Okay, I am brand new to Jaguars and I am on a learning curve concerning their quirks and needs, so please be gentle if I am off the mark on my inputs.
I have been on the site for a couple of days and I think it is one of the most informative forums out there for Jags. I am not new to motorized transportation.
Being a gearhead and always looking for more power, I have worked on the mundane grocery getter Excursion to the tire scorching big block V8 and just about every variation of motor out there including motorcycles.
I am currently involved in building a 4x4 with a turbo'ed Ford 300 straight 6 with a blow-thru 4 barrel carb on a Clifford Research intake and long tube header with a T25 flange welded on for the Garrett turbo. I am porting the head, then tuning the motor and fuel system once it goes back together. So, I am not clueless by any means, just new to these cars.

I do love the power this car makes for sure. I have some ideas and possibilities of things that will help from my previous experience with other vehicles.

1. Fuel System:

If your pump is out or going out, get a Wahlbro 190 or 255 HP. They are no more expensive than the stock replacement. They will provide excellent long life and leave you room for more mods down the line.
Install a fuel filter prior to the fuel pump. I have used two in most of my cars I have built, especially the turbo cars and bikes. By two I mean one larger coming off of a "T" or "Y" fitting out of the tank going to the pump as the main filter and tying in a smaller one off the "T" or "Y" fitting to ensure adequate fuel flow to the fuel pump under a load.
I already know these tanks are prone to rust a great deal inside, so this is an excellent safety net to prolong fuel pump life and making it home with a dirty main filter. As rusty as the tank supposedly get, two large ones may be a better option. Maybe run one on each side of the switchover valve, that may be even better?

I have read everyone using "fuel injector cleaner". Well what brand do you use? Lucas? Lucas Fuel injector cleaner/conditioner is crap in my book. Their other products, such as transmission and oil additives are excellent. I live and breath by them for doing their job, but the fuel system conditioner stuff is not that good. I prefer Berrymans B12 Chemtool or Seafoam. The regular Berrymans is about $4 a can, the Seafoam is $9, but perform the same. This stuff has cured a myriad of fuel system problems from pump pressure being low due to sluggish pump operation, stuck/sticking injectors and fuel pressure regulators that are varnished/sludged or just plain old dirty. Perfect for bringing an old Jaguars fuel system back to life. When I bought my XJ6, I ran a can of Berrymans in each of my tanks and topped off with 93 octane. It gets better and more powerful every time I drive it.

2. Intake:

The intake is very restrictive as far as I can see on these cars. A cone filter mod to the front of the MAS is in order or better yet a ram air type duct would be better. I have not done this yet, but it is in the works as soon as I find the right airbox. You ask how I know that would help? Have any of you ever heard of a Ford Excursion getting 20+mpg on the open road? Well, I have one with a home made ram air mod that gets that consistently. I will take pics and list materials as I go.

3. Ignition/Coil

I hear the coil is pretty good on these, but do tend to fall off at higher rpms. I am a huge fan of the older Jacobs Electronics stuff. I have run MSD, MAllory and Accel. The "OLDER" Jacobs stuff has provided the most dependable, smoothest and most mpg friendly ignition out of all of them. I have gotten as much as 1.5 mpg on a built 460 in a '72 Tbird using the older jacobs Pro Street System, more on smaller displacement motors. The new stuff not so much. STAY WAY FROM THE JACOBS FC SERIES STUFF! Get the older models period! At the least get a JAcobs coil to add to your car.
Brass conact cap and rotor are a must. Copper core plugs as well for best performance with the JAcobs system. Gap the plugs bigger than stock though.
Don't skimp on your plug wires. Don't waste your money on Accel or the new Jacobs wires. They are terrible! Try to find an older set of JAcobs wires on ebay for a Ford 300/4.9 motor, they should be about right. MSD has had some quality control issues lately as well. Stick with the best Bosch you can get if the ebay hunt for the Jacobs stuff doesn't work out. IMHO

4. Exhaust

The exhaust is very restrictive on these cars as well. I know you need back pressure but DAMN! I was looking at a 2010 Camaro exhaust system that I found on craigslist. It looks like it would fit with minimal work; a few cuts/welds here and there. I am picking one up this weekend to see how well it might work, if at all? This is not a big cammed, firebreathing big-block V8 nor is it turbocharged, so don't go too big on the exhaust. A nice 2.5" is plenty with some less restrictive mufflers and hi-flow cats. I really think the Camaro exhaust is the ticket, but won't know until I get my hands on it.

