I've owned my car since May and up to a late summer it started good. Now the engine will crank but not start (it actually run for a brief few seconds but at a feeble idle before it stalls). After about 4/5 crankings lasting a few seconds I can get the engine started with pumping the gas pedal while cranking. Once the car is started it runs fine and will start easily. So far I switched out the cold start relay, fuel pump and fuel pressure regulator with no change. I haven't changed the check valve by the fuel filter yet. Assuming that's not it, which I doubt, what else could be going on? Thanks, Ren

 

Ren:

1. Pumping ghe gas pedal on these cars has no effect. In older cars that used carburators, it did pump in extra fuel to start a cold engine.
i2. My GUESS is the cod start injector. Defective or not getting energized.

 

The cold start injector, as Carl mentioned, is worth looking at. I suspect that it's cold enough in Detroit these days for the CSI to really make a difference. In mild conditions the CSI can be dead and you may not even notice.

The injector can be removed but left connected to the supply hose for testing. Have a helper crank the engine while you watch for the spray of gas....which is actually rather substantial but lasts only for a few moments. And the circuit will 'time out' after a couple start attempts so the test must be made on a stone cold engine. Order a new CSI gasket ahead of time or be prepared to make a new one. They often can't be saved.

Note that the CSI operates only while the starter is engaged. Thus, is can be responsible for a cold starting problem but not a cold running problem.

The CTS...Coolant Temp Sensor...plays a major role in cold fueling; roughly like a choke on an old carbureted engine. The CTS can be tested (let us know if you want to) or replaced for $20 and 5 minutes of time. As guesswork goes, that's rather painless.

Easy test: put the gearshift in "D" and turn the key to start for a few seconds. This will operate the fuel pump and pressurize the fuel rail. Now put the gearshift into "P" and start the engine. Any change?

Cheers
DD

 

Doug: I found an old thread that instructed the following: put in "D" / turn key to the start position and hold for 5 seconds / repeat this cycle a few times / put in "P" and try to start the car. This worked great for me so far for two days with 20+ successful cold start attempts. The engine fires up after a 3-5 second crank. My long term plan is to replace all running injectors/hoses and the cold start injector. Thanks for your help. Ren

 

Ren

Probably know this but this pressurizes the fuel rail and I usually repeat that procedure 2-3 times for about a count of 5 if I have not started the car in about a day or so.

If I don't takes a bunch of cranking to start. The cold start valve is not affected by this procedure rather just dumps fuel into intake when cold to aid start

So new CSV might also help. I think the rail *might* lose pressure because of aging check valve that is in trunk by fuel filt. The site gurus can comment and of course correct anything I said abive as needed

Randy

 

Thanks. Yup, add the check valve to the " I will eventually replace it list" At least I have a work around to get it to reliably start in the cold Michigan winters because I intend to use my xj all year around. Ren