Only driver's window works. I have had zip luck diagnosing the issue. Tried swapping a rear pass switch with front passenger, no luck. Had power to the switch, tried direct ground to chassis. The switch I swapped into the front passenger position does move power when pressed, so I'm thinking it's a ground fault, as per the Haynes manual, but I am stumped. Think it must be driver's switch, as the other three went DOA all at same time. Couldn't work the driver's switch out of the aftermarket wood ski slope and ran out of time. Advice?

 

If the driver window works then nothing is wrong with it, and the old mantra applies: If it isn't broken don't mess with it.
If your new switch worked on the passenger window then the fault is with the switch.
If none of the others work no matter what you do then the fault is with each window.
The window wiring on the back of the switches is sort of critical to proper operation. One wire out of place and they don't work correctly.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...1/#post1696183

Each door has its own ground, a braided wire cable from the innards of the door to the pillar. Usually this is a good ground, but not always as the wires can break off one at a time until none are left.
(';')

Switches can be disassembled, cleaned and reassembled with not much trouble. I've cleaned several of mine.

 

Agree with Elinor to a point.

ALL my Series 2 cars had odd window operation at one time or another.

The drivers window switch is what is called the Master, and the issue is "usually" the "pass through" volts to the other 2, or 5, in the Sedan scenario. Exactly like a Daisy Chain.

That is why, when the drivers window is being used, the other windows are dead, until that switch returns to the :rest" position, and the "pass through" volts is returned.

I have pages of scribbles in the shed somewhere, and will dig them out tomorrow, put them into legible order, delete the "BAD" words, and give you a clue as to what I found.

First car took me weeks to sort, NO Forums/Computers/etc in those days, it was one wire at a time, and when that did not work, trying to think like a Pom, and why on earth it was done this way.

 

Also, at least on my XJ6C, there is no separate ground strap for the two doors.

 

Grant, I had to smile about you pre-internet comment. How did we survive back then? BTW, for those of us in America, what is a "Pom"?

Regarding the othe comment, in my experience window motors are never grounded very well. On my 79 which is an SIII but has a ton of SII parts and systems, I cleaned up all the contacts and ran a big new ground wire from the motors back into the cabin and to a known good ground. All of my windows now are not fast .... they are blazing fast.

Jeff

 

I suspect lack of ground is the issue as well.

Thanks for the tip.

 

*Really!*
Thank you, Grant, I had No idea---Obviously.

My car got a Lot of "modifications" during Restomod in 1986. Quite a lot of electrical work was done, but as I have little idea how it was in the beginning, I simply thought the ground straps were OEM.
Sorry.........

It's quite interesting to learn so much about this car I've owned for over 5 years from this forum I've haunted for nearly as long. Nearly every day I learn something new here.
(';')

 

A Pom or Pommie is slang for an Englishman.........
As is Yank for American or Aussie for Australian.

 

We had BEER mate, lots of BEER, and actually used the grey matter between our ears, God given.

A "Pom" is a British person.

I agree with the earth fiasco, as in earth via a door hinge full of grease and rusty goo, not smart at all. Most of mine had a SMALL braided strap aronud the upper door hinge for earth purposes, but usually broken, or secured to a painted area, oops.

 

Elinor,

You have done WONDERS with Nix, and I know for fact,, that many others here would have given up.

I do remember the Electrickery thread you had years ago, oh boy, that was a smoke and mirrors task, but you solved it.

Series 2 windows are a LUCAS SPECIAL, and many have never worked them out.

 

OK, found it, so did the Mice, MONGRELS, and a few Huntsman Spiders, YUCK.

I have sprayed it, to kill the creepy crawlies, and will work on it later tonight.

I have not forgotten, but its worse than a S2 wiring nest at the moment.

Hang in there, have a beer or 3 or 4, I will return soon.

 

Done and attached.

 

I think the original question might have been solved and I know you are talking about SII cars but today I discovered that SIII cars have two thermal breakers, one for the right front window and one for the rest. My car suddenly had the drivers window (left front) OK and the rest not working. Not sure if the schematic is right-hand drive or for both.

On Monday I'll check these fuses or thermal breakers and I think that will solve my problem. Do the SII cars have these thermal breakers?

 

One breaker is for both RH windows and the other is for both LH windows plus the sunroof.

If any single window is working you can conclude that A) the relay is OK and B) at least one of the breakers is OK...in your case the breaker for the LH windows.

You probably just have dirty switches but you could swap breakers and see if the RH windows comes to life. But that still leaves the LH rear in question

Cheers
DD

 

Yep, Doug, you are right. Fiddled with the breakers and got the right hand side working. Left rear still inoperable. Here is the good news: I am finishing up my dashboard wood replacement and next on the list are the ski slope and the door cards. So I have to dig into where the switch and the window motor are soon anyway so I should find the problem.

BTW, while I have the door cards off I'll be checking the back side of the dealer installed side bumper strips to see if they are riveted or screwed on and, if not will be removing them.

Jeff

 

Thanks for all the advice. I have two new switches arriving in the next few days, and will dig into the console again newly armed.
The car went off for an alignment and a further investigation why it wants to "hunt" running down the road. She had new tie rod ends and one lower ball joint replaced before delivery, and subsequently found the rack mount bolts hadn't been tightened. I know it's 40+ years and 100K old, but I don't remember the last one I owned 20 years ago being this loose. Onward and upward! Once more into the breech!

 

Goodo on the switches, dont forget the beer.

Why are we not surprised at loose bolts etc, Wombat previous caretakers, keep these Forums alive, mostly.

All fun, what else would we do?????

 

Just think.
When y'all get all those little Annoyances resolved,
the Only thing you'll have to entertain yourselves is to DRIVE THE WHEELS OFF!
What Possible fun would that be???
(teehee)
(';')

 

Pom: In our colonial days it was the red coats vs the blue coats!!

Elinor: I've become addicted to my "smart" VIZIO TV. You tube stuff. Lotsa of DIY. You have a counterpart. Emily Williams-Reeves. A hands get greasy gal. A Texas gal. She and her husband take on a lot of interesting critters. No Jaguars yet. Latest, a Jeep Wagoneer repowered by a big Cummins !!!!

Minor fix to mine. Replaced the burnt out brake light. EZZZZZY. Used for errands. Purred...

Hissy fir cause found and fixed, Lousy coil wire !!

Yup, I got quite skilled at cleaning the window switches. Best lesson: Work over a pan. Teeny parts get lsot easily!!!

 

Can anyone tell me what the purose of the extra on side switch is ?

The blue one. Two male tabs, one Insulated . Two female wire terminals disconnected.