..had a look around and found that p1230 jaguar dtc states fuel pump relay malfunction, so it too probably got flagged while you removed relay for testing

So you've got the spark and fuel and we can assume no errors, so maybe as Highhorse suggests put it back together and try start, maybe even give it a hard reset and stick positive with negative cable !while battery unplugged!, and let's hope for the best..
..but if no luck than i would check if injectors are firing with the probe or perhaps multimeter, you may apply 12v to each injector terminal and listen to click and check their resistance, you may also pull them and inspect the o-rings for damage, leaking o-rings would flood your engine
does it smell unburnt petrol while cranking?
Finally, i had serious starting problems on dirty injectors (but i was able to start the engine flooring it) which is gone after i have them professionally cleaned

 

Xjack & Highorse
1. I rechecked the codes and all was clear in stored and pending
so everything back together including the MAF
and WOT tried starting 3 times did sound promising
but no start.
2. checked the stored codes 1 Fault P1 722/$11 Gear 2 Incorrect
(pending codes) No pending codes are stored in the module
Cleared codes again Then I tried disconnecting the MAF
tried starting no Throttle only cranking
tried no MAF WOT same as before promising
now there is no fault code showing for the P1 722/$11 Gear 2 Incorrect
That's Good also

How about swapping the air conditioner relay as it works for the injector relay?
No MAF Codes Clear Video
https://drive.google.com/file/d/17SY...ew?usp=sharing
MAF Connected Codes clear Video
https://drive.google.com/file/d/14Pe...ew?usp=sharing

I did notice the instrument panel said Restricted Performance
so that good means it reconises Limp Mode.

 

anyone
any idea what the resistance should be on the injectors

I think to wait for the liquid filled pressure gauge to arrive as I have the screw on fitting complete with hose waiting.
but while waiting I will start checking injectors

I agree with Xjack the crank sensor should be ok

I'm not over the moon about the quality of spark looks yellow to me.

 

1 code 2 gear ratio has not returned

 

 

 

Injectors should be somewhere around 18ohm +/- few

 

Thanks, Xjack
will do the relay swap in the morning then recheck codes
I'm going away for Easter holidays here so back next Monday will start on injectors
might even remove them and get them checked
thanks again Dutchy

 

How is your battery Dutchy? I reviewed the spark video again and it seemed a bit weak. Also, did I miss something or was that 1st plug not firing?

Also, the amount of fuel on the plugs at the beginning is still a concern (but the new tester should help with that)...along with the residue on them. Plugs should be dry and clean. What did the well of the plugs (the recess around the insulator) look like?

Let's make sure we have the basics covered and verify spark plug gap.

 

The injector resistance is 14.5 Ohm, as measured using a Fluke multimeter. This reading can fluctuate a bit depending on the quality of the multimeter used and how clean the injector pins and the multimeter probes are. Many other High Impedance injectors also have 14.5 Ohm.

With regard to the crank position sensor, I wouldn't rule it out. Even though you have sparks, the CPS signal could be erratic causing sparking to miss here and there and maybe occur at the wrong time. The signal from the CPS could be intermittent due to partial failure of its very fine windings or its air gap could have opened to near the limit due to shrinkage or deformation of its plastic body. I recently experienced erratic start of my Ferrari 348 - it has two CPSs, one for each bank (similar to the Jag's CPS); the engine would start but only on one bank and the other bank would catch-up 3-5 seconds later. I found out that the air gap of the CPS for the offending bank has "grown" too large. Replacing it immediately solved the problem. The Jag's V8 has one CPS for both banks so, if it its signal is not healthy, no start.

 

Let's switch to starting fluid (maybe hard to find in late Summer, down there) and see if that get it to start: if it does, and the engine then quits you have a fuel pump problem. Recheck everything you did in the swap of the fuel pump. Something that was critical is now not connected correctly. I keep going back to your proud video of shade tree mechanics . . . as pointed out before, some of those emission recycle and purge circuits are vital.

