XJ6 & XJ12 Series I, II & III 1968-1992

4.2l, 0 deg. [email protected] rpm should be 14 btdc?

 
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Old 08-17-2011, 04:12 PM
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Default 4.2l, 0 deg. [email protected] rpm should be 14 btdc?

83 xj6 4.2l

hi people, have installed new wires,cap and rotor. Checked ht and lt coil wiring and function. Just checked timing w/light. 0 degrees at 800 rpm w/vacuum advance disconnected. 6-8 btdc with vacuum on. Owners manual says 14 btdc w/o vacuum. Any suggestions other than that? also what tool or combination do i need to loosen distributor clamp? i fooled around for an hour trying to get on it. Thanks!
 
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Old 08-18-2011, 04:12 AM
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Definately not timed correctly.

The mechanical advance mechanism (in the bottom of the distributor) may be sticking from lack of lubrication. Not normally a real issue with the 6 cyl as compared to the V12, but I would dead set check it BEFORE undoing any timing bolts.

The timing plate to the block is a 7/16AF, or 11mm spanner size, and the power steer pump bracket is in the way from memory. The cross bolt on that same plate, is also the same size, and have FUN trying to get spanners on that, it is a plain PAIN.
 
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Old 08-18-2011, 10:35 AM
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Thanks for your reply grant, will definitely check and lube mechanism. I managed to get 11mm socket on it. No ratchet, just socket. The car runs smooth just no snap. Hoping this does it. We visited your beautiful city in '99 on our honeymoon. Took train to wine country, rode back in a '57 chevy wagon from a guy with a classic car limo service. Really good guy, can't remember his name,getting old! Thanks again, terry
 
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Old 08-18-2011, 04:12 PM
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Lubrication on these Lucas distibutors is normally done by taking off the rotor then putting a few drops of light oil down the middle of the shaft, which you will find is tubular. YOu could also try grabbing the rotor and twisting it back and fro to make sure it is free. The mechanism does wear as well, as its all mechanical and was never designed for the kind of mileages these cars are possibly up to 30 years later.

I worked at Lucas once, now all the factories have gone. Do I hear you all cheering ? Actually the people I worked with were very clever and good engineers, but the bean counters ruined the company, as they do everywhere.
 
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Old 08-18-2011, 05:26 PM
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Hey fraser, thanks will do. Only about 75k miles on it. I also have a '52 studebaker with braided cloth/shellaced wiring, much of which disintegrated leaving a whole lot of bare wire. Studebaker was in business over 100 yrs, also done in by bean counters. How many electrical problems have you solved by unplugging and plugging back in?
I can't begin to count the ones i've done. As for lucas, my cars are 21 and 28 yrs old. Whose wiring can we expect to stand up that long? Thanks,terry
 
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Old 08-19-2011, 12:48 PM
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The Luca wiring was pretty good as far as I experienced it, although made to the standards of the time with the "bullets" and spade connectors, no fancy modern multi-pin plugs !

Only wiring which gets really tired and brittle is the loom around the engine for the fuel injection and ignition.
 
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Old 08-19-2011, 01:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Fraser Mitchell View Post
The Luca wiring was pretty good as far as I experienced it, although made to the standards of the time with the "bullets" and spade connectors, no fancy modern multi-pin plugs !

Only wiring which gets really tired and brittle is the loom around the engine for the fuel injection and ignition.

Noticed this myself just in having to strip back the insulation to make repairs, that wiring insulation is the toughest I've encountered. The wiring in these cars seems to be relatively durable and well made.
 
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Old 08-20-2011, 04:22 PM
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Good news! Finally got dist. Clamp loosened(6" flexible extension from autozone). Took 25 mi. Drive, runs like a different car. As much trouble as it is, bet advance was setback to run on regular gas. Probably going to take lot of driving to get all the carbon blown out. Owners manual says do not use fuel with methanol/ethanol additives; and where would you find that exactly?
 
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Old 08-21-2011, 07:57 AM
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Back in 1983 or before, and when your book/s were printed, all sorts of things were suggested for different markets.

I believe some markets had Ethanol fuel back then, not sure, we did NOT.

We have it here now, at some locations, and I do not use it in ANY Jaguar, EVER.

Some markets are not so lucky, coz Ethanol is in all the fuels sold so precautions of which I have NO idea are taken I think.

Methanol, at least down here, is Racing Fuel, and is Illegal now and near impossible to buy without a permit or something.

Try and use the highest octane fuel available, and "non-additive" if possible.

Others on your side of the globe will chime in with local market suggestions sooner or later.
Much like the oil spec back then, which here was SE rated, and you simply cannot buy SE anywhere, so later/latest spec is used without any issues.
 
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Old 08-21-2011, 11:54 AM
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Not really a choice in the US, as far as ethanol goes. Due to vote pandering to corn growing states over a completely unsustainable and stupid alternative fuel idea....I mean due to environmental concerns (), pretty much all commercially available in the US is 10% ethanol. Shouldn't be a big deal, I wouldn't worry about it. Just make sure it doesn't ping where your timing is set and you'll be alright.
 
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