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First you plan on laying the car up for at least a week and take notice of Everything, because I may have missed listing something as it's been a couple years since I did this!
Disconnect the battery. This is not a facetious remark, it's a reminder.
Remove the crash roll, being careful of demister vents and their tubes
Drop the right underskuttle, remove the glove box door and glove box
Drop the left underscuttle
Remove the dash/instrument panel, being careful of the side AC ducts (this is to let light in and so you can reach in for better access.)
Remove the left kick panel, Disconnect the vacuum pot behind it
Remove the fuse block on the blower motor
Disconnect the power wires for the fan
Pull off the pliable ducts going from the fan body to the matrix
Remove the 2 nuts on the bottom holding the fan assembly up to the car
Force the bottom damper OPEN, which closes the top damper and allows the fan assembly to be removed from the car. You'll wiggle and jerk and struggle with it, until unexpectedly, it'll fall out in your hands and you'll have No idea what you finally did right, and your car will look something like this:
It's taken me less than 10 minutes to type this up. The first one of these I did took half a day, mostly because some of these things are left out of the ROM.
A BIG possible hangup is the top damper that extends up into the fresh air intake under the grill just below the windshield. The linkages that connect this damper to the bottom one can be Very brittle and break easily. Fight with them with care.
To reinstall the fan, tape the duct securely to the fan FIRST! Then work it up around the steering column, to which you now have access from above, and gradually work and fiddle, tug, push, pull the duct around into position.
Again pulling the bottom flap OPEN, set the fan in place, wiggling and struggling to get the CLOSED top flap correctly through the hole and the assembly properly seated.
When everything seems to line up, hold your breath and put the 2 nuts on the bottom just to hold the fan in place, after which you'll have time to carefully position the ducts to the matrix. Be sure to remember to properly tighten these nuts before you quit.
Working a right-angle pick around between the ducts and matrix is essential for proper connection, because they DO NOT install correctly otherwise and you'll have cold/hot ambient air leaks into the cabin under force from the blower. There's no need to tape these two, they stay put just fine once correctly installed. (This tool will also be helpful getting the ducts properly back on the side vents.)
After this, it's merely a matter of going backward, putting everything back in reverse order to what you took it apart.
(';')
Last edited by LnrB; 10-19-2015 at 09:33 PM.
Reason: Missed a step
ok so the only thing left on the inner firewall is the central hvac unit! how does that come out? also dropped the v8 off to be broken in! exciting times for sure
Are you sure you Really have your heart set on removing that???
The ROM directs the following, from Step 10, because you're already done all the other 9 to get this far:
QUOTE
10: Disconnect coolant hoses at heater matrix bulkhead connections in engine compartment.
NOTE: Retain metal washer and sponge collar.
11: Remove the two large retaining nuts from he center of the bulkhead in the engine compartment.
12: Remove two retaining nuts from the center of the top rail.
13: Remove four bayonet connected stub pipes from sides of the unit.
14: Locate vacuum connections and clearly mark all tubes before disconnecting.
15: Disconnect electrical multi-pin connectors either side of unit. Note positions for refitting purposes.
16: Ease the unit forward and lift from car.
NOTE: Transmission selector should be in '1' position on automatic cars, or 4th, 2nd, or Reverse on manual gearboxes.
CAUTION: Great care must be exercised when lifting unit not to damage relay box. The unit must not be supported on these components.
(I tried that once, just because I had the rest of the AirCon system, but I was defeated by working conditions in the wrecking yard and lack of time so I left it in the car.)
REFITTING:
17: Offer the unit up to mounting position and ease heater connectors through bulkhead apertures.
NOTE: Ensure sponge backing is in position.
18: Loosely fit retaining nuts, ensuring that pipes, speedometer cables and electrical harness are not trapped before tightening.
19: Reconnect vacuum pipes as marked in operation 14.
20: Reconnect electrical multi-pin plugs and sockets as noted i operation 15.
21: Refit bayonet connected stub pipes to unit. Connect, turn clockwise until pipes are locked.
22: Ensure drain tubes from unit are located through grommets in side of transmission tunnel.
23: Refit facia.
24: Ensure pliable ducting is correctly located on facia and crash roll air vents.
25: Refit center console.
26: Refit center parcel shelf.
27: Refit underscuttles.
28: Refit crash roll
29: Reconnect water hoses in engine compartment.
NOTE: Ensure sponge collars and metal washers are in place BEFORE connecting heater pipes.
