I tried advanced search function of the forum, but did not find the answer.

Two days ago I tried to start the engine, and I got very loud ticking noise so I stopped it immediately. (One day before I used the car, and there was not any problem.) I thought it is related to the tensioners so I tryed starting again with removed fule inj. fuse, waiting for the oil pressure will moves the blocked tensioner. ( I had metal ones, so did not thougt those could broken). But it did not help.

Yesterday a changed the right bank's secondary chain tensioner, as the secondary chain was loose, but it did not skipped. The tensioner's spring was working freely, but I could too easily push out the oil from the tensioner vs. the other used one.

OK. The engine started perfectly, and running smooth. But after it gets warm, the idle has to begin rough. Today I even got the MIL lamp, and a lot of fault codes. P0133, P0153, P0302, P0303, P0304, P0306, P0307, P0308, P0316.

My first thought was, that engine oil gets the spark plugs bores, but those are dry. The car's has the power (!!!), when I keep for example 800 rpm by the acc pedal it is smooth, but when it's on idle it is running rough (periodically), and keeps very low rpmd. Now I will try compression test, but not seems logical step, what could happened. Is it possible, that without skipping a teeth, the valve's touches the pistons?
Do you have any experience, idea about it?

 

Well, you're misfiring on pretty much all cylinders - hence both O2 sensors complaining.
Can you read the fuel trims ?

 

Do you mean fuel pressure?

 

No, the short term and long term fuel trims to see if you've got an air leak.
It looks as if you're getting the problem when the fuel monitoring goes 'closed loop'.

 

Another thought . . .

Could you have the longer plastic tensioner bolts? They bottom out before completely sealing the tensioner to the head. At idle you have much lower oil pressure compared to higher rpms.

 

Ok, I understand. I don't have such a Jag IDS. Our Mazda IDS does not handle Jaguar since Ford out of Mazda, and my other OBD II reader can't get so deeply.

Do you think that maybe starting the engine without the fuel pump (fuse) caused the problem? I only took off the valve covers and the related parts such as coils, so I wonder. But now I know don't seek logic when you talk about our lovely Jags.

 

If you've got an android phone then get a Bluetooth adapter of EBay (about €12) and use an app called 'Torque' on the phone.
If you haven't disturbed the air intake then that shouldn't be causing problems though.
Cranking with the fuel pump disconnected won't have caused damage.
I'd think if it was timing damage you'd get problems as soon as you start but you say it is fine until it warms up.
Also the misfires are on both banks and you only changed one tensioner.

 

Good idea, but is it possible that I used the car with the not perfectly sealed tensioner for long time? Now I use the tensioner from my "spare" car, until the ordered new one arrive. There were silver colored screws in the other car, and black in this car, but all of the tensioners are metal ones.

 

Yes, it is fine until warms up, just rarely some slight vibration when absolutely cold, but it's just like before the problem.

I only took off the intake pipe from its place no other works, but now I will try to clean the MAF. Yesterday after I reassembled the engine I was trying the car (no problem until idle) , but only today reaches the misfire rating the emission level that causes MIL. ???

 

In this moment I've got P1642 (can bus fault), the rpm counter goes zero with working engine, restricted performance message....no idea. How these are related to each others.

 

You may want to check the grounding strap for the engine (best seen from below) to be sure you aren't getting odd electrical errors due to bad ground.

 

The starter revved the engine quickly, but I cleaned the connections of that cable under the car, and erased all of the codes, except the known P1000.

I started the engine, but nothing changed, shaking when it gets a little warm. I went for about a 15 miles test run by the car, even with 120 mph speed. It runs well, and when I arrived back to home, i leaved it on idle and there was not any problem for about 5 minutes, then started to shake, and lastly I have got the MIL lamp. Codes are P0300, p0305, p0307, p0308 (now only bank2).

The charging voltage at idle is 13,7 V. It is much lower than my other (off) car, but it don't seems too low.

I would be grateful for any new idea!

 

All codes on only one bank is sorta scary and by process of elimination may come down to cam timing!

 

The metal tensioner has shorter bolts than the plastic tensioner. If the longer bolts are used the tensioner cannot maintain oil pressure at idle due to the tensioner not being sealed against the head. If someone did not use the right bolts during a replacement, you will have this problem.

 

I took off the tensioner problemed RH bank's cover again. I checked the tensioner's screws, and these are the shorter ones, so this "question" is fixed. I cleared all of the codes, and took a test run.
Now I got P0171, and P0174. Lean mixture on each banks. Now I will check every intake (vacuum) pipe that were relocated with the cam covers. I'm hoping that will find a little vacuum leak anywhere.

Maybe every other fault codes are generated by the too low idle by the vacuum leak. Time will tell.

 

No leaks detected, the engine is still shaking at idle (~600 rpm)

 

Have a look for leak detection on this Forum - two methods propane/carb cleaner and smoke.
The Torque app will really help you nail this.

 

Thanks. I tried brake cleaner. As you advised earlier I was trying to look after fuel trims. My OBDII scanner shows four datas such as LT TRMS %.... Does it help if I give you these datas at idle, and at little higher rpms?

 

It can't do any harm !

 

At 641 rpm shaking idle: ST FTRM1 (%) 24,9, LT FTRM1 (%) 19,5
ST FTRM2 (%) 24,9, LT FTRM (%) 19,5

at 1250 rpm ST's are (%) 0, LT1-2 (%)12,4