I shouldn't set this here" take note and don't.

 

when i changed my air intake, my mpg went significantly higher

 

What did you change on it?

 

Trying your experiment on my car now for the mpg. No RP but I'm curious.

 

I have been getting the Restricted Performance message lately -- here's my story....

First time I got the RP message was after driving 22 miles to work and parallel parking my car in front of the office. The drive is about 1/2 freeway and the rest city driving. While the car was still in reverse, I noticed the RP message come on. I would guess it happened while backing into the spot. Later that day I drove home and never got the RP message.

The second time was just like the first time, one day later. Same thing later that day, too.

The third time it came on was while driving to work on a city street, I was going about 35 mph at the time. No change in performance was noticed. Drove the rest of the way to work, about 10 miles with the message displayed.

The next time was the same day as the 3rd time - the RP message came on while driving about 30 mph on a city street, while slowly accelerating. I drove the car with the RP message displayed about 8 miles at freeway speed without any noticeable performance issues. I parked the car, ran into the building to conduct about 15 minutes worth of business and came out to check the codes with my Actron code reader -- P1111 only -- and no RP message.

The final time about 5 minutes later, still had the code reader attached, and I was again driving about 30-35 mph on a city street and accelerating slowly. I also just happened to hit the 'auto' button on the AC - I had turned off the AC in the parking lot when I 1st connected the code reader. I pulled off the road into a parking lot, turned the car off as well as the AC and started it up again -- no RP message. Drove 8 miles, no RP message, stopped at an ATM, turned car off, got back in about 2 minutes later, started it up, no RP message. Drove 1 mile, turned on AC, no RP message.

I checked my Actron code reader several times and the only code was P1111, and yes, I re-scanned each time.

Long post, I know, but I have to mention two more things -- 1st, I had a gas filling problem the other day when the pump handle didn't click off when full, so I had gas spill all over the car! I washed the car and hosed out the gas intake area with water. Stupid? Maybe.

2nd, I have no idea how to read my Actron code reader beyong getting the "codes." After it displays the codes it has a bunch of other info that I don't know how to interpret. If anyone is interested, I could tell you what it says and maybe you can tell me what my problem is!

Ok, I lied, I have one other thing -- in April, a mechanic took off the manifold cover and the injectors, to replace my thermostat and tower -- he said I needed seals but I argued with him until he reused the old ones. He did show me that I had a leak and the engine (according to his code reader) was running lean and misfiring, etc. I have put nearly 7k miles on the car since then and, in my opinion, it has not been running as smoothly as it did before he did that work. Just wanted to mention this!

 

Mike it could be one of lots of things, your reader won't pull trans faults for example - you've more chance of capturing the code if the reader is plugged in while driving and if it occurs check it without turning the engine off, if indeed it's engine related.

btw your engine guy was right, new seals are a way of ensuring everything is airtight.

 

I did read the codes without turning off the engine, still P1111.

I'll stop by my mechanics garage tomorrow and see what his reader tells us.

 

OldMike,

The P1000/P1111 codes are two of the most misunderstood - they are status or indicator codes, not trouble or fault codes.

No one has explained this more clearly than Steve Petry, in the thread entitled Fault Code P1000 1997 XK8 on the JCNA Forums.

Brian