checking the lighting set up on 74 Xj6,
replacing the deceased Hella relay with new one but new one employs different numbers, is there a easy straight translation.

old one has 5-pins as 56a, 56, 56b, 31b, 81a
with (I think) 56a being white/blue twin wires, 56 being twin blue wire, 56b being twin blue/red wires and 31b and 81b not so sure of but either brown or blue/black wires.

new one has terminals of its 5-pins given as 2, 6+, 1, 5, 3

tried a few variations and not immediately getting results.

 

A part number/ID number for the new relay would help work it out. Also does the new relay have a circuit diagram printed on it or the packaging?

Try to resist random connection, there is at least one option that will fry your relays coil when you go to test high beam.

Basic functions of the colours:

Blue = +12v from your headlight rotary dash switch
Blue/Red = low beam lights
Blue/White = high beam lights
Brown = +12V permanent
Blue/Black = earth from the dip switch/flasher

 

Hey Steve, good to see a fellow e24 and jag owner! You have good taste in cars!

 

Hi Slo

Seems you are one of the few who think so, apart from me is. A lot of people seem to admire one car and look at the other and say something like "what do you have that one for?" or "are you getting rid of that one?"

The E24 is a great thing to drive and seems to be rewarding me for doing a heap of preventative maintenance up front. Gives me no trouble. Done it now havent I? :-)

 

12V 5 Pin On/Off Latching Micro Relay - 20A - PART NO: 3064L

can get it to do the job in off-line tests with small battery and test light but not when connected to the car system.

 

Hi Aden

That relay wont do what you need. It latches but it is an on off relay, not a changeover relay, and has no high beam flashing function.

The relays that will suit are: DNI0127, LR35, BWD R3018, JD142C-12V and VWC-111-941-583

I did a thread on this topic a week or so ago , it may contain useful info for you.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-relay-162296/

 

sigh, even asked the auto electrician I got it from and gave him the original part number. waste of time, eh/

 

Those generic relay numbers I provided will be more meaningful to an auto electrician, if you want to try again.

 

Yea, I wouldn't have made that statement!
As for those that don't get the e24, some people don't get music either... I had a guy at a swap me tell me "those cars aren't worth anything" I said "neither is your opinion". What a *****...

 

The full description of those idiots adds "with ears"!!!

 

how late were latching relays of the type I am after used in Jags or Daimlers? 1992 or later?
what other major car brands have them?

 

Cant help with the first question, or if other brands ever used the big silver can relay,

I know that one of the most common uses of the generic relays I listed is in early VWs, and also sun roofs controls in some US cars (the latter not much use if you are thinking of wreckers)

 

Finally replaced my latching change over relay for the head lights, got a second hand one for $15. Prior to installing it I had already noticed some oddities with the lights when power via other relays.
Thew new relay has some odd wiring left dangling from the Series2 car it had been cut from. pin56 had the main blue cable and the blue/red ones applied to it, the blue/white where on 56b (i think) and the other 56a (or b if it was then other way around then a) was unused.
Having recently posted about the little blue Dubilier diode for reducing radio interference I was bemused to find yet another of these little units attached between the 31 and 81 pins or the blue/black trigger wire and the brown battery cable. Any idea why someone might have done this? same reason as the one in dash, to limit radio interference from light? or as a diode.?
I at first connected the relay as per how it had been on my car originally with the previous relay and then when that didn't work I set it up according to the unusal wiring on the second hand relay I had brought.
Main issue I am having now is that while the latching dip stick set up works its not perfect. on low beam both head lights are on low beam all fine. When changed over to high beam the passenger side head lamp is on high beam while the driver side one remains on low beam and the 2 fog lights come on at about 25% of their full 'fog light on' power?? some wiring issue here, but where should I start to look for the problem.
Also I should note that the new relay had another odd wire, connected to the blue/white wires into either pin 56a or 56b was a thin white/blue wire similar to one that appears near the starter relay but is not used on the starter relay at all.

 

The wiring around pin 56 is the basic headlight changeover function.

56 = power in = blue
56a = high beam = blue /white
56b = low beam = blue/red

As per the answer LnR posted in the other thread that Dublier diode is not a diode its a capacitor. Its there to limit arcing at the relay contacts, otherwise they get fried over time.

High beam being out on one side could be as simple as a fuse. The high beams are fused separately left and right.

Fog lights on but low power again could be corroded/dirty fuse connections or poor earth connections or both. Start with checking (take them out and measure, dont just look) all the fuses in the headlight fuse panel on the inner guard, clean and tighten all the fuse holders. I did all the bullet connectors under the panel as well when I did mine, up to you how far you want to go.

 

defective fuse, showed as good when removed to be tested but when test back in the holder socket it was broken.

off hand what are the recommended fuse values for the low and high beams, as the fuses I have all seem to be different.

 

S57 Bible says low beam 20A (fuses 2 and 4) high beam 35A (fuses 3 and 5)

you seem to be at serious risk of making progress :-)

 

I expect fully to have this car on a road by 2073.

 

Knowing I came my a really clear chart on the web explaining all the Lucas designations of 10A 25A and 50A etc in terms of actual amp, did i see it on this forum some place?
anyone know?

 

Dont know about anything Lucas specific. The septics have (or did have?) a different way of rating fuses. UK and related countries like ours rate the fuse at the current it will blow at. US rates fuses at a max current they can handle for a specified period without blowing.

Heres a page on the topic, not sure it is what you are talking about.

http://www.groups.tr-register.co.uk/...USA%20BUSS.pdf

 

I just previously figured Lucas was difficult calling his 17amp fuses 35A but now figure from all said that such continuous fuses operate between 17amps and 35amps but blow at over 35amps, hence 35A. or Lucas was just difficult.