noid test.........not light ..nothing

 

both brown and slate wires at the resister pack have power

 

Will be back home on Monday, will send out the parts on Tuesday

 

BTW> There is a terminal with a black wire at the starter relay.( don't remember circuit #. Check that it is making proper ground.

 

what parts are you sending

 

Good! We'll assume the the injectors have power as well....as they only way they wouldn't is if they were disconnected from the resistor pack. Not likely

Now.....

1) Along the water rail....the pipe-like piece with the various temperature switches....there should be a single wire (white/black) with a bullet connector mid-way. See it?

Is this wire in good condition and it is attached to the "negative" post on the coil? This is the trigger wire for the fuel injection ECU in the boot. This is the wire that tells the ECU "Go to work" !

2) Next, remember to check the bundle of ground wires at the rear of the water rail. Make sure the connection is clean and tight....and that none of the wires have broken off. If a wire broke off it might be dangling out of sight. This is the ground point for the ECU and the entire fuel injection system. The fuel injection system cannot operate without these grounds intact....it'll be several black wires with ring connectors under a bolt head.

Cheers
DD

 

Doug not sure you saw but I did the test and there is nothing no light at all.

 

wire seems good and conected right.. the black bunch seems ok and intact ..im going to take it off and clean it just in case

 

There is no black wire. there is a black and green wire? There is a black wire thats bolts to one of the start relay botls as a ground. not sure where to go on that

 

After all this tiral and err I read other forums, one suggesting to replace ecu because of no power to injectors.......i tryed again today and tested all 6 and no power.

 

before you replace the ECU, did you try cleaning the ECU plug / connector?

 

yes i cleaned it when you suggested ..it wasnt dirty but i cleaned it good,, nice and shiny..thanks for replying

 

ive read they dont go bad but its old,, is there a way to test the ecu?

 

I've never even heard of a fried ECU, never in 22 years. I'm puzzled, I've seen some no-start threads but they always get it started. I really doubt it's the ECU, probably something really stoopit that's not letting the engine start. My ECU is dated Sept. 1983, (when the car was built), so it's even older than yours, and it works fine. I don't know how to test the ECU.

has someone else (other than you), worked on the car after it refused to start?

have you really really checked all the ground wires that Doug told you? Specifically a group of black wires and a small silver Ground Strap bolted to the top side of the cylinder head, (water rail), at the rear of the engine in the passenger side, near the battery. The wires are all on Ring Terminals, double check that one of the wires has not come off its ring terminal, the bolt can be removed with a ½" socket. While you're there: nearby, in front of, and lower than the battery, there is a black rubber plug which mates with another wiring harness plug; wiggle those plugs, one to the left, one to the right, as you push them together real tight.

 

The black/green wire goes to the neutral saferty switch. When the switch is closed, the starter realy is grounded.

If the starter works OK you don't have to concern yyourself with the black/green wire.

The black wire at one of the starter relay bolts.....not sure what that's for.

Cheeers
DD

 

We might be getting somewhere.....

OK, you have voltage TO the injector resistor pack BUT the noid light isn't blinking.

As I see here are the possibilities:

1) Dead resistor pack (not sure how to bench test the resistor pack)

2) ECU not grounding the injectors (no DIY test for the ECU. As Jose says, they seldom fail. But seldom isn't the same as "never")

3) ECU trigger wire from coil negative post is no good/broken
(Did you check this?)

4) Injector harness isn't connected to the resistor pack (not likely at all)

5) ECU not grounded (but you've checked the ground wires so scratch that off the list)

7) ECU not being powered up by the main relay (besides giving voltage to the resistor pack the main relay also powers the ECU....brown/slate wire at the ECU connector)

8) This is iffy because I'm not sure if it is true...but you can check it anyway: check the wiring at the coolant temp sensor. If the coolant temp sensor is unplugeed the engine will instantly die. Some say this happens becuase of instant and massive over-fueling. Others say that unplugging the coolant temp sesnor cuts off the injectors. So, if a CTS wire or connector was broken then it would be the same as unplugging it....which might kill the injectors

Cheers
DD

 

Jose,
iam the only one whos been working on it. i checked all what Doug said a few times.thanks
Doug,
ecu trigger wire is good but ill put a new connector on on anyway.
ill check the ecu brown/slate wire at ecu tomorrow.
The CTS wire is not good. i messed with it cuz the the rubber boot is gone before doing alot of the other stuff. I didnt think it would affect the no start and the connection is ..soso. I made it tight....or so I thought but maybe needs a new connection or sensor... ill check this tomorrow as well.
I think I covered everything else more tahn once.. i guess iam at either a new resister pack, ecu or the connections you guys said..thanks

 

anyone know what pin on the connector is the brown slate wire. i cant get to the wire or even see it. not much space in trunk . anyway i turn it i dont see it.

 

here's a diagram of the ECU wiring:

 

has power ...thanks Jose