What is the part that is in the plastic centerpiece in the dash that appears to attach to the drain? It has two wires that come out of it as well.

I appear to have a steering wheel that does not have any buttons for actuating horns. But I have horns mounted down at the motor mounts. Is this the steering wheel that belongs to the car?

 

If you remove the padding in the center of the steering wheel (2 screws from the forward side of the wheel) you will find a large white nylon nut thingy with a brass tube in the center. This is the horn connection which is a simple ground:


If you unscrew that large white nylon nut you discover it's quite a long brass tube:

The inner part, inside that small nylon sleeve at the bottom end, connects to a grounding post deep in the center of the steering column.

When you press the center of the steering wheel hard enough all these ground properly and the horn blares. IF you have power to the horns.
(';')

 

Ahh thank you @lnrb I will dig into that wiring and find out what it is up to at the moment then. Anyone have any ideas what the oddity in the dash is?

 

It's possible the grounding wipers aren't making contact with the inner column.

You have to get Under the column to see these, and you'll notice they're not on the same plane either, but separated by several degrees of radius. They contact the inner column merely by spring pressure.

Sometimes these get all gunked up and no longer make contact, meaning stuff on the column (like the horn switch) doesn't work.

Cleaning and lubing will fix it though.
(';')

 

Interesting. I have had my column exposed nearing a year now and dont recall seeing these. Will have to inspect more thoroughly. Those are for grounding?

On a side note, you wouldn't happen to know what the electrical path for the turn signals are would you?

 

Yes, the wipers are for grounding.

I have one hard and fast rule, "If it works don't mess with it."

Nix's turn signals have always worked so I haven't messed with them; which also means I don't know where the wires are between the lights and the stalk.
(';')

 

I know it's not a Jag so you guys won't be as interested. However, I just spent two months distracted from restoring my XJ6 to restore my 99 Ducati Monster.

Before and after pics




Before



After

 

I'm not a motor cycle guy. You guys scare me when we meet on the road.


But, an admirer of nice machines, oh yeah.


That one sure fits that category.


Nice work.


Carl

 

Thanks Carl.

I was amazed it even turned on after being completely disassembled and put back together by me.

 

What are the hardlines that run along the rear window of the car and into the headliner and trunk? Are these drains of some sort?

 

A bit of a guess here since I'm not too familiar with Series II cars. You might be seeing the various pipes for the fuel vapor pipes. Here's a pic of the set up on a Series III:

https://www.jaguarclassicparts.com/u...ipes-and-hoses

Cheers
DD

 

Yes, fuel vapor. Unless the changeover or tank valves malfunction, then they become fuel lines...

 

That makes me kind of happy that I am using a mechanical fuel pump then. Definitely wouldn't want fuel lines in my headliner.

 

Hi Mad,
The switchgear I was referring to would be the 6 window switches that operate the windows. The switches and wiring are rather unconventional compared to most euro or domestic cars in that era, and run the full current load through them. Are you going to use different switches (and relays for heaven sakes) for the windows and locks? I'd love to know what kind.
<<
ref:@LNRB I cut the entire central locking wiring harness out of the car, which is part of why i have no wires running around door sills. I am going to rewire it to a much simpler solution than what the factory did. The biggest reason for me doing this is to simplify maintenance, but also the previous owner of my car had started a few fires in this car and one of them damaged the central locking circuits and i can't know for sure the extent of the damage on the wires. I took the opportunity while i am doing a complete rewire to make it compatible with new computer controlled systems ( i am doing window motors as well just cause it wont be too much more work to do it all at once )
>>

 

PS... I like the black frame on the Ducati! Oh, and what color fingernail polish are you wearing in that pic of the horn button rod?

 

OH, that ain't Mad's. That is a trademark of LnrB!!!


Red nails and black NIX, her marks.,,


Carl

 

It's a L'Oreal color, Caught Red Handed;


discontinued now, but as soon as I learned that, I bought 4 more bottles online (had 2 already in 2009) .

I still have 2 new bottles. So in 6 years I used 4 bottles (I'm Very careful with it as there IS NO MORE) I should have this signature nail color for at least another 3 years, 4 if I'm Really careful.

And now back to our regularly scheduled programming........
(';')

 

Love the side track that we just went on


@slofut
At the moment I have not planned on replacing the window or door lock switches themselves. I imagine that they look and operate fine when wired correctly and polished up. I am however not going to wire them the way that they were originally. I am going to be running an H bridge configuration to each motor ( door and window ). This H bridge configuration is going to utilize two SPDT relays, one for each direction that the motors turn, per motor. With four window motors and four door locks, that is going to leave me using a lot of relays to get this job done. I am likely going to hide them underneath the driver and passenger doors respectively.

If you are a simple maths kind of person then you have already realized that I am talking about an unspeakable number of relays to come to this solution. In fact I am going to have to add in even more! Since the car has master switches for the power door locks then I am going to need one more final H bridge per each system (read power window system, and power door lock system). This is going to leave me with four relays per door, and four relays for the master controls, or twenty SPDT relays in total.

Now someone might be curious as to why I would bother to split the door locks onto their own separate H bridge relay circuits. I am doing so for the following reasons:
1: If one of the door lock motors fails and overloads the circuit then I would prefer that the rest remain functional. Note, This could also be achieved with inline fuses between the motors and relays.
2: I may want to expand upon computer controlled door locking and unlocking in the future based on proximity. RFID chips or bluetooth or some other near field communication standard.
3: Having separate circuits for each door allows me to control the doors individually. May or may not be used ever in the future.
4: The relays are incredibly cheap and reliable.



I will update this post with the model relay i bought and will try to hunt down the website I bought them at when I get the information.

 

Interesting idea . . . but have you considered why relays at all? . . . never mind how many? Consider a fully digital use of discrete scr/diode pair or dedicated H-bridge pack for each of your proposed pair of relays. No more expensive, methinks, but way more reliable.

Best wishes and keep us posted on progress,

Ken

 

I bought the relays for like $1.75 ea and they are plug n play with quick disconnects on each pin. Can be replaced on the side of the road in a few seconds. I am sure there are tons of better ways to do it. I even considered just grabbing a raspberry pi and using a dac and a touch of programming to come to the same point.

In the end it was the cheapest and easiest for maintenance.