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Switching solenoid bypass

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Old 05-21-2016, 12:53 AM
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Default Switching solenoid bypass

My series 3 xj6 is only running off one tank. That's how i bought it.Apparently the solenoid died & wasn't replaced, left tank was left idle. Can i do without the solenoid & just run out of both tanks by adding a T piece into the fuel lines?
Has anyone done it & if so how successful was it?
 
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Old 05-21-2016, 01:04 AM
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I have read before if you do that and park the car on an angle with full tanks the higher tank will drain to the lower tank and overflow. I don't know if it is true but the theory sounds right.

I was at this place recently, he had a couple of series II or III's he was wrecking.
https://www.google.com.au/#q=jaguar%...07976732603025
 

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Old 05-21-2016, 12:08 PM
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I don't know about Series 3, but my Series 2 already has the tanks Teed together just ahead of the right tank. However, I think they were in-tank pumps with anti-backflow valves, because it doesn't draw from both equally, and I have no trouble when parking on a side hill.
(';')
 
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Old 05-22-2016, 08:00 AM
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Best thing to do is figure out why the left tank was isolated.. Chances are there is more at play than just the solenoid.
There are 3 solenoids that work together...
The default side is the left side.. So if nothing is touched on the dash switch, fuel will automatically return to the left tank, the right is blocked by one solenoid, and the fuel is pulled from the left.
When power is applied via the dash switch, all of that changes.
Given the fact that it's the left that is isolated, chances are that all of the switches have been either bypassed, blanked off, and/or removed...
A first test would be to make sure that the tank isn't leaking... Then removed the solenoids and bench test their functions... And if it does prove to be only the changeover in the boot that is faulty, they are relatively inexpensive...
A "T" can be used, but if you do that, you'll also want to bypass the fuel return valves on each side, so that fuel also returns to both tanks (the left is default open without power applied)..

Cheers
David
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Last edited by davidboger; 05-22-2016 at 12:15 PM.
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Old 05-23-2016, 01:35 AM
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Originally Posted by davidboger
Best thing to do is figure out why the left tank was isolated.. Chances are there is more at play than just the solenoid.
There are 3 solenoids that work together...
The default side is the left side.. So if nothing is touched on the dash switch, fuel will automatically return to the left tank, the right is blocked by one solenoid, and the fuel is pulled from the left.
When power is applied via the dash switch, all of that changes.
Given the fact that it's the left that is isolated, chances are that all of the switches have been either bypassed, blanked off, and/or removed...
A first test would be to make sure that the tank isn't leaking... Then removed the solenoids and bench test their functions... And if it does prove to be only the changeover in the boot that is faulty, they are relatively inexpensive...
A "T" can be used, but if you do that, you'll also want to bypass the fuel return valves on each side, so that fuel also returns to both tanks (the left is default open without power applied)..

Cheers
David
shop.EverydayXJ.com
OK, i have read that twice but will probably need to do it again. There is no solenoid in the boot, just an electric fuel pump running off the right tank. Not only is the left tank completely disconnected, it is also locked & i do not have a key for it. Only got one key with the car & that only works the ignition. So chances are that tank is stuffed anyway.
 
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Old 05-24-2016, 08:07 PM
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Yeah it sounds as though they didn't intend for it to be used.
Have you looked in the RHS wheel well to see if there is a solenoid there, or if it's just straight-piped?
Sounds as though to get things going again, you may need a LHS tank, two fuel return solenoids and one switchover solenoid...

David
shop.EverydayXJ.com
 
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Old 05-25-2016, 12:54 AM
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Originally Posted by davidboger
Yeah it sounds as though they didn't intend for it to be used.
Have you looked in the RHS wheel well to see if there is a solenoid there, or if it's just straight-piped?
Sounds as though to get things going again, you may need a LHS tank, two fuel return solenoids and one switchover solenoid...

David
shop.EverydayXJ.com
It's going ok, just on one tank & it seems to be a thirsty bugger so regular fuel stops are the norm at the moment. My other option was a race car type fuel cell in the boot. I can get a 80 ltr fuel cell for half the price of a new left tank.
 
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Old 05-25-2016, 01:10 AM
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If you do go for your fuel cell you'll nearly triple your fuel capacity. The tanks only hold about 12 gallons, whatever that is in Oz. That can't be a bad thing!
(';')
 
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Old 05-25-2016, 01:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Rickxj6
...Not only is the left tank completely disconnected, it is also locked & i do not have a key for it. Only got one key with the car & that only works the ignition. So chances are that tank is stuffed anyway.
These locks are pretty basic to work with. The two fuel cap locks are keyed alike (assuming both are original) so if you do want to access the LH tank to restore or replace it, a locksmith should be able to cut a key to fit the barrel on your RH lock. As the RH one is already unlocked, the barrel is easy to remove for this purpose.

If you go down this path you could consider having the door/boot/fuel locks keyed alike, I had mine done - much more user friendly!
 
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Old 05-25-2016, 03:04 AM
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Originally Posted by LnrB
If you do go for your fuel cell you'll nearly triple your fuel capacity. The tanks only hold about 12 gallons, whatever that is in Oz. That can't be a bad thing!
(';')
In OZ that equates to about 45 litres each. If i get the fuel cell custom made I can have any capacity i want but i want to keep some space in the boot/trunk.
 
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Old 05-25-2016, 03:09 AM
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Originally Posted by jagent
These locks are pretty basic to work with. The two fuel cap locks are keyed alike (assuming both are original) so if you do want to access the LH tank to restore or replace it, a locksmith should be able to cut a key to fit the barrel on your RH lock. As the RH one is already unlocked, the barrel is easy to remove for this purpose.

