XJ6 & XJ12 Series I, II & III 1968-1992

"Partial" Rebuild and "Clean Up" of '72 Rear-End

Old 06-01-2016, 07:59 PM
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Default "Partial" Rebuild and "Clean Up" of '72 Rear-End


First time post, thanks for the great forum!

I've got a '72 XJ6 with a shabby looking rear end. The rotors are shot, the pads are shot, the mounts are shot -- but everything else looks good. I've already changed the shocks in place, greased the outer hubs, and THEN came to the conclusion that I've really got to change out those rotors.

My question is this: I'm going to drop the rear end and I'd also like to change out the U-Joints. I don't want to mess with the rear bearings in the housing. Once I separate the halfshaft from the brake rotor what is the procedure for removing the "wheel" end of the halfshaft?

Do I simply remove the outer cotter pin and nut and have the splined shaft slide out? Does this otherwise alter the carefully shimmed and set bearings when I re-install that outer lock nut in place?

Any advice -- or other ideas would be greatly appreciated. I appreciate you all in advance.
Old 06-06-2016, 05:36 PM
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This can be easy-peasy, i.e. the hub carrier just pivots off the drive shaft splines, or difficult, needing a puller if somebody has Loctited the splines. You'll only know when you get that nut off. On my 1980 car, it just slid off, and I suspect yours will too. Main thing is to not lose the spacer that fits at the back of the splined section. This is to maintain the correct bearing free-play. Jaguar make great fuss about checking the free-play after new bearings are fitted, but the spacer is there to cater for poor Jaguar machining of the hub carrier. Anyway, you're leaving these alone as your post says. OK if they're up to snuff, but check them out and also the trunnion bearings. These are taper rollers that wear out over the very small segment of movement if not kept properly greased at the recommended intervals.

When you change the rotors make sure you maintain the correct distance either side of the caliper. When you dismantle, you'll find shims either side of the rotor mounting. These all need to go back in the order they came out, unless the rotor is not central, in which case you have to swap one or two from one side to the other. The wheel camber angle is adjusted by these shims at the factory.
Old 06-07-2016, 11:29 AM
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Mr. Mitchell:

THANK YOU for the very thorough and considerate reply. This is the exact information that I'm looking for. I appreciate the tips with the shims.

I'm glad it looks like it will be a (relatively) easy job to change the u joints without messing with the bearings.

Thanks so much.

Old 06-09-2016, 02:58 AM
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You may find parts of this thread relevant:


Its by 01xjr (Clarke) describing a rear end rebuild after an incendiary incident under his car.
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