Hi everyone !
I just changed ALL the coolant pressure hoses, the heater control valve ( which leaked new...grrrr that will be another post ) plus all new belts. The water pump began leaking around the shaft right afterwards most likely from setting for almost 20 years plus the removal of a aftermarket air pump changing the pull direction on the seal and bearing which was maybe making a faint grinding noise anyway.

"While I was there" changing the water pump and installing new clutch & fan, famous pattern on an old Jag ! I decided to pull the camshaft covers for repaint, install guide hold down kit, check tappet gap and timing chain tension / condition ( only 38000 miles but was sitting ). Well turns out everything looked really nice inside but the top chain seemed too loose, most likely causing the extra noise I could hear. All the guides are still tight but will install the hold downs just in case.

Now to my questions about adjusting the tappets:

Intake side
#6 was .011, and #3 was .019 all the rest are .012 with one .013
Plan to swap size up on #6 to make it .012, but is the odd one out .019 a concern as to why it's different ? The compression tested at 150 lbs on all cylinders and plan to do a leak down tomorrow just to make sure it's not a chunk of something on the valve seat ( can't run it obviously right now to do a regular check again ). Just don't want to adjust the shims to fix it then it jump back tight and cause problems.

Exhaust side
#6 was .012 #5 to #2 was .015 and #1 was .014
Read that the exhaust valves can burn if too tight ? Should I try for .012 on them or maybe .013 ?
Gonna order a few extra shims tomorrow so I have some options.

I have already miked / recorded all the shims and tappet thicknesses ( all .223 in center ) and none show any measurable wear. Some of the shims with readable stamps don't quite match their book specs, so I can see why it can be trial and error when adjusting ! Most had the stamps towards the tappets but a few had it towards the valve stem which polished it away ( but no measurable thickness wear using .000 mike ).

Finally slightly confused by the manual: with crank stopped at #6 @ TDC and cams disconnected, can one camshaft at a time be installed and rotated by itself to check the tappet clearances with out risking a valve hitting the pistons ? Understand valves hitting each other but not gonna pull the head off just to measure how far the valves come down !

Pictures to follow tomorrow I hope,
Cheers,
Brian

 

Make that 1985 not !985 ! I have used a few Bloody #$@ etc while working on it though.
Also it's a high compression German / Euro Emission B engine if it matters on the valve to piston question, since they are domed pistons but still should clear the valves the same right ?

Cheers again,
Brian

 

Brian.
my tappet holdowns were done years ago, so I have no clue.

I do know the repair was done in the exhaust side only.