Working with a 1972 4.2 XJ6 that I've had for a number of years and am just getting down to fiddling with. It didn't have spark so I followed the coil wire to the coil and much to my surprise I found 2 coils. One was affixed with what I assume is the original bracket and wasn't connected to anything. The other was hanging freely from the coil wire with no other leads attached. I see two connections, one has two white cloth insulated wires (I'm assuming positive) and the other has one black/white wire (I'm assuming ground). I also see the resistor is connected with the same style wires as the positive wires so I'm also assuming that it is wired correctly. I have a Haynes manual but it's rather unhelpful in this instance.

The point wherein my question lies regards a condenser that was strapped to the coil that was hanging from the coil wire. It has a connector but no obvious connectionless it is secured under one of the nuts, but it was not when I found it and both nuts are tight. I found a video dealing with ignition in a much later sIII and it is wired in with the ignition amplifier. My thought is to connect what I believe to be positive to the positive side of the coil and same for negative, however I admit I do not fully understand how the condenser comes into play, or if it even does. Seems a bit hacked, being that there are two coils and all, so I wouldn't be surprised if the condenser remained from some previous use of the coil.

As excited as I am to see if it will spark so I can move on to fuel, I figure t is best to make sure that the resistor is not needed. As far as I understand they collect energy that has momentum, or something to that effect; but I admit I have no idea how that practically plays out. If anyone has an image of what all connections come off of the coil in their sI that'd be great.

On a side note I tested both coils and the affixed one read about 1.8-2.1 ohms and the dangling one 2.2-2.7 ohms. I've never had to deal with coil issues in any of my other automotive exploits, but as far as I understand 3 ohms is the high end of what a coil will read, so am I correct in finding that the dangling coil is in useable condition, at least to get it running?

Thanks all in advance.

Images:
-two connections
-dangling coil, with condenser

 

I can get back later as to coil connections (they are pretty straight forward, the ignition ON lead goes to the + via the ballast resistor), the - lead to the distributor)
But the condenser has no purpose except to reduce radio static from the ignition system. You can scrap it if you radio works well without it.

 

I can’t figure out why this was done, but it’s a total bodge, and could anger the electrical fire gods.
I highly recommend putting it back to factory spec.
‘Get a new coil, condenser and ballast resistor, and install per factory schematic. While you’re at it, consider new distributor cap and rotor.