The correct standing pressure is 44 psi; the extra 3-4 psi could be due to the gauge inaccuracy and/or due to the fact that, at standing, since all the fuel pushed by the pump has to go through the FPR (and back to the tank), few extra psi are needed to keep the FPR fully open. The sequence on your video showing the pressure at ignition on also shows that, as soon as the pump stops running, the pressure immediately drops to about 44 psi before it starts gradually bleeding out. So, it looks like there is nothing wrong with your fuel pressure. Even if the fuel pressure is slightly higher, a few extra psi would not cause engine non-start. The reduced pressure of 38 psi will only show when the engine starts, i.e. when the vacuum acting on the FPR comes on.

 

Thank's, M.Stojanovic
so just finished changed the FPR again
and got 46-48 standing ign on then it bleeds down to 36-38 and when cranking goes up to 48psi
Hope that's sorted

then checked the gap don't know what I was thinking but as Highorse said get it right 1.2mm 047 - 051 thou
mine was 033 thou so reset them all

then measured the injectors and subtracted the resistance of test cables
1 side 14.2 - 14.5
2nd side same 14.2 -14.5

I think the rubber that is on the fpr was not seated properly before the plugs when I reset them were wet.
and as I removed the fpr the o ring wasn't on it
so got that right too

then a video of trying everything plugged in and WOT
then MAF sensor unplugged no throttle and then WOT
have a listen see what you think

I did notice no fuel when depressing the bleed button on the gauge so removed the relay and bridged out s/w connections heard it running pressed bleeder till fuel peed out, then put all back together
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1PCN...ew?usp=sharing

Crank sensor is next and no fault codes except when I removed the MAF but all cleared b4 the video


Haven't had the plugs out to look at spark if it has improved that's tomorrows Job
and have a test LED for the injectors firing

 

Be sure to check the connector for CS, it has been reported that rubbish can kick up and damage it.

 

Here's a pdf Avern1 posted a couple years ago to review also....

 

Since you've got scanner, what is you TP % reading at WOT (no need to start the car) ?
4th item on the list:

 

Hi Xjack
TP 5.1 Throttel off
97.3 to 97.6 WOT

 

Called into one of the Jaguar/rover repairers I have been too before, the young guy seems to know what he's talking about.
However as the unnecessary snickering in amongst the parts shelves was uncalled for, I have always given my learned information freely to my customers and it has been greatly appreciated never mind the fees I lose, it always comes back somehow, anyway enough of that I kept my cool
as he emerged with a smirk. at first was quiet unaccommodating as to questioning to check the injectors and any problem with the crank sensor but as time went on he realised I am no dummy anymore and was quite certain it is flooding and or timing
He said that removing the plugs and cranking the engine makes no difference to drying out the cylinder, I have to use compressed air also he said to remove to fuse for the pump as there is remaining pressure in the rail and a leaking injector or when cranking this is where the fuel is coming from causing flooding, I suggested the same by removing both the relays he did not agree?
so I said I will check the injectors for leaking, his reply was that he had seen this before and cranks the engine for no longer than a minute then leaves the car in the sun for 2 hrs and retries and hey presto it starts.
and if it doesn't bring it in.
Now I don't know about you guys but because I haven't got charge me written on my forehead please and do what you like.
I am sure they think I am a real cowboy to which might just be my thinking. but as technician fault finder in my trade's it makes me more determined with a lot of help from genuine people we will get it sorted.
Thanks for listening to my beef
Dutchy
An Injector/test video

 

Feel your pain Dutchy, there are few nice guys in this trade but most will not share the favors, often bringing the car in don't guarantee having it out working and sometimes it will leave worst then it was at beginning. And than comes dealing with deranged egomaniacal youngsters, i can hardly imagine anything less fruitful than that
Back to the subject, i can confirm jags do unflood by WOTing (that's why i asked for your TP reading, it's fine) while WOT tells ecu to cut injectors it wont help if you've got injector stuck open, it will continue flooding the engine as long as there is pressure in the rail. you can just remove relay or fuse and cut the pump, it also works. Assuming you havn't got injector stuck open you could try to unplug the injectors in pairs and see if it starts and if does you will have a culprit.
While blowing cylinders with the compressed air may have some benefits i don't think it is necessary, and leaving the car for two hours.. well it's been there for few days already..
It never hurts to check the timing and have a look under the covers especially if you never did it before.

 

Injecter Update
OK so after noticing that the fuel pressure was slowly dropping to 20 psi over 10 on the fuel rail, I decided to remove the injectors and take for testing
I was interested to see where the fuel came out of the rail so I put the ignition on and nothing I expected to see fuel gushing out somewhere, so I cranked it and Klunk the engine would only turn to say ¼ revolution I thought best leave that alone.

I dropped the injectors off at a local injector test center 2hrs later I went to pick them up he informed me 1 was leaking and all were dirty and bad spray pattern all needed servicing cleaned filters replaced, O ring were soft and ok. So $360 later

Upon returning home I noticed 2 of the injector holes were full to the top with fuel 30 deg day today
Maybe the tank is pressurized and forcing fuel up to the fuel rail I thought, but isn't there a breather so that should not occur, but remembering my Toyota work car does the same so does the Merc so never mind that.

Reinstalled all injectors and sure enough, the engine would not do a complete revolution, wild thoughts of what have I done now.
Checked battery voltage ok 13.4v and checked when cranking at lockup of engine 10.2v
Starter maybe, but tried 2 more times and hey presto she turns over again.