With these four mods I feel the power increase will be substantial and mpg will increase along with it. The drivability will be better and it won't/shouldn't be too loud either.

I have other ideas as well concerning tuning the injectors and timing with a piggyback tuner, but for now I will stay focused on bolt-on DIY mods that don't cost a lot and will make the engine more powerful and efficient.

Okay I put my ideas/opinions out there, now I am ready to get beat up, told I'm crazy and my ideas won't work!

 

I think most of us Jaguar owners want reliable Jaguars, we are usually content with the power of the engines.

Obviously there are a few folks who want more and more and more............but where the hell do you get to use it ?

As regards better alternative parts to the Jaguar ones, any parts that improve on the original are welcome, so keep this coming!

 

Thanks for not kicking my teeth in on this one!

I really should have explained my reasoning better for the inputs. Nearly everyone on this site and other sites talk about how thirsty these cars are and the low end is somewhat sluggish. There is a fine line between too little and too much. I was trying to meet in the middle as far as power and reliability goes. These cars do produce reliable power already for sure. The power they produce does come at a cost due to the restrictive nature of the intake and exhaust, this makes it rather inefficient. These mods will pay for themselves in short order and save you money in the long term use of the car. EVERY DOLLAR COUNTS AT THE GAS PUMP!

Adding the cone air filter mod is one of the cheapest and easiest with excellent return on power and efficiency for your investment. (About $22.00 at Autozone for a Spectre Cone air filter and bracket.) Expect a mpg increase over the stock intake. I mean look at the stock intake. That beautiful motor has the task of sucking air through a straw on the front of the air canister. Not good for power or efficiency!

The ram air is more involved, but can be done for a decent price. I am pretty sure an air canister from a Ford/Mazda truck or Mustang will work to make the ram air set-up. Will verify once I actually get my hands on one.
This will make the engine very efficient on the open road.

The coil in these cars is good, but somewhat dated. The older Jacobs stuff is an excellent alternative/upgrade. Jacobs Electronics never caught on big due to there marketing plan.They did pretty good in the 90's, then were bought and their components were "redesigned" into the FC series stuff and well the quality went to hell. They were shortly bought out by Mr. Gasket and then the line went out of business. I swear by their older systems still. Get one if you can, you will be pleased.

The exhaust is about the size of a pea shooter! Great for low end torque? I don't think so! This is a pretty big six with an excellent overhead cam head that can really breath. The small exhaust is robbing low end and cruising range efficiency and power, period. Open it up by any means necessary, but not too big. A 2.25 or 2.5 pipe off each of the exhaust manifolds into hi flow cats and an "H" or "X" pipe that leads to some less restrictive mufflers will be of great benefit to the car and your wallet at the gas pump while still producing reliable power. Check this Camaro system out. Not too big, not too small and appears to be a good match to retro fit to our cars. ( http://myrtlebeach.craigslist.org/pts/2050622328.html ) I found a set of headers for a XKE with a 4.2, they may fit our cars. Actually I am sure they will. I may add this to the mix prior to adding the Camaro exhaust

This car is my daily and I want to ensure I get it in the best running form possible without crossing that line into "TOOOO MUCH! The aformentioned mods will do it and not take away from its overall reliability.

 

I think it depends on what type of jag guy you are, many people here are purists and like to maintain as much of the original car as possible because that is what made them fall in love in the first place... Others have made very nice changes to improve the efficiencies of the car and that's fine too...vie never been big on the cone intake because of the hot air that's basically being sucked in...I just put in a better breathing filter in my car and it worms fine. I do like the exhaust idea though....good luck.

 

Okay guys and girls. Installed the Jacobs coil (Spare I had from a Jacobs ICE Pack) Also installed a spare cone filter to the air meter. DIDN'T START! DAMN!!!!!!!

Wasn't surer what was going on? I looked at the wiring and found a wire was shorting just under the wiring harness clamps. The wire had gotten so hot over time that the sheathing burned away. Anyway, replaced the wire and added rubber grommet wiring clamps in place of the stock crap.

