I'll try to keep this short.

The trim around my windshield is a bit of a mess. The glass was out at some point and trim re-installed poorly. They are a bit twisted and ugly---probably due to ham-handed removal.

It really isn't a very good design to begin with.

So, I've been pondering an alternative.

Has anyone simply abandoned the original stuff and installed something simpler? Lot's of choices out there; here's one just to give a rough idea of what I'm thinking of:

https://www.steelerubber.com/locking...rom-70-3425-52

Thoughts?

Cheers
DD

 

once that trim is removed, it is damaged forever. Nobody knows how to replace it correctly. There's not even documentation of how it is done.

all I have heard is that it is glued in place but they don't say what kind of glue.

 

When I removed the windscreen glass (front and back) on my 86, I removed the glass and the trim together by cutting the old factory sealant at the point where the sealant and body meet. Then I very carefully separated the metal trim and the sealant - connecting it to the glass.
Then I carefully removed any sealant still sticking to the stainless trim.
The trim will probably get twisted a bit - can't be helped - the sealant can be tough to remove in places.

Here is the important part, just before re installing the trim and glass, I used the old windscreen as a pattern,.. and trial fitted the stainless against it ( bending / tweaking it,.. so that it sat squarely on the glass).

In my case I chose to abandon the plastic filler strips - inner and outer - and instead,. I filled the entire channel with windscreen mastic / sealant.
I fitted the glass into the channel (leaving a 1/4 gap on all sides) then pressed the trim into the still liquid sealant - sinking it into the sealant until it came to rest on the glass . Working quickly is key here. I did a couple of "dry practice runs" - fitting the glass etc. before shooting on the sealant, (as soon as it is exposed to air it starts setting up),.. just to see how much time it actually took and what things may interrupt the process once started. All went smoothly. I used mineral spirits to remove the excess sealant where the filler strip would have been,..
the car has been bone dry inside for 6 years now. I would never use the filler strips again - they are the key reason these Jags leak at the windscreen corners - they trap water under the trim and filler strips and rust begins.
This is a picture of the rear left side pillar , it shows what the sealant looks like when used in place of the filler strips. Stainless is buried into the sealant. The effect is not noticeable (except the Jag enthusiast who still has leaking windscreens at the corners). The car does not have that slightly moldy smell anymore.

 

Hi Doug, Ive decided to resurrect this post that you started last year. I like the idea of using a third party replacement for the chrome trim around the windows. The thread got a little off topic and I was wondering if you did indeed replace your trim. If so could you direct me to the parts you used and the method of instalation.
Thanks
Con244

 

Hi Con,

No, never found anything suitable.

When I asked the question nearly a year ago I was planning to have the car repainted but that project kept getting pushed back. Life gets in the way and all that. I'm hoping to take another run at it this winter. I'll probably go with Alyn's method

Cheers
DD

 

I had both the front and rear removed when I repainted my car about two years ago.
I cut out the trim myself so it would not get bent.

not a very good photo, but the trim was safely put back in place REAR
FRONT

 

Doug,
yes I'm thinking the same. If there is no space around the glass surely it can't rust? I have what looks like a major problem on the bottom of the back screen. I'm just in the process of removing the screen, I'm going very slowly and am going to leave the shiny stuff in place when I remove the screen. That screen adhesive is a real PITA to cut. It's still soft-ish but difficult to cut through. I'm thinking about looking for a solvent or maybe heating the knife. I've got the back seats out and no rust to be seen so maybe I'll get lucky. Committed to the removal noiw so no going back,
Con

 

hi Sanchez, how did you manage to get the trim of without damaging it? I have removed the two finishing trims and managed to get the joiners at the corners and at the centre of the bottom off without damage, but the rest seems fairly well stuck. I have been running a Stanley knife through the joint between the trim and the body but don't feel like I'm getting anywhere although I can feel the knife edge on the metal underneath but the trim is still firm.
con

 

The OEM rubber moulding on the inside(glass side) and outside(body side) of the bright work is not part of the windshield seal. They are just fillers for the space that is left when the glass is installed.
The inner and outer rubber moulding are two separate pieces with the bright work in between.
First, I removed the glass side rubber moulding. the inner edge of this moulding gets partially stuck with the adhesive, but about 90% can be removed. This leaves a space between the glass and the bright work.
The same applies to the body side rubber moulding but only about 50% comes off easily. With the 50% removed, you start cutting from the glass side.
Trying to cut the adhesive from the body side is more difficult because of the angle you have to use the blade.
From the glass side you are able to get a flatter cut.
My wife is an RN and was able to get me some scalpels which are thin but very strong and extremely sharp.
Later today when I go into my garage I will post a pic of the blades I used to remove the bright work without damaging it.
You state:
"don't feel like I'm getting anywhere although I can feel the knife edge on the metal underneath but the trim is still firm".
I tried from the body side and had the same experience. The reason is because you are trying to cut the adhesive between the glass and the body.
Doing it from the glass side you will be able to cut the bright work away from the glass.

 

Thanks for the tips Sanchez, I have just removed the trim with a minimum of distortion using your method. now I just have to get the glass off and start the repair work.
con244