I've been considering a few options for the direction of the car and have made some executive decisions. The engine will be turboed in the very near future and a strong 4l60e box put behind it. The interior will be strictly function, so seats, roll bar, gauges and not much more in there. Thick sway bars and sticky tires, and not to mention ebc brakes (thank fully have those already), but this will be mean, loud, and fast. Updates and photos to come soon
I've been considering a few options for the direction of the car and have made some executive decisions. The engine will be turboed in the very near future and a strong 4l60e box put behind it. The interior will be strictly function, so seats, roll bar, gauges and not much more in there. Thick sway bars and sticky tires, and not to mention ebc brakes (thank fully have those already), but this will be mean, loud, and fast. Updates and photos to come soon
What happend? Did you test drive and found the performance unimpressive?
Did you build the 350 with the right compression ratio and cam shaft for a proper turbo setup? You may have to make some changes there for best results or you will have a 5000$ grenade. Consider a 4l80E. It takes a bucket of money and know how to get a 4l60e to handle that amount of power. 4l80e could manage it easily with a basic performance build. 4l60e is better on fuel but with a turbo 350 you're probably not that concerned. As for brakes...Pads alone aren't going to suffice. For safety sake you need more swept area in the front and especially the rear. Have you put enough power in the car to roll up the rear cage..A built 350 should do that...you will know if the drive shaft hits the floor and bangs on hard acceleration. It takes traction and a bit over 300HP. If the cage isn't banging on acceleration then you're not making much more power than the v12 or don't have enough traction. That will have to get dealt with too.
Last edited by icsamerica; 02-27-2016 at 02:50 PM.
What happend? Did you test drive and found the performance unimpressive?
Did you build the 350 with the right compression ratio and cam shaft for a proper turbo setup? You may have to make some changes there for best results or you will have a 5000$ grenade. Consider a 4l80E. It takes a bucket of money and know how to get a 4l60e to handle that amount of power. 4l80e could manage it easily with a basic performance build. 4l60e is better on fuel but with a turbo 350 you're probably not that concerned. As for brakes...Pads alone aren't going to suffice. For safety sake you need more swept area in the front and especially the rear. Have you put enough power in the car to roll up the rear cage..A built 350 should do that...you will know if the drive shaft hits the floor and bangs on hard acceleration. It takes traction and a bit over 300HP. If the cage isn't banging on acceleration then you're not making much more power than the v12 or don't have enough traction. That will have to get dealt with too.
I planned on turbos from the beginning, but having two 2001 vw gti turbos come to me, almost free, made me push that plan up. and true about the 4l80 vs 4l60, ill keep my eyes open for one. and i got new calipers, rotors and pads to handle the power and weight. dont know what you mean about the driveshaft? im having one made up to handle the power and torque of the new engine. ill take measurements once the engine and trans are installed.
I planned on turbos from the beginning, but having two 2001 vw gti turbos come to me, almost free, made me push that plan up. and true about the 4l80 vs 4l60, ill keep my eyes open for one. and i got new calipers, rotors and pads to handle the power and weight. dont know what you mean about the driveshaft? im having one made up to handle the power and torque of the new engine. ill take measurements once the engine and trans are installed.
You'd probably need 4 GTI turbos for a 350. Anyway don't fall into the free turbo trap. For a Jag with a 350 there is plenty of room for a properly sized single turbo on the passenger side. Modify your engine and trans mounts and move the engine back another inch and run the driver side pipe across the front to a Y pipe.
Under sufficient power the rear cage rotates or twists up enough that the drive shaft will hit the trans tunnel. There are various ways to solve this, Lister, TWR and Broadspeed all had different ways. I developed my own way years ago which ended up being a bushed version of the Lister approach. Search the forum for more on the subject use the term axle wrap or cage twist.
Sold the gti turbos on, as for the rear cage i was thinking about fabbing up a new subframe brace and mounting were the radius arms used too. something to stop twisting.
another question, are grade 5 bolts strong enough to hold the front spring hats on? or shoud i try to find grade 8
The BBS basket style is a classic look. Recently there was a Series 3 XJ on Ebay...black with gold BBS wheels and it was appealing to me because its a good performance look from a by gone era I lived through. In any case... it's a good classic look that is right for these classic looking cars. Are they real BBS? The real ones are 3 piece, strong and light too. It's kind'a goofy when someone puts boy racer thin spokes on a classic car.
Last edited by icsamerica; 03-12-2016 at 08:51 PM.
10-19-2015, 08:47 PM
How To Get the Left Blower Out
