Thist it was only the horn and the washer motor. But if i count all gremlins they are far worse. The fuel switch doesn't work, The interior switch doesn't work, The door lights switch doesn't work. The car runs very good on LPG but when i switch to petrol it stops running. I suspect no fuel pump. The clock doesn't tick. Rear windows don't open but the front work fine.
All the fuses are fine. The car has a key less entrance and a starter button. No key. Can it be that the hobby mechanic who did this forgot to connect a few wires or it is a groundig issue? I can i investigate it the best way. I'm have a multi meter but i'm not really handy using it. All help is welcome.

 

Series 2 wire corrodes internally. The insulation gets small cracks and air and moisture from the atmosphere corrodes the wiring. The copper used at the time is just a very poor alloy. If you were to peel apart the wiring you would see the strands themselves are corroded and grreen. This gives the wiring reaiatance. Sadly the only solution is to replace all of the wiring. I've done this with great success using the wiring and relays and connections from a series 3 car. By the time the late Series 3 Cars came around in the mid-eighties this issue had mostly been solved.

I've got a series 2 barn find that's been stored indoors and completely rust-free just 44000 miles. And i put a battery on it and all these electric don't work smoke comes from here and there it's just a mess and this car untouched.

 

Quite frightning this corrosion. I think i just start under the dash and look where everything is going and take out the offending wire? My car was stored the last 8 years but lucky for me, no smoking wires. It runs and drives quite happy. Thanks for the update. I think i start looking for a specialist in this field.

 

The alterations by the PO is a good place to start.

Earths are rampant on the S2, as are the corrosion issues already mentioned.

This always puts a bright note on the whole thing.

Electrical theory as per Joseph Lucas.doc