Well if you haven't guessed by now not only am i new to the forums but new to jaguars to.

After losing a motor in my truck i was put in a tight spot to find a decent car with little money.

I happened across a 1994 jaguar xj6 on sleezbay. When it was all said and done it was mine for a mere $410.






Picked the car up today and happily it runs and drives great. Yet i have 2
annoying problems i plan on tackling tomorrow and was hopping for a few leads for a good start.

I am very mechanically inclined (volvo tech 8 years) and have a full assortment of tools so im pretty much set as far as ability.

1. None of the power windows will work at all. No up No down No sounds when trying to use them.

2. None of the doors open from the outside but all will open from inside the car. The owner had a friend come over and take the drivers panel off and did something with the actuator rod from the handle to ?lock motor? but i couldn't get a good look at what he was doing.

Any typical problems with the car i should look for are welcome.


Sorry for making this longer then necessary but just wanted to throw the extra info in now. Thanks in advanced everyone.

 

Congrats, they're great cars and you just stole one.

The exterior handles fail frequently, but you'll have to pull the interior door panels and inspect each one to make sure of the faults. The latch mechanisms also break, and on rare occasions there is just a plastic linkage clip that has come adrift. If you want to send me a private message when you have a shopping list, I have good used handles and latches in stock.

The window fault is not common, but checking all the fuses in both footwell fuseboxes is the best place to start: a test light on each fuse terminal works best. If you don't find an obvious problem there, I'll have a look at the schematic and give you a few other places to poke around. If you are searching for a wiring diagram yourself, you need 1993-1994 XJ6/ Vanden Plas only.

By the way, I lost the motor in my Ford Ranger, and now use my 1992 XJ6 for a pickup. The back seat comes out in a flash, and I've lugged everything but engines while acquiring/ delivering parts... 184K and ready for more. Your Jag will serve you well, enjoy.

 

Thank you for the welcome and yeah i drove away feeling pretty good about the deal. Sorry for not making my request as clear as i should have.


My plan was to start with the basics of proper power and ground at switches, fuses and relays. I was looking for either the knowledge of the wiring schematic for the switches and such. Also if the the power window
set up was run separately for each or if one was fed off of another.
I found it weird that none of them worked. Basic thought lead me to believe it would be a common problem.
Do you know of any where online aka free
where i can view the wiring diagram or at least recommend competent publisher of a service manual as it would make life easy.

Once again thank you

 

By the way, I grew up in Philly...lived a bit near Morristown, a bit in Hammonton.

I don't know where to direct you to a free schematic, best source is a repair CD on Ebay for cheap.

All windows are fed through the driver's switch pack. Like I said, there is not a common fault that kills all the windows, and I don't do maybeeeees. If you verify power through every fuse in the car first, I'll look into it a bit.

 

If you can find Jaguar publication S-65/93, that's a book of all the circuit diagrams.

No click means the fault is upstream. Left fusebox (footwell), fuse B1, 30A. That should be the top one in the center row. If you see any signs of corrosion, that's because it's corroded: '93-'94 cars have a bigtime problem with water ingress into the fuse boxes, and you may have to look no farther.

If so, pull LF door panel for access to connections at the driver's door switchpack. White /brown lead is an ignition switched ground, test for ground potential with key on.

Brown/ purple is the feed, it had better have power (direct battery feed from fusebox).

If you haven't found a problem yet, disconnect the drivers window motor and use jumper wires to make sure the motor works. Feed one side and ground the other to run the motor: switch the leads to reverse the motor direction. Get that far and let me know what's going on. The motor should work just fine, I doubt you lost all four window lift motors.

Each window switch pack has two internal relays, there is no central one for the circuit. Each window switchpack gets its own independant power feed, the driver's switchpack does the ground switching.

 

Congrats , you have a great ride from now on
Hey, JTC thanks for your helps on our new member as well , you rule the thread to the bits and much

 

Thanks Caddy, the boy did pretty well for his $410.00, didn't he?

 

You're welcome JTO
He really did a great deal

 

Thanks again JTC and Cadillac. I did some searching and i wasn't able to find anything online for the schematics but i was able to find a copy of all data onlineand this should serve me well. Unfortunately its down pouring today and i will have to put the work off till tomorrow. Personally with the info you just provided i believe finding the gremlin will be straight forward.

The next couple days will be me reading threw the service bulletins and
going threw the car for any preventative maintenance i can do.

The warm welcome the quick reply's have been great ill check back later with updates.

 

Cool, hit me up if you need anything. I have a good used driver's switchpack, and that might end up being what it takes.

 

JagNewbie,

Welcome to the world of Jaguar.

I know I had some problems with my rear door handles when I initially received my 88 VDP. I first shot some WD-40 into the handles via the small hole beneath the exterior handles. I let that soak for 24 hours. My doors then began to open but were a little stiff. I then removed the interior door panels and majorly sprayed all the moving pars for the handles. The problem hasn't surfaced again in the 2 years I've owned the car.

Should you get to the point of removing the door panels, feel free to liberally spray WD-40 on every moving part. Try to get to the window motors as well.

As a side note, the door handles were supposedly made of cheap pot metal which is prone to breaking due to extended usage. If you keep these handle well lubricated, you should extend the life of the door handles. There is a plethora of information regarding your problems at Jag-lovers.com.

Hope this helps

 

UPDATE


Ok well i have a bad drivers side fue box. I have power at the fuse but it wasnt making it out the box. I took the fuse panel apart and it doesnt
seem like something i want to un soder apart to find the bad part.

