Hi, I have a series 2 4.2ltr Daimler.

I have been topping up approx. 500ml every 2-3 weeks. Last Saturday I purchased a drip tray and at end of the day just saw a couple of small oil drops. On sunday I checked the fluids and topped up the coolant by the black reservoir( probally to the the bottom of the spout/ nozzle of the reservoir). I drove down the coast (2 1/2 hr drive ) and when I came back I parked over the drip tray. I checked 1/2 hr later and saw a couple of coolant drops (I have bright green coolant) but they werent big drops. It was on the side of the reservoir.

I have had the motor pressure tested and mechanic said the pressure was okay, but he didnt check the cooling system. The oil seems okay (not milky) and temp gauage sits on 1/3 most of the time -although it is coming into winter. I know the temp gauge works as it got up to half way when I was stuck in traffic last summer.

I am wondering what is an acceptable usuage of topping up of coolant, and what is the level do I top it up to? I maybe overfilling it or a have small leak some where.

 

Possibly overfilling, I was topping the expansion tank to the top when I first got my car and losing 500 ml every week or so.
It seems to like being around 1/2 full, I flush the cooling system once a year and no top ups in between. Except when the radiator gave out.

 

Thats what I have been doing filling close to top. I will fill 1/2 way up expansion tank (metal one) and keep an eye on it.

thanks Clarke.

 

It could be a cracked block (between the bores), and your head gasket is allowing coolant to escape into the cylinders from whence it passes out via the exhaust. After a run, leave the car overnight and then remove the pressure cap. There should be no residual pressure at all with a cold engine. If there is, it points to cylinder gases entering the coolant jacket. Ask your mechanic to check for combustion products in the coolant.

All 7L and 8L blocks are vulnerable to cracking between the bores, and this was only fixed with the usual Jaguar spatchcock in 1982 when the slotted blocks were introduced.

 

I`ll do that and check in the morning

Thanks

 

I did the same as Clarke, back in the dim dark ages.

Got sick of the guess work real fast.

Found an atmospheric bottle that sat nicely on the top face of the steel tank. Wandered the wrecking yards until I found what I wanted, about a 1ltr, Toyota rings a dim bell.Then using a Recovery Spec Cap, 13lb I think, problem solved. I could see the Green Brew in the header tank, meaning the pressure side was full. less stress all round.

 

Hi Grant (I like your idea) as you know the weather here has turned to s$$t but I suppose we need the rain.. I checked the reservoir and to my surprise it was to bottom of funnel and looked okay, also the cap at top of motor I just topped up 100ml. I was expecting to fill a lot more. There was no pressure when I took cap off. I have gone for 1/2hr drive with heater on and fingers crossed the drops were just overflow. I'll check in the morning. Thanks for input

 

I have a 77 XJC and the coolant expansion tank was thin tin. Pin holes in many places that spray coolant once under pressure. Should be visible on floor driver side inside front wheel.

 

Glad to hear there was no residual pressure on the cold engine. Looks like you've dodged a bullet !

 

This and also check that the cap for the expansion tap is in good order. If not the tank will empty out each time you drive.

 

As did Clarke and Grant, I had a car once that if I filled the tank to the "Suggested" level, it would puke green all over the parking lot after a hard run (I seldom make any other kind). At other times coolant just mysteriously disappeared. This all stopped when I finally got the hint and quit filling the overflow more than, as mentioned above, about half.

I allow Nix to find her level and leave it alone after that.
(';')

 

LnrB I think thats I need to do, and I havent got a name for it yet!!.
Well I checked both caps this morning and there was no suction when I took the radiator cap off, hoping as Fraser mentioned I dodged a bullet.
The was still fluid to the top of reservoir (not in the funel) and at top of the motor. I think I may have panicked (when I saw drops on the ground) and as could have just have been over filling it. I have replaced the top cap but will repalce the reservoir one as it looks not new..
Thanks for help again, I was starting to think the worse. These cars definatley have charactor..