Fired up and ran really smooth, much smoother than before. I also installed the cone filter. Just as I had anticipated, the car revved quicker and felt like it had unleashed a few ponies. Took it for a test drive and sure enough the low end was much better and the mid-range pull was substantial.

Yes, I agree with the purists that they want a concours example, that's cool. This is a daily driver and I need it to perform at its best AND get better gas mileage by whatever means available. The coil and intake mods will definitely yield that. I will post mpg results with this setup as I didn't have any prior mpg stats prior to install. I can bet you the ram air mod will yield substantial increases in mpg over this set up.

Just the little bit that was done today, it felt more powerful and responsive. I can only imagine how well she will run with the exhaust and ram air mods.

Again, I am not looking for a full on tire scorching hotrod, just a more powerful fuel efficient daily driver. I think I have found it.

 

I like your ideas. These cars could use a little improvement by the touch of the car crafter's hand. I don't know if those Camaro mufflers will fit, but the rest could be modified to fit. Headers from an E-type... not sure those will fit without modifying. The other option is to fit the European down pipe to the stock manifolds, and it would probably be close in performance to a header. But that would eliminate the pre-cat which may cause you problems if you have to get emissions tested.

I'd like to make mine perform better with some wise mods too. I liked reading about the Jacobs coil, I remember their old magazine ads were always intriguing.

Just a little more low end torque and fuel economy from freeing up this big 6 would be welcome.

I think a lot of owners are okay with stock due to the ease of obtaining replacement parts, maintenance, and not having to engineer new parts, originality, etc. Understandable, but a bit boring. I always appreciate well thought-out mods that meld with the original car tastefully and effectively.

Post some pics if you can! Please include the Ford 6 turbo project as well. (My truck is an 88 F150 302).

 

Thanks for the nod on my inputs.

The Ford 4.9 project is a brainstorming of myself and another gearhead here in NC. I had the idea while stationed in N. Mexico and met up with a gearhead here when I retired and he had the same idea as i did. It's his truck and motor, but he was unsure of what was needed to turbo the motor, that is where I come in. I have been building, tuning and racing turbo cars for some time now along with normally aspirated detroit iron.
Anyway, the motor is stock except for the .030 over 9:1 pistons and Delta Cams 10% over regrind cam. The head has been shaved .030 and has machined small block Chevy valves that are used for small base circle cams (longer stem length) they are 1.90int/1.60exh stuffed into the head that was ported by me, with stock valve train. The motor will rarely see anything over 5000rpm's, so the stock stuff is good to go with the 10% over regrind cam. It is all new components, but stock specs other than cam and valves. SAVED A TON over the Comp Cams valve train components you have to buy to warranty their cams.

The header and intake is a Clifford Research design. These guys know their American sixes. Great stuff, great quality and great prices IMHO.
The intake was gasket matched to the head. I didn't hog the head or intake out too much to keep the off boost low end velocity up. The exhaust was opened up bit more to help the motor breath into the long tube header. the turbo flange was welded on the end so the turbo is essentially underneath the truck with a big 3" exhaust out the back . It is plumbed into a front mount intercooler from a Saab then to the carb hat. We are running a Carter 600 carb with metal floats, leaner main jets and fatter secondaries. the carb is great for low boost turbo setups due to its two piece design. It doesn't require a carb box or o-ring shafts like the Holley carbs need. We are running an electric fuel pump and boost referenced fuel pressure regulator. With the boost dialed in between 3-5 psi on the roughly 9.2:1 motor, it should yield some excellent hp/torque numbers. As we break the motor in and check air/fuel ratios on the wideband, the boost will gradually increase to 7psi, maybe even 9psi if the carb holds up without a box.

I have gotten the itch to turbo the Jag 4.2 in my car. Just wanna' see what happens? In my previous experience, the Bosch fuel injection systems are very forgiving as far as learning mods to the motor.(i.e turbo, bigger injectors, blow through Mass Air Meter, alcohol injection, etc....) or I could run a 10:1 FMU on the stock injectors with little effort. Our 4.2 sixes are really excellent motors, I do hear mixed inputs on the durability though. Maybe I'll get a spare motor and start from there. By the way I have access to several Jags for parts, found then just by chance.

