I am contemplating doing a oil flush of the zf 5hp24 transmission in my 1999 x308 4.0, BUT I want to do a complete flush .


I am informed that only by expelling the oil from the oil cooler pipes near the radiator and dropping the pan (changing filter too) will my conscious be satisfied .( I asked my myself and that's the answer!)
I believe the oil level maybe a bit low in the tranny so I have to get in there anyway.


This is not an official jaguar manual based approach, so WHO has done it, and is there a write up somewhere.?


Peter

 

You don't mention the 4 quarts that will remain in the torque converter.

Bottom line is that there is no way to drain 100% of the ATF. About 65% is the best mathematically for each drain. A number of board members have drained and refilled 2 or more times with some driving between to approach a full replacement.

It is very common in the US to use the coolant pipes to power flush all the ATF in most car but there is little mention of that associated with the ZF transmissions I assume because of connector compatibility. There is a post somewhere about that flush procedure being used in Europe.

 

I've done the "DIY Flush" on various cars but I'm not familiar with any X308 particulars that might be important, so consider this to be generic advice.

(For example, I thought that these were the transmissions without dipsticks that required refilling at a certain transmission temperature....or something like that)

In essence.....

1) Disconnect the cooler pipe at the radiator

2) Affix a long hose to the pipe

3) Put the other end of the hose in a 5 gallon pail

4) Have a help start the engine, then turn it off after 5 seconds or so

5) Approximate how much ATF was pumped out and add that much fresh ATF back in.

6) Repeat, repeat, repeat


The ATF pumps out very quickly. Be careful. Obviously you don't want to let the system run dangerously low. The 5 second running time is a rough guess on my part to pump out a quart or so.

Step number 2 can be difficult depending on location and type of fitting

Cheers
DD

 

At our visit to mackies yesterday, John Mackie the MD discussed this issue / procedure at some length.
I can't remember all of it unfortunately as there were a milion other things going on, but they have a special machine ( I believe he said it was the only one in the country iirc ? )......you can see it hooked up in the pic.






I believe John said something along the lines of What Doug has quoted, mentioned around 10 seconds iirc, clearly 5 secs is erring on the side of caution and no bad thing.

You should've came for the tour, you would have found it interesting

 

well I don't have a machine so I have to do this the old way.
Seems people shy away from transmission related issues, but it must all be done eventually.
I don't want to damage anything that's for sure, may have to do a drop the pan approach 3 times.


Will using different ATF oils and there mixing be an issue? I don't plan on using the OEM stuff, better some Castrol Z max quality ATF I have been advised.

Doing an oil change every few years should be a good thing.
peter

 

Anyone has any advice on the best approach when just dropping the pan 2 or 3 times?


It would be best to leave the OLD filter in there initially , so a straight unplug drain and refill, run car for maybe an hour or so to mix everything up, use the different gears, then drop the pan and change the oil filter rebutton up and refill with new oil.


how many liters come out when the pan is dropped....6.5L?. total capacity is 10 liters I understand?(6.5? or is that 65% a the figure when going through the cooler pipes?)
Peter

 

When I change the filter it takes about 4.5- 5 qts. , so less than 5L.

 

see here.....

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/u...e7/#post944071

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/u...e7/#post944102

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/u...e7/#post944105

 

I did mine on the XJR using a fluid exchange machine via cooler lines.

 

motorcarsrandy
Is that a homebuilt fluid exchange machine?! how much $$
whats the process

 

No, that was at my shop with a machine from BG produdcts. You should expect to pay approx 200-250US using synthetic trans fluid.

 

I want to do a DIY approach.... cant trust mechanics anyway!


Im surprised that people havnt used the cooler pipe method for changing the trannny oil. I was hoping for a write up really. Seems simple enough but I don't to bring up an error message on the dash or blow the transmission altogether.
Peter

 

How do you plan on feeding the new oil into the transmission? Thru the return line or the fill orifice on the side of the transmission?

 

If you are going to change the filter, you might want to replace the pressure regulator valve. It takes about one hour.

http://jagrepair.com/images/AutoRepa...%20ZF5HP24.pdf

 

Did you get your transmission fluid changed? If so what brand/type of Trans Fluid did you use?

 

caxtrol transmax z.......exceeds all specifications of the original.
you really notice the difference in the car, its so much "lighter".
Peter

 

But you are happy to accept free advice from one.
My suggestion is to do several conventional changes which will eventually dilute the oil to nearly all fresh.
No way to get it ALL without dismantling or using LOTS of very expensive oil.

 

I did mine a few years ago by first dropping the pan, changing the filter, then refilling the pan (about 6 qts). Then disconnected the return line from the radiator. Stuck a tube on it and ran it into a 5 gal bucket. Started the engine for a few minutes (until about 1 gal of old fluid was collected), shut it down, then filled a gallon or so of new fluid thru the fill hole. Did this until the color changed on the fluid coming out of the tube. Probably used about 13-14 qts of Mobil 1 ATF for the process and it's been doing fine ever since. The fill process is easier if you get a 5 gal bucket of new fluid and use a pump. The fill level should be checked with the transmission warm, so I just left the plug out and ran it until it got warm and the fluid quit running out.

 

mgladlger
I wish I ran into your post a while ago. I searched everywhere for someone who had done it that way but didn't want to be the first fella to try it.
You should write a pdf of this procedure pertaining to the x308 in particular.
I have done the exact same procedure on my xj6, but didn't want to risk it on my x308.
Congratulations on your success of the procedure.
Peter

 

Ross
"But you are happy to accept free advice from one"

I'll accept advice from anyone and consider it. This is different to trusting a mechanic who is interested in "processing" customers for $$, as opposed to doing the right work.
Maybe you live in a more noble area, but here in Australia I will inform you that its NOT unheard of to find a mechanic has placed 1.6 liters of gear oil in the DIFF as opposed to the 1.9 iliters there should be. Over 10 customers that's a saving of $100 to a mechanic. But it dosnt help your diff.
Its not unheard of to have a mechanic use a rattle gun to tighten the crankshaft bolt on your x308, overtighten it and have it snap INSIDE the crank when your taking it out, which forces you to spend 2 months drilling it out with hand made gizmos. Why use he rattle gun because it FAST as opposed to tightening to the right TORQUE.

SO, with out being smart or offensive to you in anyway, I will never trust mechanics.
Even if you pay them what they ask at $90 per hour, you still get a second rate job.
The only reason to go to a mechanic imo is if there is some equipment that is required to do a job that doesn't pay for itself. Example, recently require a wheel alignment... you need the proper equipment so I went to a wheel alignment place.
For an air con regas, again certain equipment required.

After that all, its still advisable to check their work... leaving out a nuts and bolts here and there is part of their game.
.

Peter