1976 XJ6 value
I'm looking at a 1976 XJ6 that is for sale in my local area, and I'm looking to get an estimated value range for this car.
As for the condition of the vehicle, it looks like most of the electronics are in working order. The driver's window is the only one that seems to be working at the moment. The interior could use some love, especially the seats and the interior door panels...those will probably need a complete replacement. I was told (but unable to verify) that the AC is only a couple of years old and in good working order. All the glass looks good and has not cracks/chips.
The trunk all seems to be complete with a spare tire. The owner's son said he was told to not use the passenger side tank, but he was not sure why he was told that.
This car has the Chevy 350/TH400 conversion, and the engine will need some (very little) work to be in running condition. It has around 120,000 miles on the clock. I was also told that the brakes were recently replaced and there are receipts for this. The paint is decent, although the clear coat is peeling pretty bad in places. There also seems to be little to no rust, but the car was transplanted from the east coast somewhere and now resides in the AZ desert. I did not see any indications of an accident. All doors, trunk and hood open as they should, and all body lines look like they should.
If there are any other issues that I should look into/answer to get a better idea of the value, please let me know.
As for the condition of the vehicle, it looks like most of the electronics are in working order. The driver's window is the only one that seems to be working at the moment. The interior could use some love, especially the seats and the interior door panels...those will probably need a complete replacement. I was told (but unable to verify) that the AC is only a couple of years old and in good working order. All the glass looks good and has not cracks/chips.
The trunk all seems to be complete with a spare tire. The owner's son said he was told to not use the passenger side tank, but he was not sure why he was told that.
This car has the Chevy 350/TH400 conversion, and the engine will need some (very little) work to be in running condition. It has around 120,000 miles on the clock. I was also told that the brakes were recently replaced and there are receipts for this. The paint is decent, although the clear coat is peeling pretty bad in places. There also seems to be little to no rust, but the car was transplanted from the east coast somewhere and now resides in the AZ desert. I did not see any indications of an accident. All doors, trunk and hood open as they should, and all body lines look like they should.
If there are any other issues that I should look into/answer to get a better idea of the value, please let me know.
inspect in person, do not rely on what the seller says, or you will be in for surprises. We all like to be told how great everything is when talking to seller. But when you see and test the car, it's always a different movie.
Rule Number 1 of old car buying: Never buy a car sight unseen.
Value of the car? in the $700.00 to $1,200.00 range depending on condition. Usually less. The tank must be leaking, costs around $600.00 for labor and new tank or to refurbish old tank plus bad electronic solenoids, hoses, who knows what else might be lurking there.
Paint job, exhaust system, it's a money pit from the start.
Rule Number 1 of old car buying: Never buy a car sight unseen.
Value of the car? in the $700.00 to $1,200.00 range depending on condition. Usually less. The tank must be leaking, costs around $600.00 for labor and new tank or to refurbish old tank plus bad electronic solenoids, hoses, who knows what else might be lurking there.
Paint job, exhaust system, it's a money pit from the start.
The biggest issue with Series 2 cars that have been lumped is the condition of the body shell, ie.RUST !! These cars were NOT very well protected against rust, and this car is 44 years old; plenty of time for the demon to do its work.
Lumping was probably done because the old engine had block cracking making it uneconomic to repair. How well this conversion was done you'll only find out by personal inspection. Pretty much all of the rest of the mechanical stuff like brakes and suspension can be done on a DIY basis, but is very labour intensive, so costly if done at a shop even though the parts are quite reasonable in price.
If you're happy to undertake a lot of work, Jaguars can be very beguiling cars, the shape is so elegant, and the ride is like a Magic Carpet. Just don't expect it all to be easy, though. FWIW, I rebuilt a Mark 2, sold it, then had a 1980 XJ6 for 14 years that I also did a huge amount of work on. Still driving a Jag today !!
Lumping was probably done because the old engine had block cracking making it uneconomic to repair. How well this conversion was done you'll only find out by personal inspection. Pretty much all of the rest of the mechanical stuff like brakes and suspension can be done on a DIY basis, but is very labour intensive, so costly if done at a shop even though the parts are quite reasonable in price.
If you're happy to undertake a lot of work, Jaguars can be very beguiling cars, the shape is so elegant, and the ride is like a Magic Carpet. Just don't expect it all to be easy, though. FWIW, I rebuilt a Mark 2, sold it, then had a 1980 XJ6 for 14 years that I also did a huge amount of work on. Still driving a Jag today !!
Thank you, Jose and Fraser, for the replies. I actually did inspect the car in person, but it was a brief visit, at the end of my workday, on a very HOT day.
I do need to take another look to check for any rust that may be an issue. I would also check to see if the mechanic (it's currently at the shop) would know what is up with the passenger side tank.
With that, IF I were to decide to move ahead with price negotiation, what would you advise on the best plan of attack? From the online price guides, I see values for this model/year in "Fair" condition to be anywhere from $3,500-$5,700...MUCH higher than the $700-$1,200 you're talking about, Jose. I did see in another, much older, post that you advise a $500 deduction per issue/excuse in the condition of the vehicle...
I do need to take another look to check for any rust that may be an issue. I would also check to see if the mechanic (it's currently at the shop) would know what is up with the passenger side tank.
With that, IF I were to decide to move ahead with price negotiation, what would you advise on the best plan of attack? From the online price guides, I see values for this model/year in "Fair" condition to be anywhere from $3,500-$5,700...MUCH higher than the $700-$1,200 you're talking about, Jose. I did see in another, much older, post that you advise a $500 deduction per issue/excuse in the condition of the vehicle...
With that, IF I were to decide to move ahead with price negotiation, what would you advise on the best plan of attack? From the online price guides, I see values for this model/year in "Fair" condition to be anywhere from $3,500-$5,700...MUCH higher than the $700-$1,200 you're talking about, Jose. I did see in another, much older, post that you advise a $500 deduction per issue/excuse in the condition of the vehicle...
Does the price guide you consulted consider that the car is lumped? "Fair" condition with original engine or with chevy engine? Does it say? If it doesn't, it usually assumes a car with the original engine.
a Jaguar that does not have the Jaguar engine does not command the amount of money the price guide says. That is where I come from. Sure, it may have a more powerful engine, but resale value is not powerful. I am not putting it down, but the fact is that lumped cars don't sell for premium money, so assuming the car runs, you can attack the fact that the car does not come with the original engine, even if you like the idea of a chevy engine. That is a good plan of attack if you really want the car. Offer half of the asking price. What are they asking? Remember that "asking price" is never "getting price". Start low and decide on a maximum you will pay.
Another rule of old car buying: "Remember that you are buying someone else's problem".
This rule never fails to bite back.
Last edited by Jose; Jul 26, 2020 at 06:28 PM.
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