Crank Position Sensor test?
#1
Crank Position Sensor test?
Further to my efforts to troubleshoot the no start issue on my girlfriend's car I'd like to figure out if the CPS is working OK.
In searching the forum I've seen references to testing the CPS but no actual description of how that's done.
I'm assuming it's a matter of checking resistance across the sensor with an ohmmeter? Could anyone describe that test and what the reading should be?
Thanks!
In searching the forum I've seen references to testing the CPS but no actual description of how that's done.
I'm assuming it's a matter of checking resistance across the sensor with an ohmmeter? Could anyone describe that test and what the reading should be?
Thanks!
#2
download this book. It is the bible for those engines.
AJ6 4.0L Engine Management System Diagnostic Guide.pdf
AJ6 4.0L Engine Management System Diagnostic Guide.pdf
The following 3 users liked this post by BlackX300VDP:
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#8
No junkyads close by but if it looks like the sensor is shot I'll just buy a new one.
You guys will love this question but how the @#$% does the connector come off that thing??? Not a lot of clearance to get a hand in there but I've been prying and pulling and it doesn't budge! Looking at and feeling it there doesn't seem to be a release or anything to get it off. What am I missing? Do I just have to pull harder?
You guys will love this question but how the @#$% does the connector come off that thing??? Not a lot of clearance to get a hand in there but I've been prying and pulling and it doesn't budge! Looking at and feeling it there doesn't seem to be a release or anything to get it off. What am I missing? Do I just have to pull harder?
#9
Hello Everyone This is my first post here. I am currently working on my friends 1993 XJ40. The car doesn't start. I've checked the fuel and ingnition lines and circuits and they all seem to be fine. I've checked the CKP sensor and my multimeter showed an open line. The resistance should be obout 1,35 kOhm. I believe the sensor is dead. I am going to replace it asap. Unfortunately, I don't have an osciloscope, to be perfectly sure. I apologize for my english. U can point my mistakes, so I will improve in the future
#10
Hello Everyone This is my first post here. I am currently working on my friends 1993 XJ40. The car doesn't start. I've checked the fuel and ingnition lines and circuits and they all seem to be fine. I've checked the CKP sensor and my multimeter showed an open line. The resistance should be obout 1,35 kOhm. I believe the sensor is dead. I am going to replace it asap. Unfortunately, I don't have an osciloscope, to be perfectly sure. I apologize for my english. U can point my mistakes, so I will improve in the future
Your English is excellent. Your XJ40 checking is also careful.
It's a few years since I had an XJ40 but, as I recall, the CKP on mine just died without any advance warning of failure. Experts here will jump in if there's any further tests to run before replacing it.
Please post in the New Member Area - Intro a MUST and introduce yourself and your friend's XJ40 to all the members.
Graham
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#12
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: central massachusetts
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My 93 died then wouldnt start,after going through testing everything including the rotor which all tested within spec,tried a new rotor and started up and is running fine. you may want to try a new rotor as the same thing happened to my brothers 81 about 30 yrs ago and it also was the rotor.
#13
My 93 died then wouldnt start,after going through testing everything including the rotor which all tested within spec,tried a new rotor and started up and is running fine. you may want to try a new rotor as the same thing happened to my brothers 81 about 30 yrs ago and it also was the rotor.
#15
Yeah, I didn't think about the 'distribution rotor'. I've looked at it, and cleaned it up a little. Is it possible, that clean rotor and distrubutor cap, that are in "not so bad" condition could prevent the car from starting? It's all clean and dry, the ignition coil resistances are within parameters. I sure hope it's the CKP, because it costs over 100$ here original part from JAG dealer.
#16
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On my car the rotor had continuity but still wouldnt create any spark,put a new one in and started right up. on the old rotor I then proceded to take the orange sealer that was between the brass parts,there was a material that looked like what they use in plug wires it wasnt broken but it wouldnt pass enough amps to fire the plugs.Sort of like when a wire with a fuseable link fails.
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