So my first post in a while. I am suspecting that my ignition coil has failed. Can anyone who's owned one of these cars longer than me sheed any light on this?

Here's what's been happening,
-recently the cars been begining to start spluttering when starting occasionaly and backfiring with a strong odor of petrol.
-occasionally the car runs on odd number of cylinders. And not always do the same cylinders cut out.

The final end to it came when I put my foot down at the intersection and the motor died and then just wouldn't start from there on, motor winds over just no spark. Iv already had a new distributor put in the car previously and there is no spark to any of the plugs. So I'm assuming my coil has gone.

So if you have any advice its greatly appreciated!

 

im assuming the car is a six cylinder with the electronic ignition jaguar had on the series 2 / 3 cars.

first, take the ignition amplifier off the car and clean its mounting points as these are ground points. if this dosnt fix it make sure the wiring from the dizzy is intact and all good. disconnect the ignition amplifier wires that run to the coil so the only wire left on it is the 12 volt power feed on the positive side. check there is power there. if there is get a length of wire and connect one side to ground. when you touch it to the negative side of the coil and remove it it should produce a spark from the coil wire. if it dosnt the coil is bad.

be sure to check the wire from the coil to the car is good as these do 6 times the work of the spark plug leads and fail often

hope this clears it up, if the system dosnt have the amplifier then the coil test will still apply but to avoid damage to anything in the ignition system make sure you remove all the other wires besides the positive feed wire.

if the coil is good and it still dosnt produce spark check the gap between the reluctor in the dizzy then the resistance of the reluctor. if its open circuit its stuffed. if all else is good the ignition amplifiers are known to fault but dont go buying anything until you know what it is becuase by the time you replace it all it could cost $500.

 

As asked already, 6 or 12 cylinder.

Lift teh cap, turn it upside down, ensure the "carbon brush" contact is is place.

I have had 7 with the same symptoms as yours with that brush contact worn away 100%. Your in NZ, go to your local GMH dealer and get a carbon brush for a Holden of about 1972- 1985, last one I got was $4. I have the part number somewhere, so if you need it, post back, I will do the search and find it for you.

 

Try running a wire direct from the positive battery post to the positive post of the coil. if it runs, look for an electrical fault in the circuit providing power to the coil.
If it has a ballast resistor, bypass it: my car's was failing intermittantly and it would die at every intersection and be difficult to restart.
A coil is cheap; try a new one.
Electronics fail in strange ways and it's often temperature-related: when the part gets hot it starts to act up. Don't overreact, though: check the simple, basic (and cheap to fix) things first.
hope you get going soon!

 

Thanks everyone for your prompt replys!! So here's what I've done...

I had tested EVERYTHING and finally found the negative feed from the coil had been minced by the power steering pump pulley - how it got there who knows. The battery negative cable was also shorting to earth and had melted through the plastic casing up near the bolt on the chassis.

I also pulled all the plugs and found cylinder 3 was fouled with petrol, cleaned all plugs on th wire wheel, reinstalled them but with the plug from 3 in 1. Took it for a drive and pull them all again and found cylinder 1 fouled. So I replaced the plug with a 'second' I had that was the same heat rating. Ran the car and pulled all the plugs again - problem solved! Yay.

Next issue, poor idling and running rich. I did a coompression test just to be sure the was no gasket leaks. So next checked the timing. I'm not too sure what was going on there, none of the cylinders were sparking at the timing mark. I suspect that when the entire distributer was replaced the timing was never adjusted. So I wound no1 up to top dead centre then marked the crank pulley with tippex/whiteout/twink according to the timing mark. Then lostened the timing adjuster nut under the dizzy and rotated it 5-10 degres to the right fastened the nut and ran the car, checked the timing marks again with the timing light and checked to be set correct. The timing mark on the pulley should now be 1/4 inch before the timing pin.

The car still runs a little rich but I know I need to rebuild them carburettors at somepoint so the isn't much I can do about it, its better than it was. Before I touch the carbs I really want some literature on them first.

So if you own one of these and you have this problem, here's hoping this helps you too!!

 

If it is running rich it is probably the AED unit between the carbs which is the automatic choke; they gave problems even when new with over fuelling. throw it away and replace it with a manual choke.
Cheers Ray

 

Hi Ray, mine has a manual choke, even with the choke off the car still runs rich, pull the choke and all you do is flood it unless the motors stone cold. I'm yet to fully investigate it.