If you go down this path you could consider having the door/boot/fuel locks keyed alike, I had mine done - much more user friendly!
I have already spoken to a locksmith. Just have to get the car to him during business hours so he can do the job. Will make life a lot easier.
 
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Old 05-25-2016, 06:38 AM
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I used the kit from Johnscars to lump my car. It included a
"T" to swap in and replace the selector solenoid. Two legs are of one dimension and the third another??? The instructions include a warning about side hill over flow. So far, mine works just fine.


Roger found a better selector. LnrB's PO apparently included one way flow valves to defeat the side hill issue.


Using both would be an ideal.


Boot space is at a premium. So, a fuel cell to match Jaguar's generous 24 gallons would take up a lot!!


Unless the tank is really bad, I'd think it could be fixed. Carefully!!!!


Up front in the boot, ala XJ40??? Some stuff there possibly no longer needed?


My boot has a lot of stuff, I might thin out. But, it is neatly stowed.
Emergency tool box stays, no question...


Carl
 
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Old 05-26-2016, 04:28 AM
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Originally Posted by JagCad
I used the kit from Johnscars to lump my car. It included a
"T" to swap in and replace the selector solenoid. Two legs are of one dimension and the third another??? The instructions include a warning about side hill over flow. So far, mine works just fine.


Roger found a better selector. LnrB's PO apparently included one way flow valves to defeat the side hill issue.


Using both would be an ideal.


Boot space is at a premium. So, a fuel cell to match Jaguar's generous 24 gallons would take up a lot!!


Unless the tank is really bad, I'd think it could be fixed. Carefully!!!!


Up front in the boot, ala XJ40??? Some stuff there possibly no longer needed?


My boot has a lot of stuff, I might thin out. But, it is neatly stowed.
Emergency tool box stays, no question...


Carl
Thanks Carl, that has given me more food for thought. A "T" piece & non return valves in the fuel lines would work a treat. Actually sounds a lot like some of the work i do plumbing up swimming pool equipment just on a smaller scale.
 
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Old 05-26-2016, 05:29 AM
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Thanks for this thread Rick, I was on the verge of redoing the plumbing in my boot (new rubber basically and keeping the solenoids). While I am there it seems almost silly (given my car is a LUMP anyway so maintaining originality is not an issue) not moving to the T and check valves for simplicity.

Only downside I can imagine is not easily being able to operate of one tank like you are now if a tank rusted through or got damaged. As long as you were aware you could clamp it off to stop it sucking air I guess. Simpler for me as I dont need to think about return lines.
 
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Old 05-26-2016, 09:40 AM
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Clarification.


My post was a bit misleading. I did not use the "T" to mate my tanks.
My fueling remains as it left Brownslane. so far just fine.


But, the inclusion of "one way" valves should resolve a side hill issue
perfectly.


Carl
 
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Old 05-26-2016, 10:21 PM
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Originally Posted by yarpos
Thanks for this thread Rick, I was on the verge of redoing the plumbing in my boot (new rubber basically and keeping the solenoids). While I am there it seems almost silly (given my car is a LUMP anyway so maintaining originality is not an issue) not moving to the T and check valves for simplicity.

Only downside I can imagine is not easily being able to operate of one tank like you are now if a tank rusted through or got damaged. As long as you were aware you could clamp it off to stop it sucking air I guess. Simpler for me as I dont need to think about return lines.
No worries Steve, A lot of information has been shared & i have learned a lot. The people on this forum seem to be a lot more open to sharing information then some others i have been on.
 
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Old 05-26-2016, 11:10 PM
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And, information in here, is Truly *Shared,* as in posted Publicly, and not sent in private emails so that other members never see the answers!
(';')
 
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Old 05-27-2016, 02:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Rickxj6
I have already spoken to a locksmith. Just have to get the car to him during business hours so he can do the job. Will make life a lot easier.
Just back from having the car at the locksmith this arvo.
We have success, i now have a key that fits EVERYTHING, well except for the drivers door that has been screw drivered & is too bad to repair.
Anyone have any ideas where i might find another one?
Second hand is fine as long as it works, they seem to be rarer than rocking horse dung.
 
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Old 05-27-2016, 03:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Rickxj6
Just back from having the car at the locksmith this arvo.
We have success, i now have a key that fits EVERYTHING, well except for the drivers door that has been screw drivered & is too bad to repair.
Anyone have any ideas where i might find another one?
Second hand is fine as long as it works, they seem to be rarer than rocking horse dung.
Try these guys....Jagdaim as usual first.

AJG Spares(Jaguar/Jeep/Landrover)Yellow Pages® | Your Local Australian Business Directory, recently relocated from Brisbane to Esk, very helpful. Used him a lot over the last 15 years with Jeeps, and now the Jag.

Jaguar Parts Melbourne - JagAyre Leading Independent Jaguar Specialist - Jaguar Parts Melbourne Jag Parts Melbourne Jag Repairs Melbourne, Gary also very helpful.

Jaguar Spare Parts Supplier - Jag Prestige Spares- H/H Prestige Spares - Australia's Largest Independant - Used Land Rover Discovery Spare Parts, speak to Phil.
 
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Old 05-27-2016, 03:22 AM
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Thanks Clarke.
Jagdaim have nothing, Jag prestige spares were supposed to cal me back this arvo but didn't.
Will try the other 2 next week.
Just going to enjoy driving it for the weekend.
 


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