XJ6 & XJ12 Series I, II & III 1968-1992
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How to remove dash components

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Old 02-17-2015, 12:09 AM
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Default How to remove dash components

My odometer doesn't work in my xj6 series 3 and the speedometer acts up. In the manual it sais to rotate the body of the instrument at a angle and it should come out. I cant get mine to budge. Any tips?
 
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Old 02-17-2015, 12:23 AM
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You have to push down on the speedo (or tach) quite firmly, and turn simultaneously. I always forget which way to turn. Jose or others will chime in

Between the tach in speedo is the black plastic cover for the bank of warning lights. Removing the cover.....you can pull it off with your fingernails....gives you a bit more room to get your fingers on the speedo

Cheers
DD
 
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Old 02-17-2015, 01:24 AM
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Besides Doug's advice, I find it helpful to wear disposal non-slip gloves while pushing in Quite Aggressively and turning them to the Left.

It's about 1/8 of a turn and it pops right out.
(';')
 
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Old 02-17-2015, 02:18 AM
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I hope this will help you.
 
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Old 02-17-2015, 05:11 AM
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I'm guessing the answer is yes, but is the method they same for all the gauges? Ive got a fuel gauge that maxes out at 3/4 full even when full. Happens on both tanks so probably the gauge or poor wiring I'm thinking.
 
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Old 02-17-2015, 07:21 AM
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Noop It's not the same ;-)
And I hope that this will help you :-)
 
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Old 02-17-2015, 07:55 AM
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thanks Doug,

first you push the speedo or tachometer towards the front of the car, (you can feel a "springy feeling" if you push and release the gauge),

then you turn the gauge counterclockwise, as if to loosen a screw?, not a lot of turning is needed, practice makes perfect, just don't push on the glass, only on the metal frame edge of the gauge. once you have it turned about 30 degrees, you let go and the gauge sort of pops out by itself.

this only works for the speedo and tachometer, the other small gauges are held by "C" brackets and nuts from the rear.

Before you disconnect any wire from any of the gauges, make sure you make a drawing and notate where every wire goes.
 
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Old 02-17-2015, 09:32 AM
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Originally Posted by yarpos
I[...]Ive got a fuel gauge that maxes out at 3/4 full even when full. Happens on both tanks so probably the gauge or poor wiring I'm thinking.
Mine act the same, Steve, the Only exception being when I truly get both tanks FULL!

The vapor recovery system at most stations here shuts the pumps off too early, and once they're shut off they won't start again.

I only discovered this while on a club cruise last Summer and gassed up at a Chevron station in Santa Rosa, where the pump ran So SLLLOOOWWW that the tank was well and truly full when it shut off. In fact, one tank is missing the flapper and I could actually see gas!

If I try Really hard I can run the nozzle slow enough so it doesn't burp back and stop the pump, but I'm not successful very often.
(';')
 
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Old 02-17-2015, 10:04 AM
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does the above procedure for speedo/tach removal apply to 1977 series II?


thanks geneo
 
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Old 02-17-2015, 11:56 AM
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Originally Posted by geneo
does the above procedure for speedo/tach removal apply to 1977 series II?

thanks geneo
Yes.
(';')
 
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Old 02-17-2015, 12:44 PM
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it should, it is the same also in my 1965 S type
 
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Old 02-17-2015, 10:27 PM
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Originally Posted by S.Bunzel
Noop It's not the same ;-)
And I hope that this will help you :-)
just wishful thinking I my part then :-)
 
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Old 02-17-2015, 10:41 PM
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Originally Posted by LnrB
Mine act the same, Steve, the Only exception being when I truly get both tanks FULL!

The vapor recovery system at most stations here shuts the pumps off too early, and once they're shut off they won't start again.

I only discovered this while on a club cruise last Summer and gassed up at a Chevron station in Santa Rosa, where the pump ran So SLLLOOOWWW that the tank was well and truly full when it shut off. In fact, one tank is missing the flapper and I could actually see gas!

If I try Really hard I can run the nozzle slow enough so it doesn't burp back and stop the pump, but I'm not successful very often.
(';')
Thanks for that, I might try a slow fill before I start yanking things out. Early in the piece I distrusted the gauges and just changed tanks and filled up after 250km on a tank. I rarely put in more than 40ltrs and they are 45.

Cheers
 
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Old 02-18-2015, 02:58 AM
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Originally Posted by yarpos
Thanks for that, I might try a slow fill before I start yanking things out. Early in the piece I distrusted the gauges and just changed tanks and filled up after 250km on a tank. I rarely put in more than 40ltrs and they are 45.

Cheers
Only one of my tanks has a functional gauge sending unit so until I discovered I could drive 400 miles on a load of fuel I used to do the same!

But one day I decided 'this is stupid', put a 5 gallon can of gas in the trunk/boot and thought I would drive until it ran out of gas; at which point I would pour in the reserve, make it to the nearest station, fill up and come home.

I gave up at 410 miles (??km) at which time I found myself at a station Very near home so I put 12.3 gallons (??L) in one tank (stated capacity 12 gallons US for each tank) and 10.8 gallons (??L) in the other. The gauge had been firmly parked on "E" and hadn't wavered for over a hundred miles by that point!

