it is somehow common knowledge that a bad alternator will kill a good battery, so mechanics recommend replacing the battery if the alternator died.

don't know if that is the case with your battery but is a possibility. You can try to get the battery replaced under warranty or at least get an adjustment, but I would make sure your alternator is at 100% before you put another battery in.

 

If I do replace the battery on the xj6 series 3, any recommendation on cranking amps or type of battery?

 

it depends the kind of use you are putting the car through.

if it's for a daily or monthly driver when you're done fixing all the issues, then get an Interstate battery, I think it is about the best battery you can get nowadays for a daily or monthly driver. Best price i've found is at Firestone, they have coupons in their website or specials, they will get you the right cranking power for the car when you go to buy it.

Same if you're going to keep it stored, then just buy a battery maintainer and keep it charged at 100%, those things cost little to run and they keep the battery from sulfating, something that happens when the batteries sit without getting charged. Sulfating kills the battery.

get the alternator issue fixed first, best to replace it with another one period, it's a pain to replace but if you get a good alternator, should last you around 10 years. A battery lasts under 5 years. Jaguars like a lot of electrical juice, so the alternator and the battery should be hot out of the oven always.

you could check with David at Everyday XJ and get another good used XJ-6 alternator if you can't afford a new one right away. And David can confirm where each wire goes. Make sure the alternator is correctly connected next time. Get the wiring right.

 

My theory is shop for the most CCA's and physical size that will fit the space.


Almost all USA batteries are made by the same company!! Johnson Controls. Different spec's for different badges, though.


Weight is a big concern. The heavier, the better. More lead in the plates!!!


The yellow top Optima that was in my car for a few years was a beast to lift in and out. It's Autozone Durlast replacement not so much!!!


But, both crank the LT1 just fine.


Carl

 

Thanks for the responses. Ive heard jags require a good amount of power when starting up and running. I know you said to get a interstate battery, any tips on the cranking amps and CCA i should look for with a 82 xj6 series 3?

 

like Carl said, the biggest and most powerful one you can fit in the space available and the one that has the properly located poles, and the correct type of poles.

My '84 has the poles on the front side.

but don't run to get a new battery without resolving your alternator issue, otherwise you will kill the new battery too.

 

Ok thanks, i also forgot to mention that when i turn on my defrost at night time, the dash lights will flicker one time but return to the normal brightness. Ive been driving with this problem for a couple weeks now so i know the alternator is at least working. The question is whether the alternator is giving a poor charge, i have some sort of minor drain somewhere, or the battery has a bad cell. The battery was from my brothers mazda 6 and we put it in the jag because he rear ended someone doing 25 mph. But looking at the battery it looks fine just not sure about internally. The first problem was a overcharging alternator we got that replaced with the volt regulator. Then the light came on about a couple weeks after. Thanks Jose

 

who did the voltage regulator replacement?

 

A certifies BBB shop called Majestic Automotive in Toledo, Ohio

 

when you took the car, was the alternator light coming ON ?

 

No, there were no lights on when i took in the shop. Just noticed the volts would climb to the red zone when i would accelerate. Another thing to add is that i notice in the morning the light looks as if it is not on. But every other drive on after the light stays on but dim. I just drove home and in the morning the car puts out 14 volts on the meter. But later drives like the tonight the volts are only at 13 sometimes a hair up but not 14. The battery light illuminates not as bright as it fully could be. The 14 volts first drive then 13 the rest of the drives happen every day. Im going to get another test tomorrow, does this sound like the alternator is not generating enough charge but only a small minor case?

 

by "Alternator Light", I am referring to the RED WARNING LIGHT WITH A BATTERY SYMBOL located between the speedo and the tachometer,

is that the light that comes on in your car ?

if yes, the problem is the Alternator, maybe they put the wrong Voltage Regulator, maybe the Alternator had something else that wasn't fixed, but the bottom line, it is the Alternator giving you a WARNING.

a secondary problem is that you most likely have an incorrect or faulty BATTERY installed, as you said it was used from a Mazda.

 

Two issues here:


1. Is the Mazda battery too puny for all the load that you have available. Lights, defrost, windows, heated rear screen, etc. Do some research and get the Id of the battery and it's spec's.


2. You only have a vague indication of what the alternator is doing or not doing.


Do my VOM-patch cord test. If you haven't read other posts by me on it, let me know and I'll describe it.


In past years, cars had ammeters. some fairly accurate. Before the dampen days to avoid scaring drivers!!! Another story in itself. But, one could read then generator output in amps. Usually in the 30's. max.


Carl

 

Here is a very good alternative to lead.
Lithium starting battery lightweight racing

 

Many $$$$$'s you think????


And, hat in confined spaces. TESLA and late Boeing fires????


But, definitely the path too the future.


Carl

 

I just went to autozone after getting another battery and alternator test. The charging system passed with my battery being at 100%. The battery test did not pass though and said needs to be replaced. My question is though I thought the dash battery light was for the alternator? Can a bad volt regulator cause the light to come on and cause a bad reading to the battery when tested? Or am I just thinking too much into it and its probably the battery

 

Interstate battery is smaller in size compared to the space where the battery sits not by much though

 

Well I said screw it and got a new battery to see how that would work. Battery light still dims. I turned on the defroster, headlights, radio, turn signal, and windshield wipers while the car was running, volts at the battery were 14. Does this seem high for all those accessories on?