I'm going to pull the relay and test it. Not sure how to do it, but worry about that later. Getting it out is a bear. The rearward nut comes off easy enough, but the forward one is tucked behind some valve or something and can't get a ratchet head in. So it's 1/3 of turn at a time with my 3/8 spanner/wrench. It's murder on my old hands. I could try to test it in the car, but I think if something is going on with it, I will need to try to clean it. I see just a tiny bit of green corrosion on one of the connectors. SO maybe it just needs a cleaning.

 

muttony, I sent you a PM.

 

Thanks Sanchez. I read it just now.... Droopy sad face... Sanchez just learned to live with it....

Oh well,

I just finished fishing the Relay out and I tested it with an old (still functional) 12V backup battery from my FIOS box. They changed it and left me with the battery. Still works.

Anyway. Energy applied and the relay clicks away on all the four. The relay insides look beautifully clean. I thought I'd seen some tiny corrosion, but it isn't. I'll just clean the connectors a bit anyway put it back in. Relay as a problem is ruled out.

Beginning to think it might be the resistor.

 

When we were negotiating to buy Nix, the then owner told me quite firmly,"Put the switch on AUTO and leave it there!"
I have done that (except for once when the dial broke, requiring a replacement from David Bodger) and everything seems to work just fine.
(';')

 

I can't stand to have something that was designed to work, not work..... Drives me to distraction.

Now I know

(1)Relay is good
(2) Fuses are good
(3) Switches are good - ( could b wrong here- I'm deducing that based on the behavior of the flaps when the mode switch is changed)
(4) That leaves resistor. -> This makes some sense because the only relay clicking when the mode selector is moved is the OFF and Defrost.

 

Actually, I just haven't gotten around to it. My front seats are out of the car, so now I have ample room to work. I am also going to pull the part of the console where the trip computer and the AC controls are to install a Jensen VX7014 which was given to me by one of my sons last Christmas. It will go where the trip computer is so some modification will be done to install it. I will kill 2 birds with one stone here. I have the AC switch and Temperature Control Switch which I bought from David Boger a while back.

This unit has all the bells and whistles. Stereo, GPS, Phone interface, Navigation etc. Apple CarPlay compatibility allows a Lightning™-to-USB connection to provide access to select apps on newer iPhones. Once connected, the receiver shows large icons for functions such as Maps, Phone, Messages, Music, Now Playing, and Podcasts. Several streaming apps — including Pandora® — work within the Apple CarPlay interface as well. Drivers can access these functions by touch or through Siri® voice control.

 

I wanted one of those. Please do a writeup of how you modify what to put that in. There's not enough room for the depth of that unit where the Trip Computer is, so I will be interested to see your solution.

I've been driving mine around and this problem vexes me. I have been driving around and there is no blower at all. But when I turn the mode selector it is definitely moving the flaps. If I turn the mode selector to "OFF" there is no Flow at all. However, if I turn it to Low, Auto, High or Defrost HOT air comes out. Doesn't matter what I do with the temp selector, it just comes out HOT. Very HOT matter of fact. And when I say air comes out, it is more like just air passing rather than being blown. It doesn't come out strongly and I cannot hear a fan, so I think the fans are not working.

It might be the switches after all, but I don't know.

@Doug. Any ideas?

 

Same here. If the blower motor does not turn on and I drive the car all I get is HOT air. I believe that if the system does not turn on, the temp switch becomes useless.
D Did you try jumping the open brown wires with the grey connectors to see if the blower motors turn on?
What I do is play with the switch - ON-OFF, ON- OFF a few times and the blower motors turn on

 

As for the radio, I know there is not enough space. When I remove the console, I will see what's behind there that can be modified. If it is not feasible, I may use a swivel mount. It does not have to be within arm's length because every feature can be accessed via the remote control or via Siri.

 

I tried to jump them like that and nothing. I got it to come back on once by doing the on-off thing. I was just screwing around with it and it worked. But it hasn't worked since it turned off again.

I'm beginning to think it is those mode selector microswitches. I wondering if the opening of the flaps I keep hearing is vacuum rather than electric related. I need to watch the servos when I turn the selector. I hear the flaps working but I don't hear anything motorized from the servo.

On the radio... I believe it is the Delanair ducting or heater core back there. I've seen videos of people who've put the pop-up screen in a custom "socket" where the armrest is IIRC and also in the bottom where the radio normally goes. Have to make sure to retract it before putting the car in Park, but it works.

 

Intermittent means poor electrical connections. I would have David at everydayxj.com send a replacement selector switch and pop it in. David's parts are very inexpensive way to test something like that. Swap it out and if it acts exactly like it did before you move on the the next item.

Not sure I followed exactly what you said but the servo does two things. It has cams that open pneumatic valves to move the dampers but it also has some electrical switches that cams activate. Could be one of those switches.

They say as you get older you need mental puzzles to keep you sharp. We have the Delanaire system.