 

Being a Daimler 6 cylinder, it probably has HS8 SU carbies, and the manual choke mention hints that way also.

If there is a small plastic hose under the bowl running to, and part of, the main jet, it is a HS8 SU carby.

VERY simple carby to clean and reset.

Balancing the 2 will test the patience, and setting the cold idle "angle of the dangle" will have you take up serious drinking, but fun will had and the end result is sooooo pleasing.

I have done many over the years. PM me if you want diagrams and write ups, no issues.

Please DO NOT forget to post any PM results here, it keeps the Mods, and me, warm and fuzzy, and the "search" function up to date.

TIME consuming the first time, YES.

 

Simple!! that's a word I like. When I get home I'll open the hood and have a look at the SU's and confirm. I have a feeling that you are right grant and that they are HS8's. (I may have seen it written somewhere in the paperwork).

I thought I'd test the car and went out in the frosty cold to go start it, a feat it would never have allowed previously.
Choke on fully and turned the key and it fired strait up. It was like christmas i almost wanted to do a little jig after it left me stranded at the petrol station yesterday morning, post $170 of gas. Like a kick in the guts.

Well lets hope it behaves today.....

 

Well more problems with my lovley car. Fuel leak pouring onto the motor from the float bowl overflow.

Thank goodness I'm a mechanic, makes life so much eaiser ha-ha. So I disassembled the float assemblys and discovered they were full of rusty water and fuel. I assume from the old fuel tanks and lines. Immediadley suctioned out everything and cleaned everything with carby cleaner. I also decided to flush the fuel lines and replace ALL the fuel filters and the filler cap seals.

I then discovered that the needle valve in carburettor 1 is damaged causing the float chamber to flood, so I need to find a replacement, I've had little luck, so have resorted to the jaguar dealer for advice. Running a hose from the overflow to under the chassis to divert fuel away from the hot engine. Who knows I could have set fire!!

I then decided while it was on the hoist that I'd do a full service on it and dropped the oil and filter. Which wasn't to bad, the old oil was petrol fouled and needed changing and finding a new filter took hours. I got the only one in the city. All that's left to do is new spark plugs and it should be a new car.... Hopefully.

 

Needle and seat for SU, should be simple enough, but NZ could be an issue.

I use Midel in Sydney, 02 97595598. I think they have changed the name recently to Fabre or Sabre or something. Google will find them quick enough.

I am assuming a spin on oil filter??, if so Z113, or Z133 will sort you well. If its a cartridge style, fun will be had, they are getting scarce anywhere.

 

I have one of those lovley cartridge type filters. I had to go through 2 stores who rang around to a 3rd to find it for me. They assured me they have at least 1 in stock and if I'm planning an oil change to ring them first. What a mission.

I'm not sure what to do about the float/needle and seat. I want to replace the whole thing as it is brittle and already slightly damaged. Even a quality second hand one would be good in the mean time I guess. It would be safe at the very least. (I wouldn't have petrol all over my distributor and coil!!)

 

My suggestion, JD in hand, is do the carbies ONCE, do them properly, and revisit in 10 years.

Midel have all you need in kit form. New jets are additional and HIGHLY recommended by me.

Prices are reasonable in my opinion, but it has been years since I needed anything from them.

Fuel leaks will catch fire, and no one is exempt from that, either 6 cylinder, or the REAL engine V12. They are simply a NO NO.

Here you go, Aussie to Kiwi, HAH

http://www.sumidel.com/index.html

Their shipping is fast and the guys really know their stuff.

Cartridge filter, BUGGA.

 

I would just add a couple of ideas.
it is really hard to properly clean a fouled spark plug with a wire wheel. Adequate (?) in ridding it of any crud between the + and the - on the gap. but, buried goop in the recesses, not much chance. I have a little sand blaster attached to one of my tool chests. Once a staple in any auto shop!!!

Next best, is a dram of fuel in the cavity and a match to ignite it and burn off the oily goop.

And, again, back to the old days, most had a small point file. It would clean the gap nicely.

And, milady's nail file, paper or metal does the job nicely.

Clean sharp, properly gapped plugs sans worn electrodes do wonders!!!

Carl

 

Hi I have 3 x cartridge filters in stock part number GFE140 if you cant locate any where else. For your carbs you could try TULMAC CARBUETTOR SPECIALIST. They in Levin north of Wellington. The contact is Graeme Tulloch phone 0276122312 or 06-3682202.
Cheers Ray

 

Still have one marked "Champion" ... somewhere.