 

And owning one is a Character Building experience.
(';')

 

An update since my last post.
I have been using the car reguarly every couple of days or so. The power seems all good but it does take a few minutes in the morning to warm up and settle (I assumed the roughness was related the cold, it seemed like it was missing a bit until warmed up). The temperature gauge has not got high and I have been using the heater every now and again.
I checked the oil and coolant this evening. I saw some discolouring on the dipstick and when I checked the coolant it needed around 3 litres, way more then prevously. I extracted some oil from the dipstick (about 200ml) and the example of the oil extracted is in the picture. I assume coolant is getting into oil somewhere, thinking buggered head gasket?

My previous mechanic (Janaury this year) said the compresision on all cylinders was all good and even (dont know the compression though). I have a different mechanic now (long story but he is Jaguar exeprienced) and will seek his advise tommorrow. I am wondering if the coolant leak is the reason it is rough when its cold?

Interesting I have gone through the service manual (it stopped being filled in10 yrs ago) and back in 1988 the engine had a full rebuild, new head liners, rings & pistons, timing chain , valves list goes on, previous owner spent nearly $7k on it. I think it has only done around 60k since the engine rebuild (total 160k).

 

when refilling the system, I remove the fill tank cap and idle the engine to warm it up, once warmed up I turn the Heater to AUTO and to maximum temp (85).

​​​​​​ As engine gets hotter, the thermostat opens and coolant flows filling up the system and emptying or lowering the fill tank volume. That is when I start adding coolant keeping my eye on the fill tank level.

When I am satisfied it is full, then I put the cap back on to pressurize the system.

the bottom line is that the Heater must be ON when refilling, even in summer. If you are refilling with the Heater OFF, there is the problem, the system is not full.

 

When you discovered the coolant was about 3qt low, did you check the oil level? If you did, was it over-full? Definite sign of internal coolant leak, but if oil level was still normal, maybe the system has been low for some time, as Jose is suggesting. Regardless, the oil in your picture is not the color of normal used oil (blackish) or clean oil. Unscrew the oil drain plug until it's just about ready to come out and see if any coolant drips out before oil drips out. The old adage that oil and water don't mix is true and water is heavier than oil. But, they will emulsify if thrashed around long enough, as inside an engine. Something is getting in your oil.

Dave

 

I havent been refilling the way Jose mentioned.
I did check the oil yesturday and it was a bit fuller than normal (showing very full, was half way previous check). I thought the oil colour was not right, it was darker a couple of weeks ago.
This evening I will open the drain plug as you suggest Dave and check for coolant , and refill the coolant properly with Jose method (& change oil) and see what happens.
I am wondering if something like "KSeal" may help if the leak is small?
thanks

 

If your oil was "a bit fuller than normal" and "the color isn't right, was darker a couple weeks ago," that's a sure indication you have coolant in the oil. (Oil gets Darker with age and miles, not lighter.)

If you confirm this is the case by draining as mentioned, adding a Cooling System Sealant isn't going to fix it. Might seem to slow down progress for a while, but if one considers how this stuff works, by clogging up small water passages and thus maybe your leak for a time, then eventually you'll have clogged (at least partially) radiator and heater core, not to mention any small coolant passages in the head leading to eventual overheating. (I can tell you how I know this and what it cost me to fix it right.)

I could certainly be wrong about this, for you sake I hope I am. If so, someone with more correct information will doubtless jump in to correct me.
(';')

 

You are losing coolant into the crankcase, that's a problem. "Sealants" added to the cooling system won't solve any kind of problem, they will just make the inevitable repair job nastier and probably more extensive.

Have your new mechanic pressure check the cylinders and look for bubbles in radiator filler neck. I would say that your roughness after startup is very likely from coolant getting into the cylinder(s) over night. Pull the spark plugs before you start the engine in the morning and look at them (let it set for a couple of days if you can), crank the engine with the plugs out and see if you see any kind of liquid/coolant (green?) coming out of any of the plug holes. This would be a severe case, but adding 3qts of coolant and seeing the oil level rise from half way between full/add to "very full" (over full I assume) indicates quite a leak. Best to just bite the bullet and fix it.

Dave

 

no sealants, Jaguar stopped recommending sealant due to cooling systems getting clogged.

find the leak and fix it.

It sounds like it leaks when engine is under load, i.e. on the road in gear, accelerating and deccelerating.

raise the car on a lift after driving it for 1 hour and with engine running and hot, look at the water pump weep hole with a bright light. The weep hole is near the bottom and center of the water pump hub. It weeps on purpose when a water pump is going bad.





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