Series 1 air conditioning help needed
#1
Series 1 air conditioning help needed
Hi everyone:
on our 71 xj6, we have the original York compressor with R12 in it. Quick background/refresher.... car has 36k original miles, was parked in 79, etc....
last year we had the a/c recharged with leftover 12, and it worked great, no issues.
this summer, went in to have it recharged, took the freon, sight glass looked good, clutch engaged, blower motor works, heater works just fine, etc.... did not get cold, and mechanic said the pressure showed there to be a blockage somewhere, possibly/probably the expansion valve. He thought that after sitting so long and the recharge of last year maybe it loosened particles or gummed it up.
thoughts? Ideas? Do you have to remove the entire dash to get to it?
thanks,
paul
on our 71 xj6, we have the original York compressor with R12 in it. Quick background/refresher.... car has 36k original miles, was parked in 79, etc....
last year we had the a/c recharged with leftover 12, and it worked great, no issues.
this summer, went in to have it recharged, took the freon, sight glass looked good, clutch engaged, blower motor works, heater works just fine, etc.... did not get cold, and mechanic said the pressure showed there to be a blockage somewhere, possibly/probably the expansion valve. He thought that after sitting so long and the recharge of last year maybe it loosened particles or gummed it up.
thoughts? Ideas? Do you have to remove the entire dash to get to it?
thanks,
paul
#2
Expansion valve R&R
I have done this twice... the worst part is finding a proper replacement valve. If going to R134 you need a modern one that is adjusted for the different gas. I have no idea on how to find a new original replacement valve today.You have to have one with a flare fitting on the bottom or use a adapter... taking off the old valve demands using two wrenches, one to hold and the other to loosen.
If LHD, you have to remove the glove box wood for easier access.. then the long tube that goes from the valve itself to the left hand side is a lot of fun. (Some cut the tube and join the ends together with solder and a slip on fitting). The ends should be all covered with black goo (needs to be replaced after new valve)... getting to it is not easy..I take off the dash pad and remove the Tach. Then you have to reach up and use tools carefully to get the fitting off.
Somewhere I have the part numbers we used the last time I replaced the one on my '71 XJ (it is a current model with the adapter used to join the bottom to flare end)... fortunately I have a good local AC guy but I R&R the valve to save him the learning time and my money.
With a modern AC compressor (Sanden) and a modern designed condenser, I get 39-41F at the side vents with the AC on and with moderate outside temps (85-90F) in a black interior with BRG exterior and no tinted glass. But the car is fully insulated from under the headliner and from the front to the rear package tray.
If LHD, you have to remove the glove box wood for easier access.. then the long tube that goes from the valve itself to the left hand side is a lot of fun. (Some cut the tube and join the ends together with solder and a slip on fitting). The ends should be all covered with black goo (needs to be replaced after new valve)... getting to it is not easy..I take off the dash pad and remove the Tach. Then you have to reach up and use tools carefully to get the fitting off.
Somewhere I have the part numbers we used the last time I replaced the one on my '71 XJ (it is a current model with the adapter used to join the bottom to flare end)... fortunately I have a good local AC guy but I R&R the valve to save him the learning time and my money.
With a modern AC compressor (Sanden) and a modern designed condenser, I get 39-41F at the side vents with the AC on and with moderate outside temps (85-90F) in a black interior with BRG exterior and no tinted glass. But the car is fully insulated from under the headliner and from the front to the rear package tray.
Last edited by Roger Mabry; 07-02-2017 at 11:40 AM.
#4
Thank you for the information and replies!
I think Terry's Jaguar has a replacement valve, but not sure about the 134 compatibility.
I tried taking the glove box piece out, but what is the trick? I removed the two bolts behind the center gauge access panel, and the single screw going to the dashpad, but no luck.
I think Terry's Jaguar has a replacement valve, but not sure about the 134 compatibility.
I tried taking the glove box piece out, but what is the trick? I removed the two bolts behind the center gauge access panel, and the single screw going to the dashpad, but no luck.
#5
Removing that section of the dash wood is the easiest part of whole job. You need to get a Jag CD or at least one of the poor aftermarket repair/parts manuals. The side vent has to be removed and the retaining screws - shake the wood piece and you should see where it is still attached. This just gives you some access to the expansion valve...
If Terry's does not say it is a "modern" valve for R134... then the adjustment screw has to be used to get the correct R134 flow rate... I would talk to your AC guy as he should have a proper modern valve and adapter for the flare fitting.
My poor handwriting shows we used a Global Products valve CPD 3411238..lengthened the capillary tube and used a slip on fitting and silver soldered it to the old portion on the left side. The adapter was a Santech flare to thread MT1496 and I show two each used???.
If Terry's does not say it is a "modern" valve for R134... then the adjustment screw has to be used to get the correct R134 flow rate... I would talk to your AC guy as he should have a proper modern valve and adapter for the flare fitting.
My poor handwriting shows we used a Global Products valve CPD 3411238..lengthened the capillary tube and used a slip on fitting and silver soldered it to the old portion on the left side. The adapter was a Santech flare to thread MT1496 and I show two each used???.
Last edited by Roger Mabry; 07-06-2017 at 08:09 AM.