Now thinking about it maybe fuel got down the valves of 1 or more cylinders and they were trying to compress the liquid, eventually, the exhaust valve opened releasing the liquid pressure and thus it turns over again, won't start of course as totally flooded now. Other thing is the fuel rail pressure doesn't hold anymore it goes from 48 to 0 instantly, not good wheres it going now?

So I think
1 pinch off the return line and see if pressure is held (faulty injector)

2 by removing the return connection quick-fit connection and see if fuel keeps running out below 38psi (faulty fpr again)

3 then back to the beginning check spark add oil to cylinders, I also think there would be fuel in the sump by now so better do an oil change as well that's all I can think of at the moment

 

hi dutchy I'm trying to help there's ICM ignition control module in the x308 I think you should check this part

 

If your pressure goes to 0 instantly and didn't do before injectors removal than perhaps one or more o-rings didn't seal properly at installation, or your injector service has o-rings replaced with a fraction smaller than prescribed set (happened to me), you should lubricate o-rings and clean rail properly before plugging injectors otherwise they can roll the seals or just don't seal well. I found them much easier to install after lubricating rail and o-rings with vaseline based grease

 

If you just pulled the injectors out and left the fuel rail in place, quite a bit of fuel flowed down the open hole and into the cylinder(s) which had the inlet valves open at the time. Then, when trying to crank the engine, a piston hit a hydraulic lock in the cylinder which had fuel inside. Always remove the complete fuel rail first before taking the injectors out.

 

Mobile1
I will find where it is and find out how to test it
Thanks all help is most welcome
Regards Dutchy

 

Thanks, Xjack and M.S
I will remove the rail and work out if I can make some sort of pressure system using the fpr aswell by buy a pump
see what happens first with the injectors in as they are
then I will work while it's out on Xjack's idea
what do you think?
any hints on the ICM that mobile1 talks about
Dutchy

 

There are two ICMs, one for each bank, located near the vacuum brake booster. It is unlikely that they both failed simultaneously. If one ICM fails, the engine would still start and run on one bank and the failure would clearly be shown by the fault codes. Otherwise, there is no simple way to test them other than try with another ICM.

Did you replace the crank sensor? (I thought you said that you already received a new one).

 

So far today I removed the injectors checked the o rings all ok
then lubricated the rings with oil from the dip stick now its clean and fresh
put 12v across each one felt a click (solenoid) pushed them into place they snapped into place easily.
then using my refrigeration pinchers clamed the cross over hose and ran the pump by jumpimg the relay pushed the valve on the rail heaps of fuel, then turned off the pump waited a while and pushed the valve still agood spirt ok
moved over to the second bank and did the same then pinched off the return after the norma or quickfit fitting and the same result so I am happy with the injectors pressure gauge gave up the ghost and the liquid fill one arrived 2 days ago but diffrent thread sizes so some work to adapt there
then I have removed all the plugs again and thought the gap of 1.2mm 47-50 odd thou remember I am now using the BKR5EIX-11 plugs now is that correct While there out I will crank the engine over to avoid Hydro lock as M Stojanovic has pointed out
anyway, I have set up my test board to see late this afternoon what the spark is like.
for the rest of the day, I am moving on to the crank sensor
then as M.S suggested on to the ICM's and ECM
thanks all
look out for the plug test tonight
Dutchy

 

It is darker than it actually was but as Highorse commented on the first plug and really the second one they seem erratic not to say there aren't other things to check but the passenger side seem much more constant
Drivers (RHD)
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1UIl...ew?usp=sharing
Passenger
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Atu...ew?usp=sharing

 

Now the sparks can be seen much better. Both sides and all sparks are actually not good - one fairly good (orange) spark followed by a few very weak sparks and some are missing completely. I suggest you just put everything back together and go to the crank sensor. Before removing it, try first with just unplugging the sensor connector and pushing it back again, a few times. If still no start, replace the sensor.

 

I like your determination.

There are several non start causes. Below are the most common.

1. Short trip when cold, restart flooding - caused by an old 'cold start cycle' ecu software, this was updated by Jaguar, and many threads cover the oil down the bores restart.
2. Nikasil liner failure - this generally shows as prolonged cranking, loss of compression and eventually no start. Again a well covered issue with early AJ26 units.
3. Fuel pump failure - no fuel pressure, a new fuel pump fix.
4. CPS or ETS sensor to ECU failure - inhibits start.
5. Bad Earth, either engine, battery, bulkhead or fusebox.
6. Inertia switch.

With spark and fuel - how is your compression?
I would suggest checking both the Crank position sensor connector and the Engine Temperature sensor connection as these are startup monitored by the ECU, if it doesn't get a signal from either it won't start the car. Unplug, contact cleaner, re plug.

 

Ok
1 can be ruled out as it was driven from the transmission shop 50 min drive
2 I have tried adding oil to each cylinder and the engine sounds much different to cranking without the plugs in ( But have not done a compression test yet)
3 fuel pump replaced Ignition on 44pst drops to 38 next post shows latest pressure with a liquid filled gauge however I have not cranked it as M.S said earlier about all the bouncing around.
4 crank sensor replaced with a second-hand unit today waiting till sunset to look at spark.
ETS haven't been down that road yet
5 earthing I have checked the cables to starter motor and voltage looking for drop boot/trunk looks fine but haven't dismantled any yet.
6 inertial switch checked and ok
all faults are cleared.
it parked in the driveway fine then I went to start about 1 week later and nothing but cranking.
it sure is a good one
thanks
Dutchy