THAT'S when I stopped trusting the gauge. When I've gone 300 miles I start looking for a gas/petrol station. I have got as good as 18mpg but I don't count on more than about 17MPG and calculate for 15 because it's easier.
(';')
 
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Old 02-18-2015, 11:21 AM
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Hehe!!


So far my tanks and the gauges seem right on. I've not measured fuel consumption in decades. I figure, it is what it is. I usually "fill" up on reading at about 1/4 on each tank.


Then, just buy 50 or 60 bucks worth!!! works fine so far.


I do the same for the Jeep. Gas mileage isn't it's strong suite!!! but, it's gadgety trip computer can report it in real time. Kinda fun. Light throttle can yield some amzoing numbers. And the other way uphill with a lot of throttle teensy numbers!!!


Yeah, I've had the speedo and tach out. PUSH and twist CCW. My fingers are not what they once were. And/or mine are a tight fit. It took my son's strong fingers to do it.


Jose, remember, Left handed threads can mess up a day......


Carl
 
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Old 02-18-2015, 11:33 AM
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Carl,
with the cruise set to 73 mph, (equivalent to 71 mph), I can get 525 MILES (miles, not kilometers), out of my two tanks before I need to think about refueling.

so I can get to Florida from Tennessee (an 800 mile trip), on two fillups and then have a couple days worth of gas leftover when I get there. Can't complain considering it is an old engine, old technology, 3-speed transmission, etc.

But the S type, being carburetted, only gives me 325 miles per fillup, of course I also drive it a lot harder than the XJ, it's easy to want to go 85-90 mph in that car.

In the XJ, I believe grounding the O2 sensor, fresh oil & filter, and the K & N air filter have helped to stretch the mileage by about 60 miles, (30 per tank).

Otherwise nobody said these cars are "economical". They are "hobby cars", and that means they are "money pits".
 
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Old 02-18-2015, 12:15 PM
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Jose,
I'm encouraged by your S-type's mileage. Mine is a carbed engine but it should still get better than 18mpg, and require sedate driving (not gonna happen) and a tail wind to achieve that.

I'll quote you as the Experienced Authority on the subject of 'These are not economy cars but hobby cars, thus money pits,' which we knew going in but I think we've already bought the car over again and we're not through yet.
(';')
 
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Old 02-18-2015, 01:40 PM
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Originally Posted by LnrB
Jose,
I'm encouraged by your S-type's mileage. Mine is a carbed engine but it should still get better than 18mpg, and require sedate driving (not gonna happen) and a tail wind to achieve that. I'll quote you as the Experienced Authority on the subject of 'These are not economy cars but hobby cars, thus money pits,' which we knew going in but I think we've already bought the car over again and we're not through yet. (';')
Lnrb, you do have a 4.2 liter engine in your XJ, correct ? That's why. The 4.2 likes to drink.

my S type has a 3.8 liter engine, 9:1 compression, which is or was supposed to be, a little hotter engine than the lower compression ratios.

I think 325 miles from the two tanks (total of 17 gallons) is miserable mileage, I can get to 345 if I slow down, but then the primitive 3-gear DG-250 auto transmission does not help it either, though the 3rd gear is pretty high and yet the engine runs at 2,900 rpm at 80 mph. I need a 4th and a 5th gear to improve the mileage and relax the engine rpm's. That's my plan, maybe a XJ-40 or later tranny if I can find the bell housing adapter.
 
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Old 02-18-2015, 02:10 PM
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Jose:


Naah. it is comparing old tech to ancient tech.


1. Elinor's NIX as been repowered to a full 5.7 CI carb'd engine, but probably a three speed GM trans and the older Jag rear at around 3.5 or so. so, her 18 is about to be expected from that combination. Especialy with her view on throttle position.


2. Although the 3.8 in your car is quite peppy, it clearly has a rear ration of about 3.5 or perhaps more. thusly 80 at 2900. Does the "little" six have the torque to pull an added 4th or even 5th?


3. I fear it will be along search for an adapter to XJ40 or later.


4. 3.8 to GM 700r, a four speed. Yup, but at a price. Like all else.


5. I think those slick little S's scream for a stick shift!!


6. In about 1964, we lived in Mission Hills, Ca. Part of greater LA actually. The family across the street were racers. Dad in a drag boat. Son had a black S. Seemed to delight in pulling the engine, fooling with it and then "testing" it. hrough the gears, screaming out the pipes.


7. Oddly, the prior owner of the house we bought had two older Mark cars. Supposedly, he wrecked one, and saved the DOHC. He left it in the garage. I sold it off. Cheap. Good, bad or? It did turn over, so that is something.


8. He also left a gas filler cap. Slick. I used it on the tank to my Austin dune buggy.


9. My Jeep is powered by an "updated" OHV six of 4.0 litres. Now cross flow head or DOHC, but competent. Can it match the 4.2 jaguar's purported 175 HP. Possibly not.
But, it is marvelously tuned as to the torque curve. Max torque in the circa 2000 rpm area. rear ratio a ltle ver 3.0. It can pull OD decently.


10. The Lump with OD and 2.88 ratio loafs at 75 and 80!!


Carl


,
 
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