And, check the fuel filter installation is correct, if it is backwards . . . you get a short firing on the little pressure in the rail, then dies for lack of continuation. (Once upon a time . . . buddy and I tuned an old 59 BelAir Flame Six (US Chev): I did the ignition, he did the fuel filter and carb overhaul; half way up Loveland Pass in Colorado, we die -- arrow pointing towards the tank and not the Rochester . . . )

 

Reply Highorse
I did check the gap b4 I put the plugs in was 1mm
I too had to watch for spark on the first plug drivers side test
it appeared not to be regular like the others but did spark

I am not happy about the yellow spark should it not be blue/white?

lots of oil around the bottom of the rubber coming from the coil when I removed the plugs I saw a lot and soaked it up with screwdriver and rag on it
all around where the thread starts for the plug figure that's the seals but should not make for bad spark unless maybe oil up inside the rubber and therefore bypassing the plug
didn't look down the rubber part of coils
still fuel on plugs (not dry)
batter 13.2v and when cranking connected to the work truck jumper leads and running its engine

 

To M.S
really don't want to try and get to that bloody thing but as you say still can't rule it out especially as Highorse pointed out about that #1 spark plug
is there a spec on the gap? do you or can it be checked?
I am also thinking after I do my best to chect/change /test injectors/seals maybe I will just take them to a tech and get em overhalled
Thank Regards Dutchy

 

Thank for the compliment on my cowboy mechanics video
don't worry Jim it will be original one day LOL

Starting Fluid?
I did by a can of what we call aerostart where you spray it down the carby and away it fires good for hard starts
but as this is injection I wasent sure what would happen turns out Nothing happened hope I did not do any damage

Fuel filter 100% correct direction
fuel supply and return pipes 100% correct

thanks for your help Dutchy

 

Xjack that dyi injector tester sounds great I can knock one of thoes up pretty easy
but pls send the link for me to view to use/connect it
Thanks in advance
Dutchy

well all looks like I've got my work cut out for me next week lucky business has just gone quiet for a little while
so all things being good and a bit of luck
hopefully, we will have it up and running by the end of the week
I really appreciate all the help
the neighbors started of bagging me and the Jag
but now they're all hoping for a burst of life
must be feeling sorry for me or can't believe my stubbornness. LOL

 

It is not really possible to check the gap, just replace it. It took me about 10 min. to replace mine, lying under the car.

 

ok you got me M.S I will put it on the list for this week
it will be the last on the list as the other tests/work still sounds easier
its something about the plug on the crank sensor that putting me of the removal of it perhaps
Thanks Dutchy

 

You really need to get these out to 1.2 to ensure a proper burn. These may be 20+ yr old vehicles, but they are precision nonetheless. I've said it many times, spark plugs are the eyes of the motor.

Spark Plug -- Narrow Gap

When the spark plug gap is too narrow, or under specifications, the amount of room needed for the air-fuel mixture between the hot tip and the ground strap is decreased. The duration of the spark has less travel distance, thus not remaining hot enough with sufficient charge to ignite the air-fuel mixture. The symptoms of narrow gap include a noticeable (continuous) cylinder miss, hard starting if all the plugs have narrow gaps, rough idle and engine hesitation. A spark plug that does not fire, resulting from a narrow gap, will appear black or wet when inspected. The black or wet appearance indicates unburned fuel.

Excessive Spark Plug Gap

Excessive spark plug gap results when the voltage has too far to travel. The increased length of the spark travel weakens it, robbing it of the hot, strong ignition charge it needs to fire the plug. Excessive plug gap also results in cylinder misfiring, a possible no-start condition, wet, black or fouled plugs, engine hesitation and rough idle. Excessive spark plug gap also happens as result of normal electrode wear and age.

 

Yes, my friend, it would be wise to reset them
very interesting my car fits some of those outcomes
thanks Dutchy

 

Fuel Pressure too high
Well here's the latest link standing pressure 48 psi & Cranking 46 psi
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1eme...ew?usp=sharing

and photos of standing pressure and cranking pressure
the spark plugs are wet. now the following photos are not done with a liquid filled gauge just a screw on a tire pressure gauge


Standing pressure ign on

cranking pressure