Hey Everyone!

I haven't been present on the forum for a while as it is nearing the end of the semester and professors are throwing work at me left and right. I have managed to spend a bit of time with my Series III, and have brewed a few questions for those who are willing to answer!

So I got the car to the point where it will start on the first turn of the key, and is now moving around the driveway. I work for a Land Rover parts distributor and have found that A LOT of early Range Rover Classic parts are cross-compatible (in many cases, but not all of course), and this has helped save time with the process where shipping and handling slow it down.

Since my last post in early February, I've decided to ditch the dual tank system and have placed a 6 gallon fuel cell in the spare tire compartment (figuring I'd be insane to take a $400, 30 year old British car more than 40 miles from home in a day). Switching over to this fuel cell along with a new fuel filter canister was, by far, the most progressive thing I've done to the car so far. The fresh, clean, rust-free fuel (mixed with some Amsoil injector cleaner), allowed the XJ6 to get to a point where it idles without hesitation. This made me very happy! The only thing I need to figure out is how to go about safely mounting the fuel cell to the car. I think I want to keep the tank switch valve and plug the other end as a security feature if you think it would work out. No fuel to engine, no carjacking.

Additionally, I've replaced all of the fuses, and repaired any and all electrical faults to the lighting system so that the car is ready for inspection!

So here are the issues I'm having and I'll explain what I suspect so that you can tell me if I'm right or wrong:

I've been putting about two gallons of gasoline in the fuel cell at a time. The engine starts, idles, and sucks the entire tank dry in about 7 minutes. Good thing gas prices are low at the moment.

Next, when the car starts, it idle's but it idle's a bit high (although it's rough to tell if it's actually high because the tachometer has Selective Operation Syndrome and I'm like 1,000,000% sure the tail section of the exhaust needs to be replaced). Should you press the throttle within, let's say the first 10 seconds of running, everything works as it should (foot down = loud noises, etc). Should you touch the throttle at all after those first 10 seconds, however, the engine will sputter and die (unless you release the pedal fast enough, in which case it will resume it's idle). I'm only able to move the car at the idle speed, which is helpful, but not always enough power to keep the car running while in gear.

I've done some searching throughout this forum and various others, and I'm lead to believe the fuel pressure regulator is at fault, although I'm certain there are other factors at play here. I haven't removed it yet, and I don't want to spend $120.00 buying one on eBay if there's a chance it's not going to solve the issue. I also don't want to buy one used knowing there is a possibility of a ruptured diaphragm. We have an auto parts store that sells an adjustable fuel pressure regulator with a built in pressure gauge for $40 in my town. Would this be worth trying?

I realize that there is a long list of components to the fuel system, and to replace them all (fuel pump, air flow meter, fuel pressure regulator, oxygen sensors, coolant temp sensor, fuel temp sensor, injectors, cold start system, ECU), would cost a fortune. I only plan on enjoying this XJ6 through the summer, and plan to offload it at a British car show this fall for little profit. The car still needs tires and a some new brakes (the car stops fine, but it's been in storage since 1997 so I don't want to take any risks). In addition to this, I'm paying to have surface rust fixed and primed, as well as having it wrapped in matte black rubber for protection until the next owner can paint it. I don't expect to get more than $2,000.00 for the car (and that's pushing it). Would it be worthwhile converting the fuel injection to a carbureted system? I've been looking around and it's possible to obtain a pair of carbs with the manifold for around $500. Would this, paired with a suitable fuel pump, work out?

Thanks in advance for all of your help, this forum has always been the best place to get answers.

Dino

 

Remove the vacuum hose from the pressure regulator. Does any raw fuel drip out? If so, there's no question that the regulator is kaput. Note, though, that lack of fuel dripping does not confirm that the regulator is operating correctly. Only a fuel pressure test can do that. Do you have a pressure gauge?

Cheers
DD

 

So I removed the fuel pressure regulator and there was most definitely gasoline pouring into the vacuum line. Ordered a new one and installed it last night. Didn't try starting the car as I was out of gas, and the temperature here was a toasty 19 degrees Fahrenheit. While I was at it, I replaced all six spark plugs (they all looked very fouled and soaked with gasoline), and replaced the coolant temp sensor (because it seems like that is the only gauge aside from the fuel gauge that isn't functioning). I'm running home today after classes, now that the outside temp has reached 45, with my fingers crossed. Will post with results! does anyone have any other suggestions for me? Just in case the problem persists?

 

Started the car last night with the new regulator in place. Absolutely no change. I'm assuming that there's at least no fuel going into the vacuum lines now because of the new regulator, and the fact that there was still a bit of gas in the tank after 20 minutes of playing with it.

I think my next step should be to look for a vacuum leak, correct? I don't know what else could possibly effect this.

 

Any progress on this issue Dinop? Schools out! That jag running?