1972 Series I XJ4 4.2L driver window replacement
#1
1972 Series I XJ4 4.2L driver window replacement
I'm new on here so sorry if there's anything I'm doing wrong, but recently I bought a 1972 XJ6 and when I bought it the driver and passenger door windows were busted out, so I found the two glass panels from a junk yard and am working with a Haynes manual to try and put them in. I've gotten the door card and all other trim off the door but wasn't able to get the window in as was described in the manual. I committed a cardinal sin and bent the rail in which the window slides and got the window in the rails and bent it back into place and all is fine and dandy...except I can't figure out how to get the window rail onto the round wheel on the end of the window regulator arm. As of now I just have the window rested on the arm and raised to the highest position in order to keep it water tight, however it is not properly affixed and I was wondering if anyone had done this or has any tips to offer.
My next plan of action is to drill through wherever is holding the plastic wheel on the arm and sliding it in the rail on the window pane then just using a bolt through the hole and a nut to reattach the wheel to the arm but I'd rather not, I'm sure there's a proper way to do it I just can't figure it out.
Any tips much appreciated!
My next plan of action is to drill through wherever is holding the plastic wheel on the arm and sliding it in the rail on the window pane then just using a bolt through the hole and a nut to reattach the wheel to the arm but I'd rather not, I'm sure there's a proper way to do it I just can't figure it out.
Any tips much appreciated!
#2
I have spent many hours and sacrificed a couple knuckles working on the front windows haha.
if you are talking about the plastic wheel towards the back of the car then I might have some tips.
This is from a series 3, which could be very similar.
there is a short (15cm) rail that the wheel rolls in on the side of the interior side of the door towards the back of the car on the door. The rear most bolt that hold this to the door can be removed and will allow the rail to tilt up and down.
If you unbolt the electric motor (assuming electric windows) you can move the whole thing around inside the door to get the wheel in the rail.
Unbolting the motor Can also help getting the plastic wheel in place too.
Id suggest taping the window in the upright position and be prepared for everything to get a lot worse when you try and et the motor back in place haha, it's a terrible job.
I'd have a good look to see if what I'm discribing will work for you before doing anything though as my memory is fuzzy.
Hopefully someone else will chime in too.
good luck!
if you are talking about the plastic wheel towards the back of the car then I might have some tips.
This is from a series 3, which could be very similar.
there is a short (15cm) rail that the wheel rolls in on the side of the interior side of the door towards the back of the car on the door. The rear most bolt that hold this to the door can be removed and will allow the rail to tilt up and down.
If you unbolt the electric motor (assuming electric windows) you can move the whole thing around inside the door to get the wheel in the rail.
Unbolting the motor Can also help getting the plastic wheel in place too.
Id suggest taping the window in the upright position and be prepared for everything to get a lot worse when you try and et the motor back in place haha, it's a terrible job.
I'd have a good look to see if what I'm discribing will work for you before doing anything though as my memory is fuzzy.
Hopefully someone else will chime in too.
good luck!
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British_Atlantic (03-07-2017)
#3
It is a fun job of taking out the motor/regulator and tipping it all correctly to get the roller into the slot. Be sure your roller is still "round" - new rollers are available at hardware stores for the bottoms of screen doors.. then it will attach with a bolt and nut.
Clean out the drain holes in the bottom of the door! Lube all the door and lock mechanism while in there... be sure to put back plastic onto the door frame between the door card. This is also a good time to replace the rubber pieces on the inside and outside of the windows that wipe it off.
Haynes manual are usually not good enough to fix most Jaguar problems...
Clean out the drain holes in the bottom of the door! Lube all the door and lock mechanism while in there... be sure to put back plastic onto the door frame between the door card. This is also a good time to replace the rubber pieces on the inside and outside of the windows that wipe it off.
Haynes manual are usually not good enough to fix most Jaguar problems...
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British_Atlantic (03-07-2017)
#4
Yeah the roller is for sure oblong, so I guess it sounds like my best bet would be to go ahead and just drill it out and replace it, removing the motor seems like it'd be even more work and I'd still have a bad roller, I'll go ahead and just replace it, I'm assuming I'll need to do the same for the rear as well. Thank you!
#5
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British_Atlantic (03-07-2017)
#7
I have changed out several regulator rollers and have never seen one that is oblong.. just ones that were loose or worn out completely... usually the drivers window.
Easy to drill out the old rivet... not sure how you could tighten the nut on the rear with it all together in the slot? Having had window motors, locks and regulators out several
times... I would just take out the motor and regulator.
Wait until you try to change the vent window mechanisms that wear out and their rubber seals... much more fun. Door hinges are also a lot of grief...
Easy to drill out the old rivet... not sure how you could tighten the nut on the rear with it all together in the slot? Having had window motors, locks and regulators out several
times... I would just take out the motor and regulator.
Wait until you try to change the vent window mechanisms that wear out and their rubber seals... much more fun. Door hinges are also a lot of grief...