 

Corky Bell's turbo book has some pics of a tri-turbo setup on a Jag 6, I think in an E-type. Pretty nicely done, think they used FMU. Nowadays it seems preferable to go with aftermarket EFI. You and espresso both have a knack for making useful mods.

 

Thanks for the nod. I think I have an old copy of the Corky Bell book around here somewhere. I will look for the Jag motor. The tri-turbo setup is a waste of resources. It has been discovered that multiple turbos are not the best option. I have ran a twin setup ( Supra Twin turbo) and single Garrett GT series turbo setups on the Ford 2.3 SVO turbo motor. The larger more efficient turbos are the way to go. Ease of install, broader power range and easier to tune. The twin turbo setups have their advantages though if run in series. (i.e. smaller turbo for low end, then a larger for all out boost on top.)

I am getting the urge to turbo the Jag. DAMN!!!!!!! I should have never brought the turbo idea up! Now I'm gonna' have to do it!

 

Come to think of it I have a spare T25 and weld on flange, a Greddy rebic III with 3 extra injectors and enough intercooler piping to make it work. Hmmmmmm?????

 

Espresso,
I should have elaborated as to what I have as far as knowledge and parts go. I do appreciate your inputs concerning what is needed to make this work. Especially the rearend and tranny input. I just like the thought of boosting anything/everything I drive. 82secaturbo is no accident.
This wouldn't be my first turbo build if I were to do it. My last car was a Mercury XR2 w/ T28 running 20psi, 550cc injectors, FMIC, blow through vane air meter=same as our MAS, 3" downpipe and exhaust, tuned by a Perfect Power SMT6. It was a 1.6 DOHC monster!

Previous to that car is several motorcycles (3-Yamahe Seca 650 Turbos and 2-Kawi GPZ750 turbos) Mustang SVOs, Merkurs, Volvos- one with a 16v 2.3 modded with 8v turbo intake and exhaust thanks to www.turbobrick.com, Saabs and Supras along with my current Ford 4.9 turbo project. The Volvo and Saab cars use Bosch systems much like the Jags that are pretty forgiving as far as mods go.

I hear the stock internals are a toss up and the BW65/66 tranny is not well suited for any kind of beating. The rear end I have heard mixed feedback on.

*The Megasquirt is the best way to go for tuning if you can afford it and tune it. I can tune it, but can't afford it-right now! I have a Perfect Power SMT6 piggyback; great system that I have tuned several types of vehicles with (www.perfectpower.com) The piggyback tuning with bigger injectors (Supra 440cc or bigger) would do the trick for low or high boost apps and control timing, plus it can be tuned on the fly with a laptop.
I could go blow through MAS with the Greddy Rebic III injector controller and an MSD BTM. This will keep the stock computer settings and not affect idle or off-boost operation, but will provide more fuel under boost and retard timing to prevent detonation. It's the old school/archaic way to do it, but can be done.

*The SAS rear turbo system is the bomb as far as turbo setups go. It runs super cool and provides the best low end and high end response under boost. EXPENSIVE!!!! I don't need/want more than a solid 7psi. The Garrett T25 w/ a .48 A/R compressor will suffice for low end and mid-range romp.

* There isn't much room for a FMIC, so a water/air intercooler could be used. This will keep the boosted air temps low. What I like about this motor is its crossflow head design. Intake one side, exhaust on the other. This will give the air charge time to cool pretty good before going into the intake, so running low boost, I may not need an intercooler? Just a nice mist of water/meth injection? That is debatable as the alky injection needs refilled, but an intercooler is there all the time.

I have a wide band with datalogging for on the fly tuning with the SMT6.


I am not looking for a boulevard bruiser, just a more powerful, efficient cruiser. I have learned that a low boost turbo app with a well thought out intake and exhaust will beat stock normally aspirated efficiency any day of the week as long as, and I MEAN AS LONG AS you keep the boost sane.

 

82secaturbo, you know, i've been thinking of the cold air mod for my 83 series III for some time, but all i've done so far is stick a K&N in it (actually that's the first thing i do in practically all my cars! ) anyway, the previous owner attempted to close the hood while the air canister was still "out" and placed a nice little dent in the groove between the headlights on the hood. thinking of cutting (gasp!) and placing a tasteful scoop like on the hoods of the old t-birds (small of course) to send in a little more air ....what do you think could be done ?

 

The Tbird Turbocoupe scoop(s) would be a nice addition. Use one for air intake and the other for engine bay cooling. (Just an idea) There is an airbox from a Ford Escort that should work underneath the scoop with the K&N. It is rectangular, angled and has a rubber seal on it that is pretty thick and can be used to attach to the MAS and close the hood for a tight seal and will hold the filter in place too. Can't remember the year for the Escort, but a late 80's or early 90's GT is the one I "THINK" you can use.

Money and time has prevented throwing a turbo at the XJ6 for now. Be patient though. It is going to happen.

 

Do you have part numbers for which K&N filter you used as well as the Jacobs coil?

I like the suggestions you mentioned in the beginning. I'm not looking to go forced induction, no time or free funds right now, but I like the idea of smart choices to improve power and/or mpg.

Any word on your mpg after the changes?

Thanks,

Eric

 

Whenever you get the airbox from the escort, just make sure you remember the year of it. Then ask the parts counter which one fits that year. The mpg was terrible before the filter and coil install. I was getting 13.5 before tuneup, after tuneup netted 15mpg, now I am getting around 18.5 with filter and coil install. Ebay has a few of the older Jacobs kits with coils for less than 100.

JACOBS ULTRA IGNITION COIL | eBay


Electronic ignition Jacobs mileage Ford 200 250 six 6 | eBay

 

Thanks for getting back to me. Actually I'm not the guy looking to do the Escort mod, I was just looking for what K&N you add to the front of your AFM. When I go to K&N's site they tell me about a replacement filter for the stock filter in the stock can.

Since you brought it up, may I ask what you did as a tune up for your car?

Finally, thanks for the links on the Jabobs stuff. I saw the coil, but wasn't sure it would work on the Jag since it was a different shape than stock.

Thanks again,

Eric

 

Ronin,

Sorry bout that, wasn't paying attention to who I was responding to. Anyway the info is out there for anyone that can use it.

The Jacobs coil is an easy one to wire in, but the size of it poses a problem in the stock location. You may have to make a bracket or even extend the wires to make it work depending on which one you use. Get the whole Jacobs kit if you can, not just the coil. It would be well worth it though in the long run. Jacobs does make a stock type replacement coil, but they are hard to come by.

The K&N or Spectre filter is a universal design. The Spectre setup works just as well for half the price. They have kits that you can build and route yourself so you can also make a CAI and put the cone filter down low for colder air and better mpg. I have not noticed any difference between the K&N and Spectre filters, even on my turbo cars.

 

I almost forgot to ask. Has anyone done the chemtool/water mist into there intake tract yet?

I learned this trick from a turbo racer in NM. I was having pinging on a new Volvo 2.3 16V turbo build and he asked if I had water/alky injection. At the time I didn't. He suggested to try water/alky or chemtool 50/50 in a plastic water bottle and punch a small hole in the top of the bottle. Pull your PCV tube or in our case crankcase vent tune and spray a "LIGHT" steady stream into the tube. Be careful not to drown the motor though!

It will clean valves, combustion chambers, O2 sensors and cats in short order. At first it will look like a blown head gasket. It shaved 2/10ths off my time in the Volvo and motor ran superbly.

I have done this to all of my cars since learning this and they have all performed better after doing it.

 

The tuneup was done with a leftover set of Jacobs wires from a Volvo straight six (Ford 4.9 may be better), new cap/button, copper core plugs (Champion) gapped to .040. I new I was going to install the Jacobs coil, so it requires a .005 gap over stock. The initial mpg results of 13.5 were from previous owner before I got my hands on it. I just took it at face value after he had sold it to me. For now, she strolls like the big cat she is and doesn't sting to hard on the wallet. Exhaust and ramair is coming soon. School prevented to much down time.

 

Just purchased 2010 jaguar not even 5hours on drive back home restricted performance pops up call dealership they go to nearest dealership where I'm at. I take it there the tech jumps takes it for spin. ran fine we go to leave the worst smell like fireworks that just got through popping. The said the cats burned out. Due to fuel problem. And not safe to drive I'm nervous about future problems because of this still has six month of factory warranty . any thoughts