Well I completed another of secondary tensioners for a guy out by the oil fields, making number 4 for me, tht got my number from a guy in the fields. he had heard through the grapevine about the tensioners failing causing engine failure but was detered to do it cus of lack of knowledge an mechanical skill, and the cost for jag to do it is quite high. I told him Id order them through my company and have them there on fri with the new bolts. He met me yesterday after I got off wk and we went to his garage and i think I scared him how fast I got this done. Well one Ive done it 4 times, for me its quite easy, I use the zip tie method very easy and safe, and to me these engines are cake want hard try the fuel filter on an RX7 lol. Anyway start to finish no power tools, only my bag of hand tools tht goes with me everywhere, 1 hr 45 mins. Started it up and purred like a kitten should. He asked me how much i said just enjoy the car and how bout some dinner. I think i made the guys day esecially after I showed him how BAD his tensioners were. Probably the worst I have seen one was starting to crumble and the other cracked all the way down....... the mileage on the car 27k. So dont be slacking just get it done not worth an engine if your in the neighborhood of good ole Utah bring it by ill do it for free you just get the parts.

 

Wow, you really are a good guy...

Actions speak louder than words

 

Wow, that's awesome. That guy will probably tell the story of the 'lightning-fast Jaguar mechanic who works for food' for a long, long time!

 

Have you priced food as of late lol no just would hate to see someone lose their Jag just cus of a simple tensioner change over tht takes less time than you can grill me up a nice med rare ribeye for lol. Ive done 3 now for nothing but a handshake and happy trails i just enjoy working on cars so whats not to like bout good food, good convo, nice cars, and getting our hands dirty not to mention I get to help people work on their own cars we all come out winners.

 

Feel like hanging outside of Boise, ID for a bit? Very cool.

I've been putting this off because my car starts w/o any tick, click or knock, but I know it needs to be done. I'm half tempted to have a local, independent Jag shop quote me as parts supply only to get an estimate for parts locally.

 

Boise is plenty close if you want to help me out with the gas id be more than willing to get you the parts at my wholesale cost here and put them in for you. By the way med rare ribeye is the magic word LMAO. I wouldnt ask for anything at all but thts bout 4 hours away as mapquest so for me and jagquest bout 3 LOL but im game

 

Sounds like a good deal. 1-1/2" thick NY Sirloins and Ribeyes are in the freezer. I'm going to buy the uppers, lowers, guards and chains and seals/gaskets to get the whole job done in one shot instead of going in twice. It will definitely be a project. I have to gather or make all of the correct tools first.

 

Doing the lowers and chains is not quite the same thing as just replacing the secondaries. XJR might not have meant he would spend the week up there. ;^) I did the zip tie change on my VDP and it was a pretty smooth job. I haven't done the primaries, but there are not many stories of primaries causing engines to fail.

 

yeah the whole thing takes alot more time Id be willing to help out thts not horrible but would take a few days. The uppers are easy and the ones Id be worried about i have heard very little bout the primaries failing. Im sure you would be just fine doing the uppers then no special tools needed and its quick and alot less expensive. But the ribeyes sound great to me

 

Boy we sure do have some good rib eye steaks out here in California...

Yes sir, some post sous vide Rib Eye steaks 1 1/2" thick...

Would be happy to pay for your gas to and from + expenses while here

See photos of my discovery today after removing the valve covers.

Only a small crack, plenty of time left, but that clock is ticking...

 

course I would boss not a prob i can go to disneyland too while there yeah for me LOL

 

XJR....do you set the engine up on TDC before changing the secondaries?
What do you use to lock the engine?
At least you don't have the VVT's to worry about.

 

Not too bad really...what distance has the engine covered?
Using good quality oil and rugular 5,000 mile changes goes a long way to saving these tensioners.

 

Hi again xjay8

"What do you use to lock the engine?"
if you do only the secondary tensioners, the easy way (lifting exhaust camshaft and not touching the sprocket center bolt), no need to lock the engine.

"do you set the engine up on TDC before changing the secondaries?"
not absolute necessity but may help. If you make 2 aligned white marks on the exhaust camshaft sprocket and secondary chain before lifting the exhaust camshaft and removing the tensioner, it is enough you realign the 2 marks afterward. If you are in doubt: with the engine in TDC, put a staight ruler on top of the 2 flats visible at the front end of the 2 camshafts, they should be aligned (if you are wrong it will be very visible because you will be off at least one tooth on the sprocket).

Did it a month ago, it is quite easy. Left and right tensioners are different! One is pushing up and the other down so the "slack" on the chain is not on the same side for the left and the right tensioner. Do not let anything fall into the primiary chain tensioners area. Bolts are shorter for the updated metal tensioners, you need new ones. Once bolted in place, do not forget to remove the locking pins out of the new tensioners. Exhaust camshaft bolts have quite small torque specification but they were very hard to unscrew probably due to locking compound put at factory (each bolt was making 2 loud "click" before giving up, hopefully without damaging the threads in the aluminum heads. Better to do 2 full engine revolutions by hand (using a braker bar on the cranckshaft pulley) before restarting the engine, to make sure there is no mechanical interference in the distribution. You'll ear clicks from the distribution for a few seconds when restarting the engine for the first time, time for the oil pressure to build up in the new tensioners. Foresee at least camcover seals replacement. Do not overtight camcover bolts, I had cracks in the camcover plastic around a couple of bolt holes -> small oil leaks. There are 2 small (1 inch long) locations where you need to put sealant on the camcover seal (you'll notice the seal is larger at that location, this is where the primary chain cover joins the engine heads). Some camecover bolts are threaded on both side for attaching wires and cables around, remember where they go before changing the seal (bolts may fall of the camcover with the seal removed). Last thing, there is a quick connect on a small breather pipe on the left camcover, you need to push on the tab to release it and not pull (or vice versa I do not remember). As you know, no VVT on the supercharged so can't help on that, might add a little complication and one more seal to replace?

 

Hello again Juan...thanks for all the enlightening information ;o))
I have been 'vetting' your info and in essence...you're da man!
You see i had my entire timing system replaced six years ago along with a new water pump, thermo and serpentine belt when i bought my car.
But may i say thank you for such detailed info, this has been stored for later use ;o)
It's the little details that count my friend.
This is an extremely sophisticated design that was released 15 years ago and once you understand the phylosophy behind the design and the various engineering systems used, you get a better understanding of how to maintain thses beuties....just like a thoroughbred race horse ;o))

 

Only 53K babied miles. Previous owner drove the car like a little ol lady.

I'm using mobile 1 synthetic, always kept clean.

 

I am planing to change mine. but I found there are 3 tensioners (left and right, and lower)

which one that people usually replace for the metal type here?

please help,urgent.

my engine is shaking

 

If your engine is shaking - STOP! - if you start it again, it could skip another tooth and then it is ALL over. Not something to mess around with.

People generally change only the top two.

Has anyone changed the bottom one?

 

it that the cause why my engine shaking(so hard) with the tensioner issue?please advise me

 

If it is you may be one start-up away from completely destroying your engine. It is usually on start up that the weakened tension allows for the chain to skip one tooth, could be the cause of your car running so bad. If it skips another tooth, again, usually on start up, you can kiss your engine goodbye.

Why would you risk this?

I advise you to NOT start this car again until you have taken off the valve cover and had a look at the tensioners. If you need to bring it to a mechanic, either tow it or have it transported on a flatbed.

Seriously, you may be only one start up away from loosing your engine.