For now i have run a wire from the 12 v terminal hook up on the back of the fuse panel to the feed wire on the harness for the drivers switch pack and installed a 30 amp fuse inline untill i get a new fuse panel.

My drivers window now work but the back one doesnt.

Tech should the back window work now to?

 

Point 1: You're welcome, glad I could help.

Point 2: You can't get a new fusebox. The fix you adopted is as good as it gets, and will be sufficient.

Point 3: You started out with no windows operational. Do you now have one working, or three? The status is unclear from your post. If it's just one rear at fault, you still have to start at the fuseboxes: like I said, they all get power feeds from different sources.

 

Point 2: Im probably gonna try to get my hands on another bad one and see if its possiable to repair before i end up with 20+ hacked up wires.

Point 3: My apologies for my quick post. I now have a drivers window that works and none else. I know you said each window has its own 12v source. Just for my clarification i assume it gets it from the same fuse since the panel says left front and rear for the fuse. But does it get it from the same wire out of the harness or does the one fuse feed multiple outputs on the harness?

Also im going to send you a message soon regarding parts i need for the doors. Seems i had a combo of failures.

Once again thanks for the help

 

Point 2: This is about the time when I go to Ebay, and start looking around for a guy who is selling a variety of parts from a particular model (1993-1994 only, in the case of the sacred fuse box). I send him a message and say, "Hey, it looks like you parted a car out. I'll give you $25.00 for the left fusebox". He thinks it's his lucky day, you get a fusebox that cost $150.00 new back when you could still get them, which hasn't been for at least two years.

Point 3: You won't get this anywhere else, but here's the next place I would look before I blew alot of time: the water ingress on '93-'94 can get more than just the fusebox. Pull the fusebox aside, pull out the foam insulation pad behind it. You're looking around in the cavity just in front of the A post section. That's where the connector is from the Left Bulkhead harness to the Left Door harness. It's a small white rectangular connector with about 20 pins...and they probably won't all be there when you pull it apart.

If you were getting that much water in the fusebox, the connector probably got it too, and is badly corroded. You lose power window, mirror, door lock and security functions, depending on what pins are rotted. That's a guess from afar as to what your problem is, but it will probably save us both alot of troubleshooting.

Selling parts once in a while is the only tangible return I get from being here, and your business would be appreciated.

 

Great info. I have a dozen bosch/volvo engine harness connectors that are weather tight. I will more then likely swap to these since this seems to be an issue. Sounds like it would be worth the extra 30-60 mins to do both sides. If it works out well and is a good replacement i would be happy to do a write up on it and provide pictures if the community could use something like this. The connectors are a dime a dozen and can be hacked off of a harness at almost any junk yard due to the wires dry rotting.


Is it safe to assume that both the left and right fuse panels are identical internally? i haven't gotten to the passenger side yet.


Also just for info, i got to do some real driving with the car today and i was beyond impressed with the quality of comfort and complete powerband of this car. I swear if it had a sunroof my joy ride might have included an orgasm. I cant believe what i got for my money i am truly impressed.

 

They are kickass cars, tough as nails, it's just little **** that people let accumulate while they cuss the car out. My '92 has 185K on it, I delivered a trans to Florida a short time back, like 1700 miles in 36 hours.

The water ingress point is on the upper frame members, beneath the front fenders. There was a detailed procedure from Jaguar on how to waterproof everything, but they never owned up to the cause or how to fix it right...pull the fenders and start sealing. And the cowl grille at the base of the windscreen.

There's no reason to assume the leak is bad on both sides, proceed at your own discretion. I'll be surprised if that is not your main problem, though.

 

I think the soggy padding i found under both sides of the carpet is a good clue.

I haven't lost any of the things you listed i would lose if the harness is bad but if i have it all apart i mine as well take care of week spots. I'm pretty sure its the same issue on the other side since its the same symptoms. I was able to confirm the switched ground from the drivers pack was making it to the passenger front switch harness. i didnt go any futher at that point since i was pretty much beat tired and had one thing on my mind.

Once i have all data functioning tomorrow (my server died last night) i will be able to see exactly where/what terminal the rear windows get thier dedicated 12v from i think this problem will be history. (crosses fingers)

 

Other common water ingress faults:

Blocked A/C evaporator drains (obviously not your problem)

Blocked cowl drain. On the firewall, bottom of the windshield wiper housing, rubber boot (:duckbill"). It's plugged with crap, also freezes shut in winter, and the water backs up to fill the plenum and runs into the fresh air flap inlets, fill the blower motors, and soaks your floors.

The fuseboxes get wet one way, and it ain't either of those.

 

Rf door switchpack:

5 input, two output

Brown/ blue, 12v (batt. feed) from right fusebox, B1, 30A
White/ brown, ignition switched ground
Black, chassis ground
Blue/red, "up"signal (ground) from driver's switchpcack (switch depressed)
Blue/ Purple, "down" signal from driver's switchpack (switch depressed)

If the passenger's door switch pack is receiving these inputs, test outputs:

Orange/ blue
Orange/ black

These will flip-flop because of relay switching, one will be hot while the other is ground depending upon which direction the switch is pressed. Obviously if you have a feed and ground here, then the window motor they are connected to has failed.

Either there is no feed to the RF switch, or no signal from the driver's switchpack, or a failed connection en route to the RF switchpack, or the RF switchpack is faulty. That's all the info you need to find the correct point of failure.

One minor point of order to correct: the 12v feeds to all four switch packs are identified as being separate, however when traced back to the fuseboxes, both left side switchpacks get power from the same fuse, LH fusbox, B1. Both right side switchpacks get their power from the same fuse, RH fusebox, B1.