Make sure the spark plug leads are correctly wired to the correct plugs.

 

Checked the firing order a few times ,,sure its right.. the injectors are not clicking that i am can hear..........

I thought it was the black box as well. there was a spare in the car when i got it. both the sprare and the one on the block are old and dirty. Not sure if the prior owner got a used one and ddnt work. I swaped out the black box before I posted this last...whats the best way to check this or is it cheap enough to just replace and see what happens.

 

get one of the old ignition modules (aka Ignition Amplifier), open it and you'll see a GM amplifier/module inside. Go to a parts store like NAPA, bring the module and tell them to try to match it with this part number:

GMHEI 10482820

(I think that's a Beck-Arnley part number, not sure). It's a lot cheaper than the OEM Lucas part, so that if that is not the problem you won't spend too much $$.

 

You previously stated that you have spark at the spark plugs so the ignition amplifier (the little black box) seems to be OK.

But, for the record, here's a test procedure for the CEI (Constant Energy Ignition) from the service manual:


The test assumes a fully charged battery

1) Measure voltage at coil "+" terminal with key "on". It should be within
one volt of battery voltage. If not suspect a problem with the wiring to the
ignition switch, or the switch itself.

2) Measure voltage at the coil "-" terminal. Result should be the same as at
the "+" terminal. If Ok, go to step 3. If not....
Disconnect the wire from the amplifier from the "-" post of the coil and
measure voltage again. Less than 2 volts means the coil is faulty. More than
2 volts means the amplifier is faulty.

3) Disconnect distributor pickup coil from the amplifier (this is the
harness from the distributor that plugs into the amp). Measure resistance
across the terminals. It should be 2.2k to 4.8k ohms. If Ok, go to step 4.
If not, replace the pickup.

4) Reconnect the pickup to the amplifier. Measure voltage at coil "-" post
while cranking engine. The voltage should drop. If OK, go to step 5. If
not, the amplifier is faulty.

5) Check distributor cap and wires, distributor rotor arm, spark plugs, coil
wire







There is a tie-in between the ignition system and the fuel injection. The fuel injection uses the pulse at the coil "-" post as a "trigger". Since your injectors are not clicking it would be important to check the "-" post while cranking the engine. Your test light or meter should flicker.

Since you have spark at the plugs it's unlikely you'll have an amplifier problem but check it just the same.

Also check the trigger wire at the coil "-" post. It is white/black (or is it black/white?) and runs aft along the water rail.

At the end of the water rail is a bundle of fuel injection ground wires. Check that the connection to ground is clean and tight.

There are more checks to be made for (what appears to be at this point) inoperative fuel injectors but check the wiring first.

Cheers
DD

 

That's the actual GM part number. Actually, that's older number, as it has been replaced by 19180771. The AC Delco part number is D1906.

Can't swear to this but I think the the latest part number signifies a design change where the berrylium (spelling?) was replaced with something else.

"Back in the day" ....1970s-1980s.... the part number was 1875990, a number permanently engraved in the brain of any GM dealer parts/service guy because we sold 'em all day long! :-). From the mid 70s to early 80s GM used this module in darn near every car and truck they built.

Thanks for the stroll down memory lane :-)

Cheers
DD

 

GMHEI = General Motors High Energy Ignition module, one of a number of GM parts used in the Jaguar XJ-6.

berrylium = berrylium No. 4 Food Coloring used in cupcakes?

kryptonite = unobtanium

A tip from a Trial-n-Error Nician: unscrew the Cold Start Injector, hold it away from your face, have someone crank the engine; does fuel jet out from the CSI ??
YES: re-install CSI
NO: Houston we gots a problem

 

Thanks all,,,the ign mod wll be in tomorrow, ill try the rest hopefully today

 

ok, no fuel shoots out of the cold start injector. there is fuel at the fuel rail inlet hose.. so i guess i need a new CSI. question...........does a bad CSI prevent the fuel injectors from, clicking (working).

 

I don't think so, that would be a function of the Diode Pack, (a relay which is not a relay but a pack of diodes inside a relay case). The fuel in the hose could be remnant fuel from when the engine ran.

 

ok if the diode pack is bad will stop the code start relay from working

 

sorry i suck at typing... i meant will a bad diode stop the cold start relay from working

 

as I understand it, no, it's two different systems.

 

The cold start injector is controlled by the thermotime switch. Other than being connected to the same fuel rail as the regular injectors it has no relationship with the rest of the fuel injection system.

I can't remember what the orginal problem is with the car in question. If it is a "no start" condition the cold start injector is not gonna be the problem unless perhaps you're in Siberia. In moderate temperatures the engine will start without the cold start injector....but will take a bit more cranking.

On my Ser III the CSI was inoperative and I never even realized until December :-)


Cheers
DD

 

My two cents!
What type of Fuel injection system is on this car? L- Jetronic? If you have spark and you think you have ample fuel pressure, it is possible that by cranking the engine so many times, the engine could be loaded up with fuel. If that is the case, hold the accelerator to the floor and crank the engine. Cranking RPM and WOT will cause the system to shut the injectors down because the parameters low rpm and wide open throttle don't compute. However, your response to Jose was that the cold start injector did not fire. Go back to basics first. Do you have fuel. A whirring pump does not mean that it is good. (Had that problem with my 89 xj6)Only fuel pressure does. Disconnect the input fuel line anywhere it is convenient (Do not check the return line as the pressure will be low) and verify fuel pressure before you proceed to injectors and so on. The KISS formula works.

 

Which will tell you raw supply pressure....which should be about 80psi or so. Best to check regulated pressure by attaching your pressure gauge to the cold start injector nipple on the fuel rail.


Cheers
DD

 

the test light lights at the white/yellow at start relay ...at terminal 3 and 5 on diode there is no light at all...is it the diode??,,, and if diode is bad will it not let any of the injectors including cold start...........and yes my 1st post was a no start issue... thanks for help..

 

Previously it was metioned that the injectors are not clicking. I see no follow up on that. A "noid" light is an easy way to confirm if the injector circuits are working....which is important to know but won't necessarily identify a problem injector.

However if none of the injectors are working due a circuit problem it it fairly easy to figure out

Cheers
DD

 

Ok, next step....with the key "on" check for 12v supply voltage on the two brown/slate wires at the injector resistor pack


Cheers
DD

 

The point being<<<< do you have pressure or not. Nominal fuel pressure still tells you that you have fuel pressure generated by the pump. The FPR will do the rest. So the question still stand: Do you or do you not have fuel pressure. A very simple question and a very simple test. If I push on the schraeder valve on my 2000 XJR I can tell you if I have good pressure or not. Doug, I am positive that with all of your experience you can tell if you have fuel pressure in a system even though you wont know the exact PSI. That is the point I am trying to make. You really do not need special tools to do the job if you know how. Don't want newbe to spend unnecessary money for stuff he will use maybe once.

 

Then you have a circuit break between the start relay and term 3 of the diode pack. Term 5 of the diode pack won't show voltage if there's nothing at terminal 3 first







Cold start injector does not rely on the diode pack....except that the terminal of the diode pack is used as a convenient place to get 12v "when cranking" voltage (white/yellow wire) to operate the CSI and the thermotime heater.

The regular injectors get 12v from the "main" relay which is energized by the white wire out of the diode pack...terminal 4 as I recall